cornus are extremely variable in my z5 .... beyond the natives ...

all acer are suspect for me .. because i grow hosta under trees ...

when you list multiples.. like the malus/crabs .. are they all on your list??? ... opt for disease resistant, fer sure ...

the buckeye is o'neils.. not mc'neills ...

magnolia is also variable .... i only do star and saucer ... failed on some yellows ...

JMap's are also variable.. winter wind is no friend .. and i bet your new lot is going to have wind ...

when you are working on the backbone.. i would stay away from the pricier ... foo foo stuff .. and go for volume ... in a few years.. then start adding the foo ...

ken

Likely to plant one cultivar.

This is what I already have on order. These are all small 5 gal. trees.

Acer saccharum
Aesculus Pavia
Aesculus 'Autumn Splendor'
Carpinus caroliniana
Cercidiphyllum japonicum
Cercis canadensis
Cornus kousa
Liriodendron tulipifera
Magnolia 'Jane'
Nyssa sylvatica
Ostrya virginiana
Quercus bicolor
Quercus ellipsoidalis
Taxodium distichum

"Can someone help widdle down this list?"

Really? Are you sure?!

;-)

Oh, spelling errors...not something to piddle over.
;-)

tj

Can you clarify if you still need someone to widdle on your list?

If you instead need someone to whittle down the list, I'd imagine that would be pretty easy to do simply by crossing off what you can't find, can't find locally or if those two don't work then cross off the ones that are the most expensive or don't look so great.

You've got a list of fine trees... some of those I've never even heard of... but right tree in the right place as the old saying goes.

widdle, piddle, schmiddle, tiddle...its all relative. Now that you guys got that out of your system any suggestions?lol? I look for that spell checker icon everytime but can't seem to find it.

gg, your suggestion seems quite logical but thats the approach I took at my last home. I ended up planting many trees that I'd consider average because of that. But in the end odds are your suggestion will reign supreme. I already listed everything out based on cost and availability, lol.

I like where Ken was going with his post.

I just took Norwegian Sunset Maple off the list due to its reported dieback and variable fall color in my area.

Could you indicate which ones you consider to be trees? I think of several of those more as shrubs, which would allow you to plant them with a clear conscience and trim your list down a bit. e.g.the lilac. Of the others many will not grow forest size, but remain relatively small e.g. Acer palmatum, Cornus mas, Cercis, Magnolia 'Jane' etc. So the number of REAL trees is not as big as it looks from the list.

widdle, piddle, schmiddle, tiddle...its all relative.

===>>> oh gawd.. now his relatives ...

ok.. its out of my system ...

i seem to recognize some of the plants i post pics of.. which might be near impossible to find in the short term .. so those can be transferred to future dream lists .... like the var oak, var. maple

the prunus mackii is a horrible surface rooter ... if that matters to you ... otherwise.. pretty cool for a green tree ...

ken

It's not what you got.
It's what you do with it.

I discovered a while back that it's possible to have a very impressive garden with commonplace plants if they are arranged tastefully and sensibly.

The folks that have these collections of super rare trees, like the people with these itty bitty conifers, never seem to have something that I regard as important; shade.

And the other expensive plants like Japanese maple collections and Japanese Stewartia... to each their own... I'd rather not worry about the expensive plants getting eaten, frozen or roasted. I plant the stuff that's proven so I can enjoy the benefits trees provide in as little time possible. And with as few problems as possible and without having to irrigate or fertilize.

Another nice thing about that attitude is when you move, you don't fret so much about the new owners of your last home removing rare or valuable trees.

hi flora uk,
All plants will be strategically placed (at least I'll try). Anything you can limb up and walk under to a point, I'd consider a tree. There are a couple smaller trees I have on the list will cap out at 10-15' in my area.

ken,
several plants are now on a mail order list that I'll probably look at getting later down the road. Some are actually available around here (ie varigated norway maple).

gg,
any proven plants you'd recommend on the list (or maybe something I missed)?

The common ground I see here is that I should go for volume, proven, classic, native, etc. to start with.

The first year is always an ambitious and exciting year...just need a little direction so I can remain focused!

Whether something is proven depends on your location and variables such as soil (pH, moisuture, compaction, texture, drainage, overall area), sunlight, pollution and precipitation.

The place that I turn to to ask their opinions on trees, in this order:
1. Certified arborists
Because they're the ones diagnosing the problems and making recommendations
2. Local agricultural or university extension
3. Tree planting groups or committees that you may have in your area. Sometimes these groups publish information on what trees they use in the area that have urban tolerance.

So, I'm not qualified to tell you what's proven in your local area.

And I'm not saying not to plant some rare or unique stuff or exotics. I've just found that after the second or third one gets eaten and you can't replace it, the excitement quickly fades away.

If you've just moved into a new home, I would suggest that you first assess and address any needs that you have with the landscape. Take some time to evaluate privacy, shade, wind and drainage problems. Then about a year or two after you move in, get your basic landscape in place if it isn't already. Then once that is started, then knock yourself out with the rare or unproven stuff if you so desire.

Some people are content with an acre of conifers that won't get above 5' in their lifetime. Others collect palms or cacti or fruit trees or roses. I guess I have less sophisticated wants. I'd be happy with deep shade, a couple of patios, a fire pit, some water features and little to no grass.

I'd cut these off the list:

Acer x 'Keithsform' (Norwegian Sunset) - Norway Maple parentage, so may prove invasive
Fagus sylvatica .... (or TriColor) - burns badly in summer heat, leaves distorted, so looks diseased
Quercus robur 'Variegata' - yukky
Varigated Norway Maple - invasive

Name check:
"Evodia daniellii" - formerly correctly Euodia daniellii; but now Tetradium daniellii

Resin

I second that.
I'm not a fan of variegated anything. And I'm not a fan of platanoides.

Autumn brilliance serviceberry is a nice tree but high maintenance. Lots of pruning. Lots of suckers. I'd consider using them in groupings sort of far away from anything. I have one as a specimen and I would do-over if I could.

hi gg,
I should have said I will be responsible for meeting the cultural requirements of a particular tree. This is the best place (one of) to promote diversity and share experiences regarding various species that may not be otherwise planted in an area because its not proven.
If I can't get a location to meet it, I'll cut it off the list (unless I really want it and willing to take a risk). I've talked to certified arborists and local agricultural or university extensions. They all push natives in the WI area. Which is fine and some of them are on my list. The problem is that most of these folks don't have experience dealing with plants outside the native realm.
What do you grow that you like?

resin,
no wonder I had a hard time finding sources for Tetradium daniellii...wrong name. Which European purple leaf beech would you recommend?

Well again... I'd plant a bald cypress. Great tree for wet spots. But it wouldn't cross my mind to plant one in WI.
Why have you chosen bald cypress?
Especially when you could plant something like a larch?

And why plant a river birch when you can grow something like paper or sweet birches? Are you aiming unique-for-the-area?

I was under the impression larch was a poor performer in cultivation.

Bald Cypress is underutilized in WI, yet performs well. This one I have experience with.

To me paper birches are inferior plants...tell me more about a particular sweet birch.

All I have to do is plant something that isn't an Ash, Linden, Maple or Oak and its unique for my area.

Since most are suggesting what to take off the list, I'll give my suggestion for one to keep. Definately keep the Nyssa sylvatica. Incidently, it did have a small native population down in Kenosha.

tj

I 'm not knowledgeable about the fancy ones,special cultivars etc, but tulip tree is messy as can be before mowing you go collect the branches it spits out. Some you can mow over but agood bit are angled up and 2 inch thick etc.poaky

This is what I've come up with.

Must Haves...
Acer saccharum
Acer shirasawanum (Autumn Moon)
Acer triflorum
Aesculus (Homestead or Autumn Splendor)
Amur maakia (Starburst)
Carpinus caroliniana
Cercidiphyllum japonicum
Cercis canadensis
Chionanthus virginicus
Cladrastis kentukea
Cornus kousa (Wolf Eyes)
Ginkgo biloba (Autumn Gold)
Magnolia(Royal Star)
Nyssa sylvatica
Ostrya virginiana
Quercus bicolor
Quercus ellipsoidalis
Taxodium distichum (Shawnee brave)

Possible Future Planting...
Aesculus Pavia
Paw Paw
Acer palmatum (Emperor One or Fireglow)
Cornus mas
Evodia daniellii
Fagus sylvatica 'Riversii' (or TriColor)
Gymnocladus dioicus
Heptacodium miconioides
Korean Stewartia�
Liriodendron tulipifera
Malus (Firebird, Sugar Tyme, PrarieFire, Royal Raindrops)
Persian Parrotia
Tilia tomentosa 'Sterling'

Long shots...
Acer pseudosieboldianum
Acer x 'Keithsform' (Norwegian Sunset)
Amelanchier grandiflora (Autumn Brilliance)
Asimina Triloba
Betula nigra (Heritage)
Cornus alternifolia'Argentea'
Prunus maackii
Quercus robur 'Variegata'
Syringa reticulata (Ivory Silk, Spring Snow)
Varigated norway maple

I would not be without my Amelanchier grandiflora. Too many nice features.

tj

"Which European purple leaf beech would you recommend?"

The one with green leaves ;-)

They're particularly nice {{gwi:495300}}, waaay better than anything purple!

Resin

i hope you understand... that being the TREE BIGOT he is.. resin has told you to remove all variegated plants ... ;)

and everything not green .... ;)

understand that he is being evil .. not necessarily adding anything but his bias to the list ... ;)

all the power to him as a tree freak ... but a lot of us gardeners prefer a little more eye candy in the garden ... ;)

resin.. you left the wink-wink off your comment to indicate your devilry ... ;)

ken

From what I understand, the exotic larches are far more tolerant. There was a recent thread where we discussed it. I think it was titled "take a look at my larches" or something like that.

I missed that about the tuliptrees. Another one I wouldn't do in your area. You remind me of member on another tree forum who lives in Eastern Tennessee (think mountainous zones 6-7) but plants nothing but coastal species like live oak, cabbage palm and longleaf pine.

As for the birch, there is another gardenweb member in your state (WI) who is big into birches. I want to say his name is Tom but I could be mistaken. I'm pretty sure he has posted pictures of Betula alleghaniensis (yellow birch)
Betula lenta (sweet birch) if you do a search of this forum you might find it. Of the two I think sweet is your best bet. Another one that I would not make a specimen but it would look great in groupings.

How big of a property is it? Is it in a development where you have rules and restrictions or neighbors that are close to you?

"Copper Beech
They flush brownish-pink but soon assume the heavy, dark, blackish-purple colour that disfigures so much of our landscape. Grossly overplanted in villages, rectory gardens, churchyards, parks and all commemorative plantings."

-- A. F. Mitchell, A Field Guide to the Trees of Britain and Northern Europe

I'm not alone :o)

Resin

I would love to plant a Betula alleghaniensis, but I "heard" they are more finiky than Cornus kousa regarding temps and soil.

I'm on a 1/2 acre...no restrictions.

Whaas, I am a fan of different leaf color in general, but I have to second what Resin says about the beech. We planted 2 beech trees a couple years ago. A 'Riversii' and a plain old green one. While I really do like the purple, if I had to choose between them, I would go for the green. The green leaves are beautiful and the fall color is outstanding. Its fall color has been far superior to the purple.

If you have no restrictions, the first thing I'd do, if you don't already have it, is encase the entire property with a mixed border or green space. This is to provide some privacy, shade, and noise and wind buffer.
It should be wide enough so that while in leaf, the home is not easily visible from the street.

Obviously that will drastically reduce your usable lawn and the amount of space you have for specimen trees but I think you'll be glad you did unless it's an urban area in which case people will think you're off your rocker.

Then if you've got a sort of long driveway, I'd plant an allee of whatever. Then I'd go ahead and plant for optimizing energy efficiency. This includes planting trees for shade and also keeping a certain amount of area open for solar panel exposure. And also some open area if you grow your own vegetables or have any kind of livestock or require turfgrass for any reason. Or if you have a septic system. And if you haven't already done a utility locate, doing so will show you where your trees won't be going.
If you spend some time there through some heavy rain showers you will find out if any drainage issues need to be addressed.
I'd also consider planning ahead for outdoor living spaces such as patios, picnic areas, hammocks, firepit, swimming pool etc.

When you get done with this, you should have a much more focused picture of where your specimens and flowering trees and other landscaping is going to go.

Check this out, the conifer folks where all over it!

Here is a link that might be useful: Backbone

I would do an outer ring to all of that. Like a staggered row. Don't let anything you really care about hang over the property line. That means the oak and the lindens and ginkgo and all of that... move it in. I'd also line at least one side of the driveway with something to cast shade there and you need some evergreens along the border of the front of the lot for privacy. That's my opinion. Don't do what the red house did though, that's not quite what I'm talking about.
The others here can give you some ideas about what to use.
I also don't see any shrubs on that plan.

You've also got a lot of lindens there. How about some more variety? Lindens attract bees you know. I know people around here go ga ga for bugs but you're going to have a lot of stinging buzzing annoying bees.