I wouldn't wash them, just lay them out and plant as soon as it warms up enough for you to get out. Very doubtful you will get bloom this year, but it is very hard to kill naked lady bulbs. Tulips, as noted before, are a different story. I planted tulips years ago, but when I found out that they don't rebloom after a couple of years, I didn't purchase more. The greenery comes up, & if they don't bloom, I dig them up, divide & replant. Usually I will get some nice blooms for a couple of years, til they need to be divided again. Really not worth the trouble, but I have a hard time tossing plants :)

Ace, my basic spray program only goes to 4 if you use Sevin. I don't need to control fireblight in any of the 100 orchards I manage, I only get small strikes that run their course innocently enough (I don't use full dwarf rootstock). I often have to do more sprays with stonefruit to control BR but on many sites we get adequate control with just 2 sprays if we forsake oil or add it in one of the insecticide sprays. Brown rot control can be maintained most efficiently with Orbit, Indar or Pristine and you can experiment with a single spray in early July to control BR on all your stonefruit. Sometimes this will solve the problem entirely up here. Mark has recently drawn my attention to Assail which I don't think is restricted in NY and he mentioned research that would indicate that it could protect for as long of intervals as Imidan. Thank you Mark! Don, it's crazy that you posted within minutes of my last post here and had some similar but more detailed advice. I wouldn't necessarily recommend using composted manure in large amounts however. If she has a deep rich soil with a lot of organic matter already she might want to go easy on enriching it further. I get the best fruit from soil not overly rich. It really depends on the sight, the species and rootstock as I'm fully aware you know.

I used to live in florida too. The hot sun there and the humidity will be very kind to your sarracenia. They love intense sunlight. The same goes for flytraps. It is probably a good idea to acclimate them a bit first, but I've taken sarracenia straight from shady nurseries to full sun before with no ill effects. In a few weeks, you'll probably see some pretty coloration on the pitchers. Use a 1:1 soil mix of NON-fertilized peat moss and perlite. Never ever use miracle grow soils, potting soils, or fertilizers. They kill plants fast. For planting in pots, use either plastic or glazed. Terra cotta loses water fast and can leach nutrients into the soil (bad). Use only distilled water or the abundant florida rain to keep em wet. Generally, CPs are kept on the tray system, where they are planted into a draining pot which is inside of a deep tray. This way, you keep standing water close to the roots. Now comes the problem. You bought your plant in winter. And since you got it from a hardware store, it probably has no idea what season it is. Sarracenia and flytraps need dormancy as a general rule, but it's probably best if you don't try to force it on them this year. Hopefully it'll survive. I'd recommend only buying tropical plants if you want more this winter. That means mexican butterworts, nepenthes, and tropical sundews. I'm not sure how cold it's gonna get around where you are. If you don't expect significantly low temps, you could probably get away with growing butterworts and sundews outside in partial sun. Nepenthes can be a bit testy, so I'd hold off on them for now. However, I suspect that florida would be a great place to grow lowland nepenthes outside year round.

Have you got a sun porch, sunny vestibule, or garage that you can supply with minimal heat? Grow lights and well-managed cold frames will also work. The tuberous sages like guaranitica can be kept in cool and dark locations that don't experience cold below 25 degrees. However, when they break dormancy, they will need sun and minimal temperatures of 35 degrees.