First tree IS PLC. Minorly affected. And some nitrogen deficiency. Fertilize and spray more during the dormant season. One of my nectarines, 'Desert Delight' does this, despite getting sprayed. It often misses the last spraying, as it breaks bud first of all my stone fruits. Not sure about the large split down the trunk - could be due to irregular watering, could be disease related. Tree 2: Not sure that's bacterial canker. Water, fertilize with a higher nitrogen fertilizer and mulch under the tree (keeping the mulch away from the trunk of course). Let's see if we can save the tree, first. Send your photos to your local Master Gardeners or extension office, and let's see what they have to say. Keep us posted. Patty S.

Red maple is considered to be fairly tolerant of soil conditions, moisture levels in the soil and of the winter lows we get in southern Canada - so it's not likely to be anyt of those things that have harmed or killed your tree. What is the nature of the wound? Does it circle the trunk, or is it a vertical split? Circling the trunk is probably critter damage, and if half the cicumference of the trunk or more is damaged the tree may have difficulty recovering, and might be killed. A vertical split that occured over the winter is probably frost cracking or sunscald. Young maples are particularly susceptable to sunscald. Sunscald is basically a bark injury and the tree will usually quickly recover. Frost cracking is caused by rapid fluctuations in temperature allowing water in the tree to freeze and split the tree - frost cracking can be quite deep. Fertilizing the tree in the late summer or early fall, before the leaves drop, can make frost cracking more likely. Your tree might be dead or it might be just injured. Look at the buds - they were set last year - are they swelling at all? They should be if they are getting any sap from the tree. If they are the same size they were last fall, then that's not a good sign. If they are swelling then the tree is just being slow - it might have lost its first set of buds if it started to leaf out early and then had them killed by a freeze. If that's the case the tree is generally capeable of producing a second set of buds and leaves, but it is hard on the tree, and it takes time. Measure the buds now. Check in a week and compare them to your measurements to see if they're swellling. Give it another month and if there is no sign of the tree returning to life then it it probaby a goner. There is some controversy about treating wounds with dressings of any kind. Several recent studies show they have little or no effect, and recommend the tree be left to heal on its own (particularly if it is a rapidly growing young tree). Previously it was held that the wound was a potential entry point for insects or diseases, there is some belief now that many wound dressings encourage them. Unless you had a known infestation of any kind, it'd be best to let the tree heal itself when possible. Another thing to consider in the possible causes of your tree dying or doing poorly, is how did you plant it? When you dug the hole for the tree, did you add anything (compost, black earth, etc...)into that original soil you replaced when you filled in the hole? That's a very common mistake, and is one of the leading causes of death of young trees. The hole should have been filled only with the soil you took out, and no amendments added. Also, September is getting late to be planting trees. The tree will be starting to go dormant and the disruption from the planting will have encouraged some new growth at a very bad time, especially if you fertilized it when you planted it. Good luck - I hope your tree makes it, but it doesn't sound good. BP

Thank you, Linda. I was a little fearful of bleach, and had found an article recommending hydrogen peroxide (3%) and water. I dabbed it carefully, and it took away most of the stain. Then I took the bleach pen as you suggested, and very carefully dabbed it on the remaining stain. Between the two methods--Success! there is a slight lightening of the wood around where the stains were, but I have oiled it, and it seems to be evening out a bit. probably with time...

The overall health of the tree looks fine - I see no obvious signs of disease. Tip growth die back or wilting of the foliage on terminal branch ends is not uncommon with maples and usually attributable to cultural (growing) conditions, like water stress, unusual weather events, mechanical damage, etc. I seriously doubt you have much to worry about.........unless this is a very early indication of something more pathogenic, which is why I suggested monitoring the tree. But it currently resembles nothing more sinister than what has been discussed and no treatment at this time is advised.