90% peat is going to be too acid. Have you any native soil? 70 % native/20 % compost/10 % pumice is going to be more like it.

If your humidity is high planting in 85F is fine. You just want to avoid them drying out before they can produce foliage. Partial shade (morning sun, afternoon shade) or dappled shade until the roots establish (a few months) would be helpful.

You are likely going to have to deal with blackspot disease if your temperatures are warm and your humidity is high, so be prepared to regularly spray a fungicide for that.

herbstonne, you might consider "mounding" them as is often done in harsher climates to keep them cool, dark and damp until there is new growth. hoovb's suggestion of partial shade is a good one, but with the warmth they're going to be exposed to, they might be triggered into premature growth before they develop sufficient roots. I have always potted bare roots and created cylinders of either cardboard or many layers of newspaper to fit inside the cans up to the tops of the canes. I fill the cylinders with potting soil, leaving the top inch or two of the canes exposed, then place them so they get some sun, but not all day, hot sun. Keep the pots, including the extra soil, watered as you normally would until you see new growth beginning to emerge from the cane ends. Gradually, over a period of a few weeks, remove the extra soil, unless you experience a week or so of rain and over cast conditions. Removing the extra soil to expose the canes to the elements works very well in a rainy period as they harden off and acclimate to the harsher conditions quickly when kept rain bathed. Funny how both mature plants, cuttings and rose seeds KNOW the difference between a hose and rain.

The plants can be stimulated into growth by heat as well as brighter light. The goal is to keep them cool, damp and dark until you have enough roots. Burying them in cylinders of soil in their cans until they "tell" you they are ready to grow should help you improve your chances significantly. That also goes for planting them in the ground as the moist soil helps prevent them from drying out until they can drink for themselves. Unless they're waxed, they can absorb water through the canes and leaves, just as they can loose it. Good luck! Kim

I agree with HoovB on the 90% peat/10% perlite soil formula -- that's going to be way too acidic. There is one local nursery here that sells what they brand "acid potting mix" that is composed of 50% peat and 50% perlite. I have used that once or twice for roses (when I ran out of other non-acid potting mixes), and it does work okay at those concentrations. So you may just want to put the perlite percentage way up and use that. It would probably be okay then.

Not just too acidic, Kathy, probably insufficient drainage. Peat is a neat medium, but it gets real wet and stays that way a long time. Then, it's difficult to rehydrate easily. It appears to me roses appreciate more acidic than too alkaline soil better. At least then they have some iron to use.

thank you for the advices
about the medium, if peat is too acid and insufficient drainage, I have planted them in pots for one week, should i take them out and change the medium now?
another question, new shoots come out like crazy, only after one week, there are more than 20 new buds on each plant, should I remove them before the rose plants are established?

hoovb, the humidity is about 70% in my area

A week is much too soon for there to be any new feeder roots under the plants. I'm afraid if left unchecked, the plants will try to leaf out, flower and collapse. You'll often see that in cuttings for propagation, too.

I honestly would make cylinders of something stiff enough to permit you to fill them nearly to the tops of the canes with potting soil so you keep the canes cool, dark and damp until you see real growth, the type you expect to see in spring after pruning. Then, gradually uncover the canes to permit the new growth to harden off to the more severe heat, light and humidity than they had under damp soil. Your plants budding out so quickly after planting is exactly like the bare roots in the plastic body backs breaking dormancy and exploding into growth on a store's shelves until they use all the available, stored energy in the canes and collapse.

You COULD cut off the new growth, but at what benefit and cost? You can slow them, check their growth, by making them dark, cool and damp without losing much of the new growth. What is to prevent the guard buds on either side of the primary ones now growing from breaking into growth for the same reasons the primary ones are growing?

hi roseseek, thanks for your generous advices.
I will follow your advices, put some soil up to canes, but the problem is the david austin roses are waxed, so should i remove all the wax?
the roses i planted in pots, now I have moved them to my room, it is cooler and darker here under the roof.

Hi Tobias, you're very welcome. If I understand you correctly that you've moved them indoors, I wouldn't. There is less humidity indoors and it won't cool off as much at night. If you keep them covered in soil and in the shade as hoovb suggested, you'll find it easier to keep them watered and have a lot less mess. Inside, I would be concerned with bacteria and fungi you probably don't want in your room.

You'll probably do more harm than good trying to remove the wax from the plants. I'd just treat them all the same and wait for them to begin growing solid, vigorous, healthy looking growth. It can be difficult trying to bring them out of dormancy in the controlled method needed with the heat you're having. Good luck! Kim

thanks again Kim

kstrong, today I tested the ph value of the peat moss, its ph value is 6, not so acidic, now i only worry about the drainage