Thanks for the help, ladies. I KNEW I should have posted here, first! I had ruled out botrytis because our spring has been warm and dry, and there was no blackening anywhere on the plant, even at the base of the stems. However, that might only be one indication of the disease, or maybe that symptom will show up later. In any case, I'll treat it for botrytis and cross my fingers. If I can keep the one stem alive, then, perhaps the roots will build up sufficient energy to make it through next winter. (Sheesh--do prairie gardeners ever stop thinking of winter survival??? It's June, for pity sakes!) Systemic fungicides are not in stores, any more, Sharon, but I've got a litttle bit of Benomyl left from an earlier purchase that I've been saving for when I really need it. I'll try that. Thanks for the encouraging words, Gil. I hope you're right in this case. I know that botrytis isn't necessarily fatal to mature plants, but this one's just a baby. Thanks, again. I knew I could count on the great people in this forum. I don't know why I'd go anywhere else, first. :-) Look at the photos on this web site to see why I want, so much, for this plant to live! Here is a link that might be useful: Photos of P. anemoniflora

Neem breaks down in a couple days. The copper is kind of toxic to everything living. Bayer fungicide kills frogs. If birds eat the frogs it will kill the bird too. The bayer will work but will kill your soil . If your soil is killed you need synthetic fertilizer. I like Jjpeace post about as little chemicals as possible and shovel pruning. If the leaves are wet longer than 6 hours the spores can do the damage. Ohio State horticultural dept says the spores can come from the mulch onto roses. Try using a mulch recommended by the Ohio state University mulch study. There are other mulches better than wood bark . Ohio is close to you. They have done a study on diseases on roses and the wood mulch. Feed your soil. I put down a few inches of yard waste compost. I mulched with shredded leaves the past few years. Half the plant is above ground. It is important to consider the below ground half of the plant also. The soil is 50% solid and the other half is air and water where organisms live that control the ecosystem. Half of the plants are for you.(The Roses). The other half of the plants should be for the soil. (Legumes vetches clovers is ok). Healthy soil and health roots would give you a healthy plant. It is better to grow a healthy plant. I grow soil. Soil grows plants. This forum used to be full of gardeners who used the Lasagna sheet mulch method.

Thank you for your replies. Is leaking pigment common? Does anyone know if it's more likely that this is fungal infection or leaking pigments? I'm not sure if I should segregate it just in case... It is in a sunny window (well, when we have sun, which we haven't in a while) and ~2.5 inches under a T5HO light, so I don't know how much more light I could give it. I think DaveZ is definitely right about it being a picky pain in the butt plant; all of my aeonium are actually. So difficult to tell what they want! Rooftop this plant was labeled as sunburst when I got it and I have another that was labeled as kiwi. From these two and from what I've seen on internet, kiwi seems more green overall with pink edges, whereas sunburst is more "rainbow"-esque with chunks of pink, yellow, white and green more visible throughout.

Thank you all so much for the advice and information. I will follow up the links. The plant is doing better after three weeks in another location. I had it in a container in a full sun spot in our backyard but that garden has poor air circulation as a result of us being surrounded by other houses on three sides. I moved the plant to the side of the house, which has fewer hours of direct sunlight but much better air flow and the plant is looking much better. I have fewer infected leaves, new leaves and new buds. I thought I was going to have to get rid of the plant eventually but I feel more hopeful now from the comments about helping it to ride out this very damp weather. The advice about learning which varieties will thrive in my area is spot on. I was about to buy more hybrid teas but after the experience with the Olympiad, I got an Apricot Drift Rose instead for its disease resistance and it seems to be doing very well: lots of glossy, dark leaves and adorable, fragrant little blooms. It looks great in a large urn container next to my front door. I'm renting, hence the containers. If anyone is willing to share what varieties they've had success with in Toronto, I'd be grateful.