I know I look small but I did all but 5 all by myself.. the rest I got help from a few neighbors.. I have two cherrys too, one yoshino which bloomed and the other a weeping which I got no flowers at all ;( pond is almost done.. not sure why my guestbook doesnt work, it allows users to add entries but they dont save.. will call them tomorrow.. My big sagos are yellowing a bit.. not sure why, from the side view you cant tell but from overhead they are yellowing.. will fertilize again, but once they turn colors you cant reverse it.. the big ones I got in my front yard I got for free.. over 600$ value.. just had to rent the truck and do the labor to remove them.. All my small ones are sending up new fronds which is always a treat as it looks so amazing... have three and all are sending up new fronds now.., will be sure to protect them this winter as I did not last winter..

My first thought is actually nitrogen deficiency just as a reminder once again: providing nitrogen after August 1st can result in the death of a tree next year because the wood could go into winter without having "hardened off" is the term used and thus the wood/bark and buds for leaf growth as well as branch growth) would be affected. Think of Nitrogen this way: Heavy amounts will certainly green up your tree (this is what lawn company's do to make a lot of money - they fertilize as often as up to every two weeks with a lot of "liquid applications") but, in order to keep the leaves green, they are as the first responder notes, using too much nitrogen while the probelm most-likely is occuring in that the uptake of other "trace minerals" isn't quite happening. Chlorosis can be ruled out immediately upon examination of your photos. Lou is 100% right that you have the wrong tree. The correction of soil alkalinity (nitrogen boosts as to temporarily-only correct the problem (nitrogen is a significant by-product of pelletized Sulphur ("pelletized" is the old farm word I know) and of course Sulphur helps to aid in the recovery of chlorosis/chloratic symptoms but once again, you're dealing with "minerals and in all forms really as these are the building blocks for all living things." Minerals of course are also found in water... There's a lot to break down in this type of question to come to a logical answer, but still one that's a guess at best. The "Green Light" products offered are 'organic' however Sulphur while it seems and I did'nt know this as actually "inorganic" - yet the Department of Agriculture deems it as "organic" , or at least that's how I'm interpreting Lou's words currently along with a lot of other erroneous information I've either learned reading or from previous bosses, etc-. I used to spray mainly fruit trees with an organic firm and we used "liquid copper" as well as "Liquid Sulphur." And I recall my boss mentioning that the USDA has deemed these to be, "organic." Those words always stuck in my mind even though I was getting this "organic" crap all over my body, in my skin, and in my lungs. Not pretty folks. I'll let Lou sort this one out for me as I now don't understand precisely his comment. I do believe that he is trying to make a distinction among Sulphur in bottle or hard form, versus "natural formation of Sulphur" derived from decayed mulch. Is this right Lou? Overwatering can also be ruled out in my opinion because this produces the outside of a leaf to brown-up. In this person's case, large patches are observed. I still stick to my guns and say that the splotchy-burning is a reult of drought and that your tree is suffering from a lack of trace minerals which could include nitrogen. Do keep it watered once a week for a good while and if you have time, let it almost dry between waterings. Continue this schedule until this time next year at a minimum if you're going to be stubborn by keeping this tree. It's not a hopeless case, but it is something you'll need to continue addressing. Regards, Dax

Beng: Sadly, as previous posters have indicated, there is NO preventative or treatment for EY. There may be some pesticides available to control the vector (white banded elm leaf hopper?) but as the tree matures, I would think that would become increasingly prohibitive. D.C. elms and they are planting quuite a number of them, could be in jeapardy since EY is supposed to be spreading in that direction. The legacy elms at Penn State are about to be subjected to an onslaught, as well. Alden Townsend, who conducted the elm innoculation studies for the National Arboretum, posted a disclaimer on the web shortly after the release of Valley Forge and New Harmony stating that all american elm selections involved in his study did show susceptibility to EY in the lab. I would be curious to see if in fact Princeton did show resistance, although I would probably not plant in area where EY was known to exist. I don't believe EY as as widespread and systemic as ded and tends to be spotty. I hope this isn't a major outbreak.

Are you watering near the trunk?. It needs to be watered away from the trunk at the area around the edge of the branches. Also in summer (usually in July )when it hits 100+ temps elm goes into heat stres and few leaves turn yellow and drop off, its normal. Search this forum by keyword "elm" you will see lot of posts regarding yellow leaves.