Take a look at Hamamelis.

Good suggestion, don't hear that one come up to often.

Do you know of any that are more profuse and vivid in color...realiably?

I have Vernal Witchhazel (considered early season bloomer) and the color is quite vivid/interesting upclose but 20' away you can barely tell its blooming.

I'm only familiar with H. virginiana and have never tried the hybrids (Hamamelis x intermedia), which are supposedly ornamentally superior and have fragrance to boot. You're at least a full zone warmer and might be worth a try. H. virginiana is fairly common understory tree up here and I've seen them growing wild with Ostrya & Carpinus. Nifty little trees.

Funny you mention Ostrya and Carpinus...I have those on my list to pruchase. If I don't find other late blooming trees I will stick with those choices.

Have you seen the hops on the Ostrya? I can find close-ups but I wonder how ornamental they look from about 15' away? Hmmm...wonder how long they last too (in the light color stage)....gotta do some more digging.

fragrant autumn clematis ... peniculata maybe

just stunning

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

I still need to add a clematis...I have the perfect spot.

How about late season bloomers for Trees?

Franklinia and Stewartia both bloom in late summer/early autumn, around the same time as the Heptacodium. Both are Zone 5, although I don't know if Milwaukee would be pushing it for either of these. Microclimate would make a difference, I suppose. Both have white, single camelia-like flowers 2-3 inches across, and both have nice foliage as well.

Magnolia virginiana, Sweetbay Magnolia, is hardy through Zone 5. Mine blooms in little spurts from early June through early October, little white magnolias that are lemon scented and about 3 inches across. The foliage is nice, too, and turns a good, coppery color in late fall before it drops.

I have two other really "out there" suggestions for the REALLY adventurous Zone 5 person, but only if you are willing to take some fairly extraordinary measures to do winter protection. They are Southern Magnolia, M. grandiflora and 'E.H. Wilson Silktree', which is Albizia 'E.H. Wilson' -- both of them are really Zone 6 or warmer, but I have both here in SE Michigan. I protect the Magnolias with a shelter of stacked leaf bags, and they generally still has moderate winterburn and often partially defoliates, but regenerates quickly and generally has the most exquisite, fragrant white blooms from June to late September, just a few at a time, but worth it. I have three of the hardiest cultivars, Edith Bogue, Bracken's Brown Beauty, and Little Gem.

The silktree blooms in August and September. I don't protect this one, and it does suffer some dieback in colder winters, but also grows back very quickly. I think even if it died

I've heard of Franklinia and Stewartia but never looked much into them as they are not available around here.

The Franklinia may be tough as I have a heavier soil.

Stewartia pseudocamellia looks promising.

I'm getting conflicting info though. Most mail order sites list it -10 to -15. But I've read they are hardy to -25.

Some sites say acidic soil is a must, others say they still perform in neutral soils.

Stewartia (Stuartia?) might--might!--be hardier than the z5/6 it's normally listed. I've been growing one for a few years now with no dieback whatsoever, including last winter, which was very tough on a lot of woody plants. It hasn't flowered yet (didn't know it was a late bloomer), but after a few years of almost no top growth, it put on about 12" this year. I also know of one in the Twin Cities area that has done well for several years now and has flowered. I've yet to see Franklinia successfully grown in the upper midwest. Often tried, but with little or no success. I'd start with the Stewartia.

Looks like you've had some success, I think I'm going to give this one a shot. The bark is extremely impressive and would look fantastic by my entry way.

Does it matter which mail order I go with in regards to its regional location? I figure I purchase from a zone 5 company but not sure if that matters.

Stewartia is on my must try list for Minneapolis. Maybe I will get around to ordering one this year since I cannot find one locally. I, too, have seen a specimen in a Minneapolis suburb that was beautiful and was about 15 years old so has seen some tough winters.

What you have to be careful with when mail ordering from a warmer climate, especially in the spring, is frost. A plant grown in the south or west is perfectly hardy here, but may be in a more advanced stage of growth in late April/early May and may not tolerate a frost. I usually have my mail order plants (green, not dormant or bareroot) delivered around Mother's Day and keep an eye on the forcast. I have seen some nursery stock from a large west coast grower delivered in the spring and then get frost damage here. They were spruce trees which are perfectly hardy. They had already started to push new growth while the local spruce tree's buds were still swelling.

"How about late season bloomers for Trees?"

I'm surprised no one has mentioned pagodatree or goldenraintree. Neither are favorites of mine, but they do offer late season flowers. There may be some hardiness issues with these 2 species in WI (occasional dieback & cankering can occur in Z5 or lower).

An unusual species with late bloom is Poliothyrsis. I tried growing it here in SE Michigan, but after 3 seasons of good growth (and a few blooms) it was completely killed last winter. It was planted in an exposed location however; perhaps it would survive OK in a protected location. Anyone grown this species successfully in Z5 or lower?

I'll cast another vote for sweetbay magnolia - though it's pretty slow growing in the north, it's still very hardy and adaptable.

My Stewartia pseudocamellia is going into its 4th winter. Bloomed last year (2008) for the first time, didn't bloom this year. Stands about 4 feet now and the worst temp it has seen was -17F. Got it from Greer Gardens. If you get one, protect it from rabbits in winter. I had one five years ago that the fur rats cut down to a stump.

tj

Speaking of fur rats that are on a rampage right now!

Bee Bee tree. Evodia danielii (tetra... danielii).

On the Stewartia's, I'd try species (both for trial) pseudocamellia and monodelpha. Both are extremely heat tolerant and you're going to need to plant both in either a low area where winds won't prevail as much or in a protected situation among trees/buildings/etc-. Watch the watering requirements extremely closely and mulch very well.

Wolfe's or Wolf's Crossing Nursery sells the Bee Bee tree in all kinds of sizes. There's also one other internet source for this tree but I recall it being very difficult to locate one. It's a hell of a tree. Quite important for bee's when other plants aren't blooming. Fragrant jasmine star-shaped flowers... read up, you'll probably like it a lot.

Dax

Hibiscus syriacus is a late summer bloomer. Would it be hardy in your area? Fuchsias bloom late in my garden but would have to be brought under cover in the winter.

These look the most promising so far...
Evodia danielii
Stewartia pseudocamellia

I have space for (2) fussy trees...or lets call it a protected location.

I'm debating between Acer palmatum, Cornus kousa, Acer pseudosieboldianum and now the two listed above.

I was considering Sweetbay Magnolia but it seams to have a very open habit with limited flowering capabilites (or hidden by the foilage) in our area.

Burlap protection should be a must for Stewartia for several years or any other shrub/tree with either: small root-systems when planted, or, tree/shrubs that would benefit greatly from setting some deep roots for 2-3 years... being on the verge of cold-hardiness. It's extremely important and I cannot emphasize it enough. Or tomato cages with poly surrounding the north and west/east side as well but leaving a portion open for southern heat and to ventilate. Any such system will work just fine, it's just that burlap is the universal "idea." And don't forget the mulch... same goes for supplemental watering for a minimum of a year if not, two. You're insuring you've done everything possible from the very beginning. The answer to your question about source of stock is that it's actually more important where the seed was collected, or the place of origin of (grafted) trees. In your city, climate, etc-, purchase your hardwood plants to be delivered dormant and at mid-march. If the ground is frozen in mid-march, delay the shipping. Of course if you're purchasing large balled/burlapped dug plants, then it's always going to be helpful to know they survived within your own climate. That's money in the bank. However you must always remember that plants dug growing in the earth is a gambling game because it may have a root-system not-clearly-visible that is junk. Especially those grown in clay soils. I've lost more stock in my life purchasing dug then burlapped plants than ever from plants grown in containers. Get in those root-systems and untangle them and re-plant in your native soil just as you would plant a bare-root tree. It's a must, now-a-days, unfortunately...

Take care, good luck.

Dax

Are you saying you lost more B&B plants than container plants?

This location is protected completly from all northern and western exposure...even some southern.

Do the mail order companies usually know where they get their seed?

First question: absolutely yes. Lack of fibrous roots is the downfall.

Last question: Seed providence can be very beneficial when attempting to grow borderline plants. Every now and then a horse such as Secretariat comes along, that's my example. On a smaller yet comparable scale, many examples can be noted:
Cedrus deodara "Carl Fuch's Selections" - 'Polar Winter', 'Eisregren', etc-. These are all capable of lifetime survival in zone 5. I had several other comparable hardiness species in mind yesterday but I'm blanking right now. Nevertheless, seed origin or wood for grafting purposes makes all the difference in the world of bringing plants from other climates which will have much better acclimation to the climate of your own. I call it in my own terms, "Comparing Climates."

The guys in Oregon can grow nursery stock so quickly it's mind-boggling. They do use Rootmaker type products with heavy fertilizers for a few 6 months to get the seedlings going and then they move them into the field and continue to juice em while transplanting them for several years prior to the last field digging. What I can grow here in the same amount of time might be 4" tall when their seedlings come to me for a buck .39 at a foot or more depending upon the species..........

Getting plants established in zone 5.....you're going to need to plant early spring (not fall ever) and you job is to babysit it. It's the same for grafting trees. My job is to babysit them. There's really no difference between what you're going to do than what I do, I'm just in a greenhouse until the last frost. Pay attention to weather and cover your tender shrubs, too, as needed... if they've already broken dormancy.

Hope you have a better understanding of this.

Dax

Re: Evodia (= Tetradium = Euodia):

I like this tree, but my observation has been that it isn't very "happy" in Z5 or lower, unless sited in a relatively warm, protected location. Seems to like plenty of summer warmth. Some seed sources may be hardier than others. I planted 2 small Evodia's a few years ago - both had new foliage damaged every year by late spring frosts. One was eventually killed by ambrosia beetles. I removed the other due to the intolerance to frost/freeze damage. On the other hand, the larger trees I've seen do seem to bounce back from the frost damage very well. The late season seed clusters are certainly attractive. The foliage is attractive to giant swallowtail butterflies.

Everyone thanks for the good suggestions.

So if I'm trying to decide between Evodia danielii
and Stewartia pseudocamellia which one would you suggest for zone 5?

Will be protected from west and north exposure. We have cold dry winds in the winter...but again those winds are mostly blocked.

Toss up between which tree might be less fussy. I plant to pair the selection with a purple leafed JM and Cornus kousa 'Wolf Eyes'

Suggestion: Acer japonicum 'Ruby'.
I'd plant the Tetradium if you can accomodate a tree that's going to become large. Drawing butterflies/(bees) and a very late bloom is pretty much the deal sealer.
You'll get red (red/orage) fall color with the Maple and with the 'Wolf Eyes' and plain yellow from a tetradium; otherwise a Stewartia will only add more reds/oranges.

Dax

Merry Christmas y'all.

"...otherwise a Stewartia will only add more reds/oranges."

Dax, you make it sound so mundane. ;) The fall color can be spectacular, rivaling that of our native Sugar Maple. If you throw in the exquisite bark, this tree is about as good as it gets. I can't think of a more worthy tree for that special protected site that those of us in the north covet.

Indeed, indeed, it was a tough decision...

Dax