I'll gently disagree with the VF-11 recommendation on this basis: The guaranteed analysis of the primary macro-nutrients (NPK) in Eleanor's is: 0.15 - 0.85 - 0.55 This is less than 1% of ANY of the majors. 1/8 of 1% N, 7/8 of 1% P, 1/2 of 1% K. This is EXTREMELY low in fertility. Since I cannot find the rest of the analysis, I'm going to guess the rest of the nutrients are probably nonexistent, or nearly so. I haven't used this potion (VF-11), but then, you don't need to ride the bus to know what makes the wheels go round & round. Forgive me for being somewhat skeptical or even cynical, but when vague claims are made like: ... and mildew is eliminated because VF-11 changes the pH and creates a condition where mildew can not grow. Once again, isn't it amazing? I wonder why there isn't something specific in the claim. Changes the pH of what? Soil? Cellular pH? Leaf surface pH - for how long? Hmmm I also wonder at: VF-11 builds so much strength and health that plant cells 'harden' and 'seal in' the amino acids which aphids feed on. You have merely eliminated their food supply. And you have done it without the use of poisonous systemic or pesticides. Pretty nice...huh? Don't aphids feed on sap. How does this product make the sap unavailable to aphids? Does it somehow make cells so hard that they cannot be penetrated and dry up all the intra-cellular plant water/sap? Should I/we be saying GMAB here? There's more, but you get the drift. I wouldn't say that this product has no benefit, as it may very well have some, but I am of the general feeling there is almost surely no panacean value to products like Superthrive or this elixir, and it's a good bet it's not the magic potion some may think it to be. I don't trust advertising that is known to be false and this alone is enough to fuel the skepticism in me. One thing additional: The claim that "you cannot overdo", means there could only be extremely minute (almost immeasurable or nonexistent) amounts of any micro-nutrients in it because micro-nutrient overdose produces toxicity at even low levels and over-doing would reveal readily visible symptoms quickly. Like I said, I wouldn't argue that it has no value, but I do know that I would invest in a good, known source of micro-nutrients and an appropriate fertilizer before I'd trust plant vitality to a product labeled with so many unsubstantiated claims. Al

Stunning photo Jeanner! Mystery solved. I planted verbascum last year and this spring it was gone, and it was in a good garden bed. Talk about a short lived perennial. In this case also known as an annual. LOL 'Jackie' is really pretty. Good luck with it Brenda, maybe it will like Cali better! Campanula grows well for me, the peach-leafed type the best. No luck with the shorter 'blue clips' types. Delphiniums last two seasons in my zone 7, with decline in the second season. Just too hot for them, but boy do I love them. Raptures. Foxgloves are great too and will grow well via re-seeding provided they like their location. Surprising my Lobelia cardinalis is coming back gang-busters this spring. Lobelia is another plant that has to love it's location or it goes poof. It's growing on the back side of my pond in damp clay, partial morning/mid day sun. Full shade from afternoon sun. Next to several varieties of Joe Pye Weed (eupatorium). Also, great blue lobelia. QUESTIONS for the plant people. My Lousiana iris plant (Black Gamecock) is huge, but has never bloomed. All my other iris (Siberian, species, yellow flag, Japanese) bloom with no problems. Could it want a lower Ph? My soil is clay and tends to be 8.5 and the city water here is also 8.5. Rain is about 5.5 to 6.0 It started as one small fan and is now 3 feet tall and just as wide with many fans. It's lush looking. It is on the damp left side of the pond near my other pond marginals that do bloom (those listed above). I fertilize once per year in early spring with general purpose Miracle Grow, but maybe I should try Miracid or something else? I have an Endless Summer hydrangea nearby that blooms pink (as proof of the higher Ph). I need ideas - thanks. -Susan

Great pics of fronts & looks like you have the ID on most. I love ferns, too. I can't help you much as I'm from western WA with different ferns; however, I thought it might be helpful to remember what type of soil the ferns prefer... humus rich with some tolerating dryness once established. Also, fern growth is a mound & those might be a bit too close to the brick wall to mature into their lovely mounds. Some ferns here grow 12" crowns, so need a lot more space that it appears you've given them. Maybe you can go back to the woodland areas of your place to view the mature specimens growth & gather more forest humus for the new plantings. I've moved some of our native ferns from our backyard forest to inside the fenced area for a fuller native garden section. If I get a large enough rootball + the native soil & move them early in the season to get spring rains they thrive. I also mulch with lots of my bagged shredded maple leaves as they would have in the forest, but without the weed seeds :o). Some like licorice fern grow on rotting logs, so you must move the piece of log & it pulls off easily with your hands to set on top of humus rich soil in similar light conditions. If I move them later once we have dry summer weather I have to water them weekly and daily in 90 degree weather if I want them to make it. Maybe you can grow native wildflowers there, too. Ours mostly bloom in spring, so I also plant our native ferns in my mixed beds for contrast. Corrine

I'm no hybridizer, but I believe these are notes from someone who cross pollinated and grew out the resulting seedlings. I read it as the mother plant was Buckeye Vavoom crossed with "J. Fantasy" as the pollen contributor. [What "J. Fantasy" could stand for, I'm stumped. Anyone?] Bottom line is, you have a unique and quite pretty plant that you can call by whatever name you wish to give it. :-)