Hi Mirenda - well, the promised temperature drop has happened here in the UK with lashing north/easterly winds. Although you have been in Ireland for some time, I really had to laugh when you commented on mild winters in October. As you say, we had snow, this time last year while I have been picking raspberries until late November in some seasons. All goes to illustrate the vagaries of a temperate maritime climate - we gets lots of (short term) variation but never those extremes which afflict places like Kansas, Illinois and other exotic (to me) locales where temperatures rage between boiling and freezing across the gardening year. So, whats happening to mine? Although my pots are still green, they are more or less static in that not a leaf has changed over the last month - only the hulthemias are still hopefully producing buds while all my others are definitely winding down. As for watering, until a couple of weeks ago, daily watering was a given but now, shifting into cooler weather, I tend to let the plants dictate their needs and hold off on the watering cans until it is obvious (by crinkly leaves) that some is needed. I can go for days or even weeks without filling a can. Trust your eyes, Mirenda - if the roses look OK, they are OK. They do not lose their leaves like trees, but drop foliage gradually over the whole winter, caused more by winds and rain rather than the very straightforward leaf-shedding in deciduous trees. I don't know whereabouts you are in Ireland but if anywhere near the west coast, you can probably stash the watering equipment till next spring and let the misty Irish climate do the work for you. Even here, in the arid east of england, I heave a sigh of relief that the incessant watering becomes less urgent.

I realize this thread is a week old but I wanted to offer my input. I think seysonn might be missing what mckenziek is asking. Mckenzies is asking how to figure out which zone is local when factoring in elevation (which zip code maps ignore to a large degree) of your specific location. For example: I live on top of a hill near Marysville, WA (98270 zip) at around 600 feet elevation. If I plug my zip code into a map tool, I usually get a hardiness zone of 7b. Now, I have 2 separate digital weather stations at my house with outside thermometers located at opposite ends of the property. I have watched (and actually logged) my daily temperatures and I know for a fact that if intellicast or one of the other weather forecast sites says a low of 38, my weather stations will almost always register a low several degrees lower (elevation) and likewise, my highs will often be a few degrees above the official airport weather station's measurement. This is probably due to a combination of elevation and other micro-climate effects. To answer Mckenziek's true question, there may be a broad brush calculator that figures out the local zone including the elevation but I seriously doubt it due to micro climates. I suggest getting a good thermometer or two and actually doing the measurements yourself for a year. If you do that, you'll be able to get a feel for the specific temperature extremes and you can use your localize annual low to determine the true zone number. You'll need to do this several years to get a decent sample size but you'll get a bit of an instinctive feel for it in the process.

Be positive gals, we are going to have a mild winter, we are going to have a mild winter, we are going to have a mild winter like we did last year ;) So far the weather here is awesome, +31C yesterday, today +30C! There is a hardy species called GLADIOLUS imbricatus, I bought seed from the last sale Gardens North had on. Native from Europe to the Caucasus and Turkey. An absolutely hardy species of Gladiolus with lovely purplish-red flowers. Occurs naturally in fertile, wet meadows. For a sunny spot in rich, well drained soil, moist in spring. Germination Instructions: Cold treatment required. Sharon

Typically our fall colors are governed by cold weather during the first two weeks of October, which is when fall foliage appears and peaks. If we do not get frost during that time, sugar maple leaf colors do not progress much past the golden/orange colors into the brilliant reds. With recent warmer temperatures extending well into November and December, our fall foliage hasn't been what it used to be these past few years. Climate change at work. I don't believe there is any correlation between cold or snow in spring and when leaves change color and fall off the trees in the fall. Strong winds in October, of course, will blow many of the colorful leaves off the trees before their time, resulting in a shortened foliage season. Most gardeners here in New England plant hardy flowers, or else prepare to cover up, or bring more tender annuals into their garages, sheds, or houses, if an unexpected frost comes. Tough flowers like daffodils or snowdrops will bloom in the snow, while other perennials do not rear their heads until warmer weather appears. Still there is always the possibility of weather damage to trees and shrubs from storms bringing winds and heavy wet snow breaking branches of shrubs and trees from the weight. A good snow cover on the ground all winter is a protective insulator for plants and trees, and again, these past mostly snowless winters have been hard on some of our growing things, In the early spring, cold nights are necessary for the sap to run, but maple sugaring is whole other issue. I hope if you do visit my state, you luck into a great foliage season. It is something to see! It might just convince you to move here, so welcome if you do! I, on the other hand, have never been to the west coast, and I hope to someday. The farthest west I have ever been was Phoenix, Arizona. A lot of natural beauty there too, very different from New England!