Is it bad if i dont stake my newly planted trees

tlbean2004

9 years ago

This past summer i planted 3 crape myrtles, 1 plum tree, 1 peach tree and this past friday a little gem magnolia.

They were all in 3 gal containers and when i put them into the ground they stand on thier own so i have not used any stakes.
Is this ok?

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (8)

poaky1
9 years ago
You are doing the tree a diservice staking it if it isn't needed, actually. You will get a stronger trunk if you don't stake it. But of course if the tree is tall and whispy, I would loosely stake it, just until it is stable enough not to fall over. The wind will help the trunk get stronger, but of course it needs to get thick enough not to droop and break in the wind. One of the good things about starting out with a smaller specimen vs, a giant transplant from a nursery where all the trees are in a row like army ants. Just my 2cents. Poaky1
0
brandon7 TN_zone7
9 years ago
Never stake a tree unless there is reason to believe it needs to be staked.
0
Related Discussions
Please help. Newly transplanted trees looking bad.
Q
Comments (12)
Boy that puny amount of watering wouldn't satisfy my maples in my sandy loam that has a lot of gravel in it. I give my maples 1200 gallons ( I know my gph rate of water) of water 2 times a week and they drink it right up. My soil drains so fast that even with all that water it all goes down the soil instantly. Ive dug a hole right nearby and even with all that water, the soil is only moist, all the water has gone all the way down, probably all the way down to the aquifer. lol 2 years ago I planted some trees and watered 10 gallons 3 times a week like many people say, and every tree went into transplant shock, lost all their leaves, came back and went right into early fall foliage. So I started watering based on what was right for our soil. I learned right away that what may be right for some soils is not at all right for others. These 3 maples I planted just this year have grown over a foot and a half, and are luscious and green, not a hint of shock to be found. The next day the soil doesn't even look like it's been watered at all. Good grief, it's just crazy here. Trees need more water than I think a lot of people realize. 5 minutes of water 2 times a day is starving the poor tree.
...See More
Should I stake my trees?
Q
Comments (7)
Staking's purpose isn't so much to hold a tree straight, it's mostly to hold a tree's root ball in place during the first few months after planting so that it can put out roots quickly and effectively. Once the plant has anchored itself, it should not require staking. If you think that your trees are not wind tolerant, look closely at other species that would be. Staking long-term ain't gonna help a tree that doesn't like wind. Here's the process in TEN STEPS 1. Dig a shallow, broad planting hole. -- 24 hours before planting. -- Make the hole as much as three times as wide as the diameter of the root ball of the plant, -- but only slightly deeper than the root ball. -- It is important to make the hole wide because most of the new roots on an establishing plant are lateral growing and they must push through surrounding soil. -- Break up and clean up the removed soil. -- Breaking up the soil in a large area around the tree provides the newly emerging roots room to expand into loose soil. -- Fill the hole with water and allow to drain completely. If there is still water in the hole after 24 hours, consider some serious drainage mending. 2. Identify the trunk flare ("arch" or "crown"). -- The trunk flare is where the roots begin to spread at the base of the tree. This point should be partially visible after the tree has been planted. -- If the trunk flare is not partially visible, you may have to remove some soil from the top of the root ball. -- Find it so you can determine how deep the hole needs to be for proper planting. 3. Place the tree at the proper height -- with the trunk flare just above the finish level. -- Before placing the tree in the hole, check to see that the hole has been dug to the proper depth. -- The majority of the roots on the newly planted tree will develop in the top 12" of soil. -- If the tree is planted too deep, new roots will have difficulty developing due to a lack of oxygen. -- It is better to plant the tree a little high, -2" above the base of the trunk flare (for largest trees), than to plant it at or below the original growing level. -- This will allow for some settling. NOTE: To avoid damage when setting the tree in the hole, always lift the tree by the root ball and never by the trunk. 4. Straighten the tree in the hole. -- Before you begin backfilling, have someone view the tree from several directions to confirm the tree is straight. -- Once you begin backfilling it is difficult to reposition. 5. Fill the hole, gently but firmly. -- Fill the hole about 1/3 full and gently but firmly pack the soil around the base of the root ball. -- Be careful not to damage the trunk or roots in the process. -- Water to settle well. -- Fill the remainder of the hole, taking care to firmly pack soil to eliminate air pockets that may cause roots to dry out. -- Add the soil a few inches at a time and settle with water. -- Continue this process until the hole is filled and the tree is firmly planted. MYTH 1: DO NOT ADD AMENDMENT OF ANY KIND -- regardless of your soil conditions. This is contrary to nearly universal (but improper) practice but it is the correct way to ensure long-term success of the tree. MYTH # 2: Do NOT apply fertilizer at the time of planting. -- Allow at least one month before any feeding (if needed at all). MYTH # 3: -- No B1 is necessary either. 6. Stake the tree. -- Remove any existing nursery stake(s). -- Use one stake (smallest trees), two stakes (bigger trees), or three stakes (multiple trunk trees). -- Two stakes used in conjunction with wide flexible tying material will hold the tree upright, provide flexibility, and minimize injury to the trunk. -- Remove this support staking and ties after the first six to twelve months of growth. MYTH # 4: Do NOT keep stakes and ties on trees beyond the rooting period. 6-18 months 7. Build a berm -- a raised basin 4-6" high; just outside -- 2-3" -- the edge of the root ball. 8. Water. -- Soak the tree thoroughly. -- Wait until the soil surface dries completely (down 1-3 inches, depending on the size of the tree) before watering again. 9. Mulch the base of the tree. -- A mulch on top of the ground acts as a blanket to hold moisture, provides nutrients, and to reduce competition from weeds. -- Mulch around the tree also eliminates the need to trim or mow close to the tree's base. DAMAGE. -- A two- to four-inch thick layer is ideal at this time. -- When placing mulch, keep it out from the actual trunk of the tree. -- Mulching material against the trunk often causes decay of the living bark at the base of the tree. -- A mulch-free area, two to four inches out from the base of the tree, is sufficient to avoid moist bark conditions and to prevent decay. 10. Prune? -- remove ONLY dead or broken branches. MYTH # 5: Do NOT top newly planted trees nor "tip back" branches MYTH # 6: nor "limb up" (remove lower lateral branches) the trunk at this time. -- Wait FOR A FULL SEASON OF GROWTH to begin necessary corrective or aesthetic pruning. Joe
...See More
stake newly planted orange tree?
Q
Comments (6)
This little 'crook' looks like the graft union, to me. It is somewhat higher than is typical, but that's what it looks like. I can't really see anything lower on the trunk that might lead me to think otherwise. Should you ever see any new branches begin to form from below that graft union, be sure to prune them off right away. You don't want the root stock plant to take over your cultivar (grafted) variety. By the way, just so you know....even if this was a case of a plain old crooked trunk, you couldn't straighten it. You'd just have to learn to love it! Can't tell for sure from the images but is there a layer of your sandy soil (haven't seen that since I left SC!) piled on top of the root ball of your tree? If so, be sure to remove it. The top of the root ball should be completely exposed. If you like, you can pull all of that extra soil closer to the root ball and construct a 'moat' around the roots. This helps to insure that when you water your tree (by filling the moat), the root ball will get the most benefit. You MUST keep that root ball moist during the establishment phase. If you don't intend to use that extra backfill, it should be taken away from site. Top dress your grass with it. Studies have shown that trees need less water than people think upon planting. Provide a good soaking once a week, but supplement that with daily root ball watering with just a gallon or two. Keeping the area overly moist slows down the establishment process. Those roots should extend out at least three times the distance from the trunk to the edge of the canopy by the time a new tree is considered established. In times of extreme heat and no rainfall, get the hose out more often. By the way, don't expect the measly little bit of watering from a typical irrigation cycle to be enough water for newly planted trees and shrubs. And don't increase the irrigation timing to accommodate the tree. In your climate and soil, you won't have to hand water for too awfully long. Maybe through the summer but that's even pushing it. They will take care of themselves if only we let them. Don't fertilize upon planting. There is really no need to fertilize for several months (even a year) in most situations. When you do decide it's time, I'd go with a Citrus product, which will have the minor elements proven to be of benefit (or even essential) to citrus. Granular fertilizers can simply be broadcast on top of the mulch and watered in. When you mulch you plant, be sure that you do not pile any on top of the root ball or trunk. What's shading your tree? It does get plenty of direct sunlight, right.
...See More
Will cedar apple rust ruin my newly planted crabapple trees?
Q
Comments (9)
I am going to assume you didn't know about Cedar Apple Rust before you planted the trees, but just for the benefit of others who might be wanting to plant apples or crabapples, the best advice is to think long and hard before you do it. Because cedar trees are widespread in our state and very invasive, it is very hard, if not almost impossible, to grow healthy apples and crabapples here. I love apples, but have lived here for 10 years and never planted one because I don't want to deal with cedar apple rust. Since you've already planted the trees, though, you have to deal with it. So, in answer to your questions: I don't think it is possible to control it on the cedars themselves. What you can do is remove the cedar apples (the fungal growths, also known as galls) before they form horns. If they have already formed horns it is too late. And, if there are cedar trees within about 2 miles of you, the disease can be carried through the air, so removing the cedar apples from the infected cedar trees near you may help a little, but it won't prevent airborne cedar apple disease spores from infecting your plants. You can spray your crabapples with a fungicide that is labeled for use on crabapples for the prevention/control of cedar apple rust, but the spraying has to be done at very specific temperatures and at very precise times. I believe the spores transfer most readily when temperatures are in the 60s. The fungicide most readily available to homeowners for Cedar Apple Rust on crabapples is cholorothalonil, most often sold as Daconil, and often used by vegetable gardeners, for example, to prevent Early Blight on tomatoes. I think you also can use a different fungicide called Bayleton. Just read and follow the label directions IF it is not too late, weatherwise and temperaturewise, in your area. Even though your crabapple trees are new to you, they actually are several years old by the time you buy them, so the application of a fungicide following label directions should not harm them at all. Just be sure you dilute the fungicide and apply it as directed. The entire life cycle of cedar apple rust from cedar tree to its transferrence to apple trees takes almost 2 years. It is an ever-present threat. It is the reason you don't see vast orchards of apples in Oklahoma. Of the two crabapples you plante, I think Prairiefire is considered highly disease-resistant and Profusion less so. However, disease-resistant only means the tree has some resistance, not immunity, and even disease-resistant trees can and do get diseases. Cedar Apple Rust is the main cause of rust on apple trees, but you also have to watch out for the closely related Cedar-Quince Rust and Cedar-Hawthorne Rust. They are controlled/prevented by the same fungicides. Please understand though that even the regular application of fungicide is no guarantee the trees won't become infected. Understand also that cedar apple rust is not something that will be a problem only once. If is an issue for your trees one year, it probably will be an issue for them every year when the temperatures are in the precise range that allows the spores to transfer and infect apple trees. Only you can decide if you want to deal with the cedar-apple rust disease every year, or if you'd rather cut your losses and replace your crabapple trees with some other kind of tree that is more disease-resistant. Good luck, Dawn Here is a link that might be useful: Info on Cedar Apple Rust
...See More
edlincoln
9 years ago
Honestly, I stake trees in part because it makes them less likely to fall victim to a lawnmower or weed whacker.

If these trees are all big enough they won't be confused for weeds, it depends on the wind situation. If none of these trees were blown over by wind during the summer, they should be fine.
0
wisconsitom
9 years ago
A catch-22 is what this is: don't stake a tree unless it needs it............you won't know if it needs it until it, uh..................needed it. We, by which I mean the municipality I happen to work for, plant upwards of one thousand new street trees each year. After some years of hemming and hawing around, we settled on simply staking them all-two T-posts per, religiously removing these stakes after a year. All in all, a pretty good program. We're not unneccesarily weakening these things by over-reliance on staking, just getting them past the hump of being newly planted, ie, no root system to speak of. Seems to be a reasonable compromise.

In other less-windy situations and with small "native restoration"-sized materials, no staking is ever needed, these plants typically going into wind-sheltered areas.

The third situation is vandalism. Not a concern in your yard most likely, try planting trees on streets in run-down neighborhoods. Just the presence of two stakes and accompanying tying material can make the difference between an undamaged tree and one which has been casually banged on with a bat or other mindless activity. It happens.

+oM
0
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
IMHO ... staking is to insure that the root mass will not shift .. and that is usually a function of the size above.. versus the soil below ... and that is short term until the roots can do the job ... i usually remove such.. at the end of the second season ....

e.g. in my sand ... and presuming it 3 foot or less ... bare roots ...and a deciduous tree ... by the time i water it deeply in.. the sand creates an almost cement ... [draining mind you] ... soil.. and that tree isnt going anywhere ... ever... and by the time it leafs out late next spring in MI ... it will have grown roots to hold itself there ...

if you complicate all that with bad clay ... not bare rooting [divergent soils]... too big instant gratification ... planting when leafed out.. etc ... then you need to stake it ..

PROTECTING has nothing to do with staking it per se ... in and of itself ... i have often set lets call them 'rods' but they are stakes ... AROUND a plant... to avoid the kids stomping on them when under snow cover.. keeping deer away.. etc ... and even 4 inch black corrugated drain pipe on tree for rabbits ..

in a sense.. you are confusing the word usage ... staking is to hold up a tree.. other uses are protection ... and not really staking ...

ken
0
Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A
9 years ago
Do you ever have snow load or ice load issues? How about high winds?

I find it very helpful to stake newly planted trees loosely to get them thru their first winter at least.
0
ilovemytrees
9 years ago
I staked my Golden Raintree for the first 2 years, having just taken off the stake a couple months ago. I didn't actually stake it in the traditional sense; I used plant supports from gardeners.com. Here they are: http://www.gardeners.com/buy/stem-ladder-supports/39-517RS.html?start=24&cgid=FlowerSupports_Cat

Anyway, I live in a somewhat windy area, so staking the tree when it was a baby was the practical thing to do. And I saw it as protecting my investment.

ETA: I also use those supports for my newly planted, skinny sugar maple trees. They easily withstand the wind on their own, but it makes me feel better knowing that in our miserable windy winter that they'll remain upright.

This post was edited by ilovemytrees on Tue, Nov 4, 14 at 7:38
0
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
9 years ago
yes.. of course.. there are a multitude of reasons ...

but you dont do it for the heck of it ...

as to winter ice .... as snow is usually irrelevant on a deciduous tree ... i have had more snap at my poor attempt at staking.. as compared to bowing over.. and springing back up.. once the ice fell off ... but again ... my soil didnt make it falling over an issue ...

and.. in my z5 MI .;. the ground freezes solid... so it isnt going to fall over.. it would more likely break ...

my biggest problem.. was usually the second year ... thin wispy trunk .. and the thing leafs out and grow a foot or two .. w/o ever any fert ... and the sailboat sail of leave mass... overwhelms the thin trunk ... and a couple broke at the stake connection ... as i guessed wrong about the placement of such ... i didnt allow the wood to flex .. like a bow ... i created a static point ... such was rejected ...

and that is when i learned.. that when dealing with a thin trunk .... you drive a stake as close to the plant.. and splint it to the trunk to make it stronger .... that i learned not to go for instant gratification..and started buying smaller ... so the trunk would grow in sync with the canopy .... and lo and behold.. found out.. that a smaller transplant will usually outgrow the larger instant gratification plant... go figure ...

ken
0

Is it bad if i dont stake my newly planted trees

Comments (8)

poaky1

brandon7 TN_zone7

Related Discussions

edlincoln

wisconsitom

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

Dave in NoVA • N. Virginia • zone 7A

ilovemytrees

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US