these trees are now 7 years old. one has barely grown. because of saturated ground this spring one of the bigger trees fell over. I could have propped it back up but instead I let it die. in seven years I've seen about 20 blossoms & 6 cherries. these trees are kindling. I might try 2 new cherry trees from a nursery. i've heard not all cherry trees do well in this area. there's a starks about an hour from here. they should stock something that will do well here. the other 4 trees will replaced by apples & pears. as far as pollination these trees are within 25' of 12 bee hives. on another note it was looking like I'd be having a bumper crop of peaches. the trees so laden I was planning building props to hold up the limbs. well with record spring rains all the trees came down with brown rot. I did not get 1 friggin' peach.

Anney, I have just explored Dr. Dirt's site re using cornmeal as a plant fungicide. As usual he is giving incomplete advice. He takes ideas posted on GardenWeb and that other gardening Forum we can't mention here and gives them his own spin omitting important information. To date, after much experimentation, I have not had success controlling any tomato diseases/blights/fungus using cornmeal. Some have reported good results but I am not been able to. For those who would like to try a cornmeal tea do a search here on GW for Cornmeal Tea to find formulas I have posted. Also do a search for Aspirin Technique which has been my personal best, cheap remedy to date. Some claim it is not organic but to date aspirin has been certified safe for human consumption. The IMPORTANT part of attempting to control tomato problems with WHATEVER one chooses to use is to begin treatment EARLY in the tomato's growth...when the plant has grown a second set of true leaves is a good time to begin.

Konrad my comment was directed at the advice in the first post by OP, not yours, sorry, it was unclear. I meant the advice that allen was given (prune red raspberries every year to 12 to 18 inches. Or mow them down) was not exactly correct. Sorry for the confusion. I have for years harvested a 2nd crop, and the fruit is wonderful, so that advice you found is incorrect. It's as good as any summer fruiting type. I say floricanes are floricanes weather from Summer or everbearing. I defy anybody to tell the difference. If you have done it, you know I'm correct. Are floricane crops no good on primocane fruiting blackberries or black raspberries? Of course not, same with everybearing raspberries. "harvesting the early summer second-year crop is difficult because of interference from new primocanes." Now that is funny, what about summer bearing? Is this not a problem? Handle them the same way you would manage summer bearing primocanes and floricanes. An everbearing raspberry plant REALLY is a primocane fruiting Summer bearing raspberry plant. Some harvest a 2nd crop "If you grow fall-bearing raspberries for an early-summer crop and a fall crop, then prune back the plants after the first small harvest in summer." http://homeguides.sfgate.com/afterharvest-care-raspberries-62059.html Everbearing red raspberries produce berries from midsummer to fall on the new season’s growth (called “primocanes”). Bud-bearing canes that survive winter also bear light crops in late spring http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/fruits/growing-raspberries-zm0z12onzkon.aspx Some do believe the summer crop hurts the plants, but IMHO that is nonsense, as stated they are really just primocane fruiting summer bearing raspberries. As is the Ark series of blackberries. Or the Niwot black raspberry that bears a fall primocane crop. I typically get about 300 raspberries per plant for the summer harvest, about the same for the fall crop.. Maybe less? The summer crop uses 2/3 of the cane, so on everbearing the summer crops are typically larger. Those stating they are smaller, never did it. I can't explain it another way? I have done it for years. Here is Fall Gold with a summer crop on floricanes. The plants grow numerous laterals and fruits like crazy. The floricanes are on the right. The new primocanes are on the left, completely out of the way. I have found when you keep the floricanes, the new primocanes tend to come up AWAY from existing floricanes. Their is one primocane behind them, most on the left. By July 15th floricanes are finished and removed, and out of the way. So the cane behind them did fine. Maybe some cultivars do not perform well like this? I have Himbo Top, Fall Gold, Double Gold, Crimson Night, Anne, Kiwi Gold, Caroline, and Polka and take a 2nd crop on all of them. All do fairly well with the 2nd crop. For Summer bearing where I also have to manage primocanes and floricanes together I have Prelude, Encore, Taylor, Honey Queen, and Cascade Gold. I also have to manage both cane types with all of my blackberries, and Jewel, Allen, and the primocane fruiting Niwot black raspberry. For blackberries I have Triple Crown, Black Diamond, Loch Ness, Siskiyou, Marion, Boysen, Navaho, Columbia Star, Chester, Natchez, Newberry, Tayberry, Wyeberry, Nettleton's Creamy White, and Burbank's White.

Parker,I have been thinking of the same thing too--about the cold, particularly about the damage that was caused to it in 2010. I think the fertility of the tree might have been greatly compromised because otherwise the foliage growth seems to be prolific. In fact, I have had to trim off the branches every year up to 3 ft from their tips. Trying to keep it from growing taller and broader was a chore .. lol. Right now, it stands at least at 16 ft if not 18 ft. This all happened after the tree died down to 1/3 of its original size. Before the freeze, it was about 6-7 ft tall. I think something weird must have happened that made this tree to behave in a way that is most unpredictable. My other lychee trees although are slow in catching up, they do eventually put up a show of a full crown blooms. This year, I'm so happy to see my Hap Ip and Sweet Heart in full blooms. I'm thankful that my Brewster regularly fruits, although it seems to be showing a year of heavy alternate with a year of light bloom. This year, it's going on a light bloom mode. Anyway, I'm keeping my fingers crossed that all will go well as I also have to keep down the web worm infestation. So far, the BT we're spraying seems to be working. It's not a chemical, but a kind of a bacterium culture that the larvae from the web worm feed on. It makes them sick so they'll stop eating the young floral parts. They have been eating my Sweetheart every year until we found this wonderful spray. We're also spraying it on our mangoes as they also attack them. If you keep some lychees in your yard, it would be nice if you share pix of some of your plants.