I don't want to hurt your feelings, someone said I was rude because I gave an opinion on how to care for the plant. This is an African plant and really needs a resting time in our summers. It is winter in Africa now, with a lot of rain, and cold weather so it is resting now in Africa, no one told the plant that it is growing north of the Equator. Here it is in flower and will begin to grow again after it flowers, he tips are brown which tells me it is getting too much water, and the leaves are turning yellow and has red/brown tips, which may mean it is getting ready to die, it may need fertilizer, and the shade seems to be doing it some good as the new leaves are coming up green, its lower leaves are drying up, and the plant needs some dormant time, and soil changed if it hasn't been changed in the past year. This is just my opinion, others will tell you theirs, this is a forum. Crasulady2

Thank you all for the prompt responses. First of all, yes, I'm new to succulents. I've had no interest in growing anything that couldn't survive outside all year in my native climate until recently. I've specifically become enamored with crassulas (largely because it was a mature jade given to me that kick-started the obsession). In the last two months, I've poured over these forums on a daily basis, done quite a bit of research elsewhere, and it's gotten to the point where almost everything I read I've already learned, digested, taken notes on, etc. I understand I can't gain experience on the internet, but I'm going to milk what it can offer me for all it's worth. Why do I want to separate the trunks? Because I work with bonsai, and I want to train these as "large" bonsai. I agree that aesthetically it looks great now, but I won't like the way this plant will look in the future if I leave both trunks there. I know that much. I would also prefer the plant puts all its growth into the one trunk as soon as possible. The bigger they get, and the closer their bases grow together, the harder this is going to be down the line. I didn't think this would be a big deal. And if it is, fine. I'll just whack one trunk off above the soil line and try to root it. I'm not offended (really), but not sure why this would be considered overly ambitious. To clear up confusion on my #2 point: I was concerned that if I were to cut these in half (beneath the soil line) that I would run the risk of the plants rotting after I planted them and eventually resumed watering them. They BOTH would have roots already attached, but BOTH would need to heal the separation cut before being watered. While it's claimed that I haven't learned that "your new plant can stand to be bare root for a while, does it no harm at all. As long as it's not in direct sun & is kept DRY, it can be out of mix for a while", I actually have learned this. I've read that and learned that, but it's always phrased similarly. This stuff is all relative. What's a "while"? With other plants, that could refer to a few hours. The plant has been uprooted and dry for a 8 days now. Specifics can be rare when you start looking for them. That's where my confusion comes from. I was never concerned about a week, but two? three? If I were to cut them in half, I would have to leave them unwatered for even longer. What's my limit? As for my plucked leaf theory... the more leaves that were plucked, the softer and wrinklier the branch. (And that's no stretch, it's plain as day). It's the only variable that was changed. I'm just not sure why seeming "anxious" or "ambitious" prevents me from learning how to properly execute a procedure on a notoriously "easy" plant to work with. I've worked successfully with much trickier plants for many years. I can plant the jade as it is, care for it perfectly for years and years, but I'm not going to learn a thing about separating trunks beneath the soil until I ask about it, learn about it, and do it. Right? I'll be right back here asking the same thing, which can be soiled down to: "how risky is this?" If it's obvious I don't "get" some things, please point me in the right direction to acquire that knowledge. After months of reading, I think I get the "basics" (and am tired of reading them, as I'm sure you're all tired of posting them). I just have some specific questions, because I AM ambitious, and eager, and curious. That's why I'm reading the manuals, so to speak, before doing anything I'll later regret. I'm sure everyone can understand that. Oh yeah. As for the cuttings not holding water? They are not potted up. I was advised to let them callus over for at least a week before doing that. It's funny, actually, because they are "standing up DRY in an empty clay pot in the shade". Or were, rather. I moved them inside earlier today, since the trunks have lost 20% of their size in that environment. Thank you, again, for all the responses. I hope my tone isn't too defensive, just trying to clear some things up. I really appreciate the responses. Gray

My opinion, which is not professional, but slightly experienced, if the leaves that are yellowing are the lowest leaves you don't have much of a problem. Cut the branches off. You want to create a good distance between the lowest tomato leaves and the ground...having lower branches of the tomato plant hanging too close to the ground, touching the ground, or having dirt splashing onto your lower leaves is something you want to avoid happening. Having them too close to the ground or dirt splashing onto them when it rains may cause problems such as blight or transmission of other disease. Anyway, it just looks like the plant is doing its job of getting rid of leaves that have been depleted of their necessity and/or neutrients. Again if it is just lower leaves, ditch the leaves or the whole branches. If you're getting a lot of rain and concerned about early blight, grab a copper fungicide from a lawn and garden store to spray after rainy periods and every 1-2 weeks.

Yours looks about the same size as mine but I don't do more than fertilize once a quarter or so and water when dry, say once a week, but I have OK soil and have lots of decomposing mulch. Mine is deep, deep green so it's happy but only one flower this year. My Geffner right next to it has flowered every year and each year my crop doubles or better as it matures. Oh well, next year, we'll see. I'm wondering if the fertilizer schedule you're on and the good soil and fertilizer I give it is giving them more emphasis on growth, nitrogen will do that. But then again the Geffner is bearing fruit, there's going to be about 20 in the harvest this year. Hard to tell the Geffner is STILL flowering AND has fist sized fruits on it too. Anyway, If the sugar apple doesn't get going next year, I might select another atemoya cultivar. We'll see. I (soto voce') threatened my persimmon last year (in the ground 3+ years) that I was going to yank it if it didn't fruit this season, and it worked! What's next? Classical music to induce fruiting? :-)