Well, if you want to experiment, then try to get as much of the root ball as possible, which may not being possible given the size of the tree. Usually a tree that size would needed to be spaded with a tree spade. If you do try, move it when it is in its dormancy and water it well through the summer. Better still, why not try to move a smaller maple. Your success rate would be higher.

Ian

Where are you located - your page doesn't say, and some of the advice you get can be different depending on if you are in the East, West, mid-Atlantic, South, SW or PNW - winter conditions vary, after all.....

However, to give a general overview... The best time to transplant a tree is just after it has gone dormant - when the leaves fall off. It should have several months to re-grow a good root system, before the ground freezes solidly, and all growth, both of roots and of top-growth, stops 'til spring.

As long as you keep the root ball evenly moist, from top to bottom, the tree/roots should be fine. Since how MUCH to water and how OFTEN to water depend so much on local conditions of your soil and the weather, I can only say that you should stick a finger into the top of the root ball - if it's dry, water and if it's moist, wait and check again.

Mulch the area around the tree as widely as possible, no deeper than 4", and no mulch in the 2-4" next to the trunk.

To answer your question of how big a root ball to take, I can only say - as big as possible. My brother moved a slightly larger maple 4-5 years ago - had a tree digger come and move it, using a 90 in. "clamshell" digger, which probably went down about 4' at the deepest point. He moved it late, it had already started to leaf out, but that's when it had to be moved, for a house addition. (The cost of moving it was then $300, and the cost of a comparable tree was $1500!) Despite this, and that NC was then still in the earlier drought, the tree is thriving today. It was watered well for several years, using soaker hose, mulched well, and while the leaves grew a little sparsely for the first 2 years, now you can't tell it didn't start out on that side of the house. Digging a 90" root ball will probably not be possible for hand digging, but dig it as wide as you can - at least 4', more would be better. Since you have machinery to move it, the weight will be much less problem than hand lifting it. Do wrap the root ball up in a tarp, to minimize bits of soil falling off as you trundle it along to its new spot. Digging the new hole before you dig up the old one - at least roughly to the planned size - you can easily enough make corrections if it's too small - will limit the amount of time the tree is out of the ground. Water it well, mulch it widely, and it should be fine in a few years.

If your soil is heavy clay, then I think I might plant the root ball a little high, esp. if you initially dug the new hole a little deep and had to back-fill - that way any settling would be minimal, and the tree won't drown if you over-water, or it rains for a long time - I only wish I had the last to complain about!!! You can make up any difference in height with a little extra soil or mulch - I'm suggesting only a few inches, not 6-12"!

As you will have gathered from other posts, if you checked back through the recent ones on tree planting or have been a regular reader, don't add any amendments to the soil, don't fertilize, do water only when the soil is dry, and do mulch!

You will also need to be careful not to scrape off the bark. Most maples have very thin bark.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Should have mentioned that I'm in NW Missouri. I think I could handle the 4'-5' rootball mentioned, that's in the managable but still a whole lot of work category. Anything bigger just wouldn't be possible without a spade. If I decide to tackle it, I'll take some pics of the dig/move for a possible future post.

Ian, to answer your question, I've planted over 30 trees on our property the last few years including a few smaller
oak transplants. This one just really stands out in color and shape and would make a nice larger addition since many of the trees planted are from seedlings to 8' tall. Part of it may be the challenge of it as well. :)

I'm glad to hear that you are not a novice when it comes to transplanting trees.
I see your point about the reasons you want this particular tree.
Knowing what you know, you will probably be sucessful.
Good luck with your tree.

Ian

If you can wait until next fall, I'd advise root pruning now and moving the tree next fall. Root pruning involves taking a sharp, square shovel and sinking it 12 to 18 inches straight down into the soil in a circle around the tree. The circle should be at a point a few inches back from where you intend to dig out the root ball. During the next growing season, this will stimulate smaller, feeder roots to grow from just behind the point where the shovel cuts the larger roots. The extra feeder roots inside the root ball give this larger tree a better chance of survival the summer after transplanting. FWIW, maples transplant easier than many species.

I don't know how much staking may be needed, since normally it is frowned upon...but don you think since it is so top heavy and the rootball was probably not intact...that you may need to stake it? May need an update from an expert though?

I staked it over the winter. The ice storm we had had the top of the tree half way to the ground. I was afraid of it uprooting then and staked it after knocking all of the ice off.

jq, though I'm one who often advises not to stake, I think you're right on about this case, for the reasons you've given.

jk, it's really all about adequate moisture for now. I also usually frown on folks digging trees out of the woods, where they're perfectly happy, and killing them in their yards. But it sounds like you know what you're doing! Best of luck.

+oM

wisconsitom,

All of my other tranplants from the last few years are doing very well, including several oaks. This one is by far the largest I've attempted though.

Should I simply follow my normal watering routine that I've used for my smaller tranplants (surface watering & mulch)or do I need to consider a deeper penetrating watering method.

I would go with your usual routine, but give it a bit longer/deeper watering to be sure the water is getting to the bottom of the root ball - soaker hose coiled over the root area, and a little beyond it make it easier to be slow and deep. Mulching out beyond the root ball will help keep the soil cooler and moister, and encourage roots to grow - since there are no roots/very few roots there now, you could have the mulch a little deeper than the normal 4".

If the leaves look a little wilty on a hot afternoon, I wouldn't worry too much - it's a normal reaction to heat. BUT, if they stay wilted when it cools off, or are still wilted in the morning, I would water well. If it keeps happening, then maybe you need to water more or more often.

Thanks for the replies everyone. I'll see what happens once the days warm up and water demand begins to rise. Hopefully it will be successfull. The fact that its a maple should help too. They seem to transplant much easier than some of the oaks I've moved.

Also, how about root stimulator? Should it be used or not? Thanks.

jk

Personally I wouldn't go over 4" of mulch.

As for the root stimulator. I've tried it, as local nursery puts it in their planting instructions, and they have been around for many years. However my "feel" is that it didn't help much. With that said, I don't "know" that, only that it certainly didn't seem to particularly help.

IMHO Arktrees

Sorry, I should have said more in my earlier posting, but was distracted by the cats knocking something over. The deeper mulch should ONLY be beyond the actual root ball - the natural forces working on it should have broken it down by the time the roots are growing well, and it should then be no more than 4" deep. I was thinking in terms of no more than 6" for that part, initially. So all that was in my head, but didn't get posted. What I should have said was "you could have the mulch a little deeper than the normal 4"" in that area.

If you already have the root stimulator, I think it won't hurt, but I wouldn't go out and buy any.

I added root stimulator when I initially transplanted and watered last November. I haven't added since, but do have some if it would be benificial.

jk

jk96- anyway you could post a picture of the tree? thanx

Ditto on thye "Root Stimulator". I see no harm in it, but wouldn't expect a world of difference. I'm interested in products of this type, and want them to work. But all the research I've seen thusfar has been dissapointing. Who knows? In time there may be something along these lines that is really effective.

+oM

Prostrata,

I'll try to take some pictures and post them tomorrow evening. I expect it to leaf out within the next 2-3 days. All of the buds are beginning to swell and get some color to them. I'll post additional pictures once it does leaf out. Maybe someone can help identify the type of maple. Last fall it had very nice yellow/orange fall color.

jk

Here's a few pics as request. Right now I only have the tree staked on one side which was to offset the direction it was leaning during the ice storm we had. I'll post a few more once it leafs out and maybe someone can help me with an id

{{gwi:485078}}

{{gwi:485079}}

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It looks good. I think you are correct in expecting it to leaf out/flower in a few days.

I can't see it clearly, but is there any padding on the strapping around the trunk? It looks to be putting a fair bit of pressure on the trunk - if the strapping is an inch wide or more, then it's probably OK. I would loosen the strapping as soon as the tree is sufficiently upright - the more it can move in the wind, the stronger it will get.

If you could mulch out to the drip-line, it might be a good idea - there have been studies showing that trees mulched out to 20' did better than trees mulched out to 10', which did better than trees out to 5' or less. It looks like you have only about 2' of mulch out from the trunk, although I know judging distances from a photo can be tricky. The mulch mantra is; as widely as possible, no deeper than 4" and no mulch in the inch or 2 next to the trunk.

JK96, I WANT your tractor!

;^) +oM

"JK96, I WANT your tractor!"

Wisconsitom,
Thanks - I'll take that as a complement :) Just wish I had it last fall when I transplanted the tree. It would have made things much easier. My smaller tractor did not have enough lift to handle the 4-5' rootball. Only have 10 hours on it so far.

Dibbit,
Thanks for the advise. I'll extend the mulch on out. Right now its at about 3'. Although this spring could not have been better for the tree. Plenty of rain and cool enough that it did not leaf out early like last year. I'll post some pics in a week or so when it leafs out. Thanks all.

jk

forgot to mention - the strapping is 3/4" and has rubber hose protecting the trunk. I will gradually ease the tension throughout the summer as suggested.

Tree is leafing out now - just wondering if someone can verify identification. Color last fall before transplant was bright orange with a hint of red. I'm guessing sugar maple.

{{gwi:485081}}

Yep that's a Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum)

Here is a link that might be useful: Some info

Yep. I agree!