Thought I'd also said: I'm leaning toward 'Prince of orange' but the leaves I see in others' pics are usually connected to the petiole at their base, as are the leaves on the cutting from the top pic above. I planted a bare section of stem and those leaves are all new from the past few months. The more mature leaves in the last pic are much more heart-shaped. That pot has 2 original growth tips with hard woody stems of what I was told used to be a huge vine too big to take inside for winter. (You'd think the owner of a garden center would know to make a bunch of new plants from cuttings to have ready for sale in the spring...?) Also do not see any 'POO' plants with maroon/burgundy leaves, just orange or green. Not sure if it's a species plant or a breeder's cultivar. The leaves are very thick and smooth. What about 'Black Cardinal', 'Red Emerald', 'Imperial red'? Are these all orange inside?

Hi PB, Thx for asking, here goes ... for Suggestions, pls. go to front of Hoya Forum, top of its page, directly under the Green GW Banner, in the upper left, you'll see "Other Forums", click there. Once there, go down the left hand page of listings, alphabetically, in the S section you should see "Suggestions". I just figured out last wk where to go now to edit one's Member Page, anybody else having this problem (my EM link was gone, GW friends were telling me). Go back out to the front of the Forum, top of the page & directly on top, just to the right of the largely lettered "Garden Web", you'll see a much smaller "Member Profile" or something like that &/or "Log Out". Important note, when editing one's member page, one must click on either Submit or Save when done (forgotten the wording). If you just hit your Return or Enter key to activate, it won't update the info, (this dork girl found that out the hard way, several times)! OK, now no one has anymore excuse not to do as I'm asking ;>) Thanks everybody! (PG) Karen

@fauguy - I live in NE Fort Lauderdale, zip code 33308. After testing the water from my kitchen tap with a Sofchek water hardness test strip I picked up at the shop where I purchased my Miele DW supplies (a vacuum shop at Commercial & 18th Ave.), I set my DW settings to 15 gpg. If I end up having a Miele tech out here at any point, I will ask them to recheck the water hardness. Our DW allows me to set the water hardness at the precise setting, as opposed to setting based on ranges. Unfortunately, I don't have much confidence in information obtained from my local water utility department; that's why I tested the water hardness myself. BTW, I spent time on the phone today with one of the founders of NY Minute, the company I booked based on your excellent recommendation. In my case, the installers left much to be desired. The lead installer spoke only broken English and communicating with him was a challenge. I put down layers of beach towels on the floor surrounding my dishwasher and the kitchen sink, yet the lead installer repeatedly ignored my requests to set his wrench, drill, etc. on the towels, and I repeatedly heard him dropping his tools onto the floor. As a result, I found multiple areas of damage (divets) in the marble flooring when they finished. Additionally, I just discovered that it appears I am missing two pieces of my dishwasher installation. Earlier today when I phoned Miele tech support to ask about how to tell when a cycle was complete, I learned that in addition to the audible setting (which had been disabled when our DW was installed) there should be a "prism" mounted to the underside of the granite counter, just above the Miele control panel on the DW, that serves to reflect the red indicator light that illuminates and flashes when a cycle has completed. According to the Miele tech, this prism is shipped in the box with the DW and comes with a corresponding stainless steel frame. Both pieces are to be attached by the installer. NY Minute's install team did not install, discuss, or leave me any such parts. Although my keyword search of the PDF manual does not indicate any matches for "prism," I discussed this with NYM today and also have a call in to the Miele Territory Manager who handles Miele issues for the dealer from whom we purchased our DW (FL Builder Appliances).

We've found a solution to the problem. We're keeping the existing door (undamaged) and the window contracting company is repairing the minor rot damage on the jam. It's the most cost effective solution and won't delay interior or exterior work. Quite happy about this! Here's what I wrote on my thread in the kitchen forum: After much discussion and research, we're keeping the existing kitchen door and addressing the jam rot only. I talked to a supplier about purchasing a custom made new rot resistant jam for the TT door (their old doors were an inch taller than all other brands). And then I talked to the owner of the window contracting company who suggested that since the rot was minimal, another option was to remove the affected wood, fill with epoxy and sand it smooth. Once painted, we'll never know that it was damaged and there would be no reason for further damage to occur (the leak that caused the rot happened years ago and has since been addressed). This is a cost effective solution that won't delay the exterior or interior work so we're quite happy about it. This company has an excellent rep (BBB, contractor's board, Angie's List, Yelp, etc, plus two suppliers told us that, hands down, this is *the* company to work with. Their work is excellent). They are conscientious about making sure that all installs are to code and won't cause water issues down the road. The amount of flashing, wrapping, etc that they are adding to our windows and doors is more than twice what our initial install had 21 yrs ago. You should have heard them mumbling about how poorly the house was flashed and how amazed they are that they haven't uncovered any dry rot (so thankful for that but it could have been a different story if we hadn't replaced the failed LP siding when we did.). Thanks to everyone who helped me figure this out!