Hi Julie and welcome to the forum, I hope you enjoy it here. You will be able to grow adeniums (or DR's as we also refer to them here) in your area just as we here in the equally less favourable climes of the chilly UK..we are struggling to get more than one day in a row of double digits C temps at the mo!! Its diabolical, again, coldest spring for 30yrs. Your plants may not be as big, floriferous or as impressive as those grown in hotter areas, but they will grow. One suggestion is to scroll through the posts then put the user name of someone in similar areas into the search facility below and up will sprout their particular threads, read away and gain info from us that way maybe? I can say that if you grow from seeds, they will germinate for you just as quick as for those sown in Thailand for eg, just use a boiler cupboard or propagator to get them going. Older seedlings and plants need as much sun and fresh air as we can give them, mine move from inside the living room to the g/house on warm days, back again at night, or just from window to window following the sun around the rooms. Its hard to write all that you wil need to know....gritty mix is a MUST wherever you live, threads on here detail the recipe for it, but adapt it with what you can buy locally, just make sure they never stay wet and cold. Hope this helps. Gill, from the extremely less than tropical UK!!

Here in the north, it is, of course, strictly an annual. But, from seed started indoors about 8 weeks ahead of transplant at your last frost date or just a bit before, you can still get impressive growth in good, rich, well-drained soil with a lot of watering and fertilization. Six feet of growth with considerable branching is not out of the question at all, assuming you have about a 5 month growing season outdoors. I personally enjoy citriodora, cinerea, and globbulus as the fastest growers. Some of the less common types can be fun, too, but frankly, I've never had much luck discerning the scents claimed for some of the kinds -- nicholii is claimed to smell like peppermint, for example, but frankly, it just smells like Eucalyptus. For best results starting seeds, use grow lights and heat mats. One good source for a couple of the species is Sandy Mountain Herb Farm in Alabama. They carry citriodora and globulus. Dennis SE Michigan

Randy, I would be happy to be the first to respond, mi amigo. First let me say thank you for this post. I think it may be up to the few and proud of us to revitalize this forum, and get some great conversations started. It's been a little... slow in the past. Let me get the question I cannot speak to out of the way first: I have never grown P. edulis indoors, or protected in any way for that matter. I have P. edulis 'Fredrick' out in the open with no protection in a large pot, and it overwinters with just a little damage. It comes back fine, and is growing like a beast right now. I hope to soon be growing P. edulis 'Nancy Garrison' as well, (thanks to you), as I have read that it is even better at frost tolerance. Next, anything I have ever taken indoors has suffered from the dryness associated with central heat, a wood burning stove, and watering difficulty indoors. This year I plan to make a space in my garage dedicated to Passifloras with a timed "grow-light" like the pot-growers use. I have too many that will need some sort of protection to let them wither in the winter. Now, on that same note, even though I plan on protecting some this year, we also always test our limits. We are in zone denial. Dozens, maybe hundreds of plants that should not live here, we "force" to live here. Sometimes that means we have to get creative sometime we have to get Very creative. For instance, (though no one seems to have ever heard of this spectacular plant), we grow Mackaya bella outdoors and it has no issues whatsoever. Our Aphelandra squarrosa lost all his leaves in the same pot, (though heÂs fine now). There are countless others On to the Passifloras, the subject you actually posted about. First, let me tell you our climatic conditions, (I almost typed climactic that would have been a bit Freudian). In the last 10 years, our lowest temp was 19 degrees. Usually, in winter we get about 12 -16 days of sub-32 degrees, with our lowest night normally about 23/24. We almost never get snow, maybe once per decade for a couple of hours. Our only rain comes in the winter months, most heavily in Dec and Jan. If you plan a spring, summer or fall BBQ, you can count on it. No chance of the game being called here. We almost donÂt have a spring, and barely a fall. Tuesday the trees have leaves and Wednesday they donÂt. Our summers can be brutal. We just had 5 days in a row triple digits two of them were 107 and 108. ItÂs also very dry think desert. Thankfully, we have misters, drippers, sprinklers, et cetera, or the only thing we would grow would be California natives... yuck! So, let me think We have no trouble growing P. citrina in the ground, though it is supposed to like 45 degrees minimum. Oh man, this is going to be hard we have too many. How about this: In Ulmer and MacdougalÂs book, (if you donÂt have it, you either know too much to be reading this or if you are reading this, you seriously need to buy it. Go here: http://www.amazon.com/Passiflora-Passionflowers-World-Torsten-Ulmer/dp/0881926485/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1246590216&sr=8-1), if they state the minimum temperatures for a species or hybrid to live to 5 or lower degrees Celcius, I can grow it outdoors. If it states 7 to 9 degrees C, I need to protect it somehow, be it mulch, overhead cover, 3-wall patio cover, et cetera. If it states 10 or even higher, (for the most part, though there are exceptions), I will most likely have trouble, and at the very least I need to bring it indoors or into the garage space I am making this year. Actually, I am planning on putting my "7+ degree" plants in there this winter also, so they have much less stress, and flourish faster. I am tired of having plants take till May to start growing again. Randy, and anyone else who happens to read this, I am sorry that I cannot give you a full list. This is the best I can do at the moment. IÂm a bad plant journal guy P. mooreana is one that should definitely not have survived with the slight overhead protection we gave it. It has been blooming one flower per day for a week or so right now, and smells fantastic! Another that surprised us was P. herbertiana, which should not make it out in the cold. We had a tiny cutting, (which is supposed to be very hard to do Crystal is the "rooting queen"), out in the open, no protection whatsoever last year, and it made it fine. It is growing great right now. P. ÂCoral Sea grows rampant in our cold and heat, though it rarely blooms. ItÂs a massive vine. It is supposed to only like it up to 86 or so, and doesnÂt like it below freezing. No problems here. I am planning on making this a grafting root-stock for less heat-hardy Passies. But, one other fairly non-relatable, (due to rarity) Passiflora that I can speak on is the P. umbilicata x P. tucumanensis. This is weird. It is the same cross, (and probably a seedling from the same fruit from Henk), as P. ÂJuttaÂ. Mine is slightly different as it has two full rows of coronal filaments. Both parents are supposed to be extremely cold tolerant, but not heat tolerant at all. Mine grows and blooms in the spring and fall, with only some bud-drop and a few month bloom hiatus in the hottest summer months. It still does quite well, with very little if any damage. Granted, cuttings of it have died in the summer, but that may have been my fault. ;-) IÂm sure there are more, but my mind fails me I will have to consult Crystal later and post again. Eric

BUMP Plant out time is here. I like the older threads rather than starting a new thread. There are already some useful information there. This thread dates back to 2011. Since then there has been quite some changes in container growing medium concept. In the past MG potting (and similar brands) used to be the potting soil option. They are mostly pet moss based. Al (Tapla) has made a significant contribution by developing and introducing 5-1-1 mix, It is 5 parts pine/fir bark fine , 1 part peat moss and 1 part perlite. The amount of peat moss really depends on the structure of the pine bark one uses. I, myself, get finer pine bark that does not need any peat moss. So I skip PM and instead I add DE (floor dry) for better moisture retention. DE also facilitates drainage after it is saturated. I have experimented and found out that one pound of dry DE absorbs one pound of water. So my 5-1-1 is 5 parts pine bark, 1 part DE and 1 part perlite. ABOUT CONTAINER SIZE As mentioned bigger pot is better. That is especially true if you have a long growing season, like in CA and FL where growing season can be 8 to 9 months. But in our PNW practical pepper growing season is about 5 months. Last year I used pots ranging from 2.5 to 5 gallons. Most did ok. This year I will use no smaller than 4 gallon nursery pots (= 5 gallon liquid). I got some of those for free from a landscaping crew in my neighborhood.. I also got reusable grocery shopping bags which also are 4 gallons in volume. I prefer these 4 gallon containers over the 5 gallon HD /Lowes buckets which are not very nice looking. Those buckets actually hold no more than 4 dry gallons. Are you ready to pot up ? Seysonn