ravenh2001: I'm afraid it is, and that's all they ever color up as they ripen in the worst of our heat (late September). I got the cutting from a tree in the mountains and confirmed the variety, and as you'd expect the quality is much better up there. Odd to think that Northern Spy would be low-chill, but they're very reliable here and get huge. You're probably used to seeing it with red striping and blush. At this stage in the photo about half of them will be brown and rotting on the inside, with just about a 1/4" of firm flesh under the skin to keep the shape. On the other hand, the Bramley tree next to it will have firm, crisp, sweet/tart juicy apples that look much like the ones from a cold climate.

The phenomenon that you are witnessing is very real and can be an important determinant in the cold hardiness of grafted Asian persimmon trees. I have reada couple of anecdotal accounts of this and see it in my orchard on a yearly basis - some American persimmon trees break dormancy several weeks later than others and do this consistently from year to year. I have a tree from EL that consistently shows some frost damage on the leaves after budbreak during a normal year; this year the tree leafed out earlier than the others and is now toast after a 25F exposure. Most of the other trees I grafted myself onto rootstock that I know to be late in breaking dormancy and none of these show any foliage damage. The latest breaking American persimmons have in my experience been from the Morris Burton lineage and these are just now showing the earliest signs of breaking bud.

Sunnibel7 im in a colder zone but have similar circumstance with mine stored in attached garage. They break dormacy earlier because when it just starts to get warmer out the garage temps get much warmer and wake up my trees. Worry about both day and night temps, i bring mine out when the temp is at least 50 out, then at night they get wheeled back in garage its just to cold and windy in early spring. When night temps start to match or exceed the 50 degree mark then i leave them outdoors. Mine are elder trees. Yours as stated seem very young maybe a season or 2 old? My suggestion to you would be leave it by window and dont try to make it stay dormant or slow it down its a young plant and there usually pretty vibrant at that age. When the weather starts to get warm bring it outdoors for a while then back in at night, do this for a while till the night temps do not drop so drastically, little by little is best. Perhaps a 60 degree minimum daytime temp is good to start with then back indoors at night, i bring mine out like i said at 50 but there older . You said this Also, I boldly root trimmed my Negronne after reading much info. here on the subject! (Scary!)I read that the tree should now be "secured to the pot" to allow the fine roots to grow without breakage... Ok, how old is your negronne? Is it in its final pot size, I ask this as one usually does not root prune but simply pots up plant into bigger pot then when plant reaches final pot size they worry about root pruning in that pot, well either case after root prunning when you repot the plant it should not need support, only time i use support is for a smaller plants trunk to grow straight such as something like a wooden dowel or similar. I hope this helps you some. Best Luck Martin

You'll want to prolong the dormancy period as long as possible until outside conditions will support strong, healthy growth. Keep the trees as cool as possible and water just enough to give the root-zone just a little moisture. Keep them dark and cool until at least mid-April. Do not let brebas form, or they will delay the onset of main-crop figs. If possible, keep the basement cooler, and, darker. Mid-January is no time for figs to start growing. Figs that break dormancy too soon will just become weak. You need to control this, or you'll be in for a fight each year to keep these trees healthy and robust. This forum has all the information that you will need to know in order to solve this problem, you'll just have to find a way to duplicate the recommended solutions. Maybe, if the trees are small enough and in containers, they can be stored in the unheated garage of a neighbor, or friend? Hope this helps. Wishing you the best. BronxFigs