If you are going to get the Shinko, a good pollinator is Shinseiki. They bloom at the same time in my yard and my son-in-law's yard (both Houston). The shinko is good as long as you don't get too much rain near ripening. They will be bland with the rain.....dry periods good. Shinseiki is better in my opinion, but it needs a pollinator. Shinko fruits without a pollinator, but much more fruit with a pollinator. Shinko does get blight....I lost mine after about 8 years due to blight....it was bad that year. I replaced my shinko with Tennosui. First time fruiting last year. Was not impressed with fruit. Mine were not crisp and low flavor. Tree may still be too young. I prefer crisp pears and my favorite is Southern Queen, sweet, flavorful and crisp. I may replace my Tennosui with it's sister, Southern King if the fruit don't improve. The Akers (acres) Home pear is very good. It is excellent flavor and sweetness after a week or two off the tree. No problems with blight, but it does have rot problems. You may have to spray.....don't know about San Antone. I think the rot problem may be why it is not pushed much anymore here, but it is excellent. I pulled mine due to rot and it is a melting pear and I like crisp.

I just love asian pears. I find then irresistible and better eating than tart Apples. Pears branches grow straight up and tend form narrow tall trees. What I do is select shoots that will become branches, to form a wide balanced tree. Rub off branch shoot growing inwards to the tree center. Rubbing off forming branches is better than pruning them off later. I put a clothes pin just above a new shot to direct the branch to grow outwards. You can train a central leader, then clip the leader 8' high to open center and have a modified central leader. You can also start with a 36" trunk and train open center using clothes pins to open the scaffolds. The next few years as the tree takes shape rub off inward growing buds and allow outside growing buds. Tie down branches in winter to widen the scaffold branches.

Interesting that I am having more damage on Asian pears this year as well. I've also noticed a lot more stink bugs than usual. Oddly enough I haven't seen european hornets this year, though. In addition, not many fruits set on my more mature trees after a good crop last year. One good variety for me not mentioned here is chojuro(AKA the "rum" pear)--relatively small (especially so this year), but highly flavored and less juicy even than KG. It's beginning to ripen now. I wouldn't give up on shinseiki. It has been a flavorful pear and significantly larger than its parent 20th century for me anyway. It's also been much less prone to cracking than 20th century. I also like KG. Its lateness, large size, and storage capacity are important assets. Hosui tends to be very juicy and seems to please a lot of people. I've only had two seasons of shinko (and just a few at that), but it hasn't impressed me much. It's been rather bland for me and prone to cracking. The variety's main selling point seems to be its purported fireblight resistance. All these observations are in my area of course and these varieties could perform quite differently for you.

Just a couple of comments: You said, "Please keep in mind that I just started gardening, and still learning the basics. I have planted peach, cherry, plum, blueberry, hazelnut, none of them giving tasty fruits." If I understand, you are wondering why you don't have fruits yet from these plants? Any woody plant will take several years to get enough roots and be settled in enough with enough size to start producing fruits. The standard saying for perennials is the first year they sleep, the second year they creep, and the third year they leap. Trees and shrubs take even longer. Also, most of what you have listed will need to be protected in some way from critters who want to eat them once they start producing; birds will eat blueberries and cherries, and squirrels and chipmunks like hazelnuts. You said, "I read that hazelnut trees are tough and general high-yielding. I bought several seedlings two years ago (2012 Spring), and they had been very hardy. But they looked like a bush forever." If you are talking about the American hazelnut, you will in my experience literally have to wait forever to have trees. We have native hazelnuts that have been growing where they are for at least 20 years, and they still look like bushes. By nature they are multistemmed and are 6 to 16 feet tall, not really trees in appearance. Also, though I see them with green nuts, I have never seen ripe nuts since the critters get them all. (We don't cover or protect them.) In studies I have seen, smaller plants settle in more quickly and within a few years are growing as well as or even better than plants that were planted larger at the same time, so in the long run there won't be much advantage to planting larger fruit-bearing trees. Gardening isn't for the faint of heart, and trees and shrubs in particular take patience. Your blueberries will start producing before the others you have currently planted. I think mine took three years to really produce much. If you want more fruit soon, strawberries and cane fruits will produce in their second year. Annual fruits and vegetables will produce in the year you plant them, so you can plant fruit like melons and harvest them the same year. I don't want to rain on your parade, but I am trying to help you be realistic in your expectations for your plants. One thing you can do while you are waiting is do some reading on care of your plants. Most fruit trees and bushes need periodic pruning to produce well, and familiarity with diseases of plums, peaches, cherries in particular, and also (though less a problem) for blueberries as well as disease prevention will help you maintain the health of your plants as they start producing.