trees that should NEVER be planted ...
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
15 years ago
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lou_spicewood_tx
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agodavidfoster
15 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
Help..Dragon's Eye Pine..never planted tree
Comments (10)If you google, you will find dozens of sites with rather specific information, all providing more or less the same information. And if you understand the reasons behind some of these instructions you can determine that they are not frivolous suggestions but have some sound horticultural basis behind them. I hate to state anything in absolute terms - everything has a context that may require some modifications - but the following are factors that will encourage rapid establishment of your new tree and increase its long term survivability. Avoid amending the planting hole. Studies have shown that planting in your indigenous soil and backfilling with the same is preferred. Altering the soil in the planting hole can lead to soil interface issues affecting drainage. If your soil is heavy clay, plant high and mound up to the edge of the root ball with your own soil or an organic mulch. A wide and somewhat shallow planting hole is recommended. The width (and 2-3 times the diameter of the rootball is standard) encourages the outward spread of the root system. Many folks are of the impression that all tree roots go down deeply into the soil, therefore they need to dig a deep hole. While trees will put down deeper anchor roots, the bulk of the root system will eventually be located just under the soil surface. And since many containerized and B&B trees have minimal or congested root systems on planting, they need that freedom to expand. Digging too deep a planting hole often results in settling and your tree will become too deep, a sure-fire way to an early demise. IME, watering of newly planted trees and shrubs is very misunderstood. You want to water in well when first planted, priamrily to remove any air pockets in the planting hole, but also to equalize the moisture level of the rootball and the surrounding soil. Make sure the rootball is adequately moistened before planting - it is pretty hard to rewet a dry rootball once it's in the ground. And you will need to keep the planting area evenly moist (but not wet) for 6-8 weeks. Even in winter this may require periodic watering if your weather is dry. Mulching lightly over the rootball (but keep away from the trunk) will help conserve soil moisture and reduce weeds that may compete. I've seen more new trees die over winter because the owner assumed periodic rainfall was adequate. Regular deep watering is also required through the first couple of growing seasons as well. It is only after this period of time of establishment that the tree will be more or less self-sufficient water-wise, except for periods of extended drought. Avoid fertilizing when planting. The activity of planting and related disturbance stresses a plant and you want to avoid fertilizing a stressed plant. Supplemental fertilizer may be applied later at the beginning of the growing season or next fall when it is most efficiently metabolized, but only if soil tests first indicate fertilizer is necessary. Trees generally require very little in the way of supplemental fertilization. Here is a link that might be useful: basic tree planting instructions...See Moretdogdad. how often should I water planted trees?
Comments (1)go to a nursery and buy a cheap water meter and stick the probe deep into the planter and water when it reads between moist and dry. Without leaves, keep them on the dry side. As leaves grow increase water to match the number of leaves. You will be surprised how slowly a large planter dries out. Bill...See MoreTrees, should I wait or plant now?????
Comments (5)Thanks. No water restrictions here in Mississippi. I've got a lake that I'm thinking of pumping water from. I figured it would be better than putting that chlorinated water on the plants. Plus, I thought there might even be some nutrients in the lake water. I'm going to plant later this week after this cold snap passes. The shade is coming mostly from Oak trees with a few Ash trees here and there. In the winter, the cedars will get almost full sun in the afternoon when the leaves are gone but the spring and summer months are pretty shady. I hope it's not too much shade for them while they get established....See MoreLazy lemon tree never really dies, never really grows
Comments (25)As silica said citrus have shallow roots but you DO need to remove that grass from inside the water ring by the citrus, grass is very prolific and can uptake nutrients more quickly than citrus roots can i believe now that you have gotten rid of the rootstock feeder branches that were robbing nutrients if you get rid of the grass that is also robbing the nutrients you will see some great color improvement and rapid growth improvement on that lemon tree. i would get down there and pull the grass out by hand shouldnt take more than a half hour do that and get all that grass out then stay on top of it once a week....See Moregreenman28 NorCal 7b/8a
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