First off, the rose looks like a healthy, happy bush. Prune it down to gut, waist high. I would start looking for another bush for the other side of your door. Second, over in the "photo gallery" section you will see a lot of rose photo's. There is also a lady from Virginia that grows a LOT of roses. You'll see her rose photo's over there. See if you can contact her and I'm sure she will be glad to help you in any way she can. It's always good to have someone from your general area to help. Don't forget, in a new rose bush you want something that will grow like yoor rose and a color that will flow.

Looks like honeysuckle (Lonicera) branches in the second photo. In your first photo, I'm seeing rose branches with leaves near the roof of the bay windows as well as rose branches without leaves near the top of the nearest post that holds the trellis, some of which can been seen near the top of that post in the second photo. Leafless rose branches spotted near the curve of the gutter downspout & possibly extending above the roof line. The honeysuckle has oblong pairs of leaves at intervals along the stems. The rose has the twiggier, more jagged stems. Hard to see the base of the trellis from your shot, but best guess is the rose is near the center & the honeysuckle planted by the driveway end of the trellis. You can trace a branch of each down to the base to determine which is which. Photos of the base of the plants & close-ups of the rose & (possibly) honeysuckle stems would help with identification of each. When did the rose bloom last year, did it have fragrance, how large were the flowers & were they in clusters? Anything else you remember about what grows on your trellis? Close-ups & any details of blooming you recall will help with ID's. Once you have an idea of who you have there, an informed way forward will be easier to find. This post was edited by vasue on Mon, Jan 5, 15 at 17:59

I need to irrigate if I want the trees to be vigorous enough to grow and, if it was my intention, to produce fruit. I use these bags in my bearing age fruit tree nursery and the first bag I used was Whitcomb's original invention, which he does not own the patent for. They are popular with west coast nurseries and manufactured in Oregon, It think. They work fine with drip irrigation and have a very dwarfing affect on fruit trees the way pots do. His second inground bag invention is completely different. It is constructed of a knitted fabric with visible holes that allow much more root to escape the bag. The roots do break easily when you dig up the trees and the roots on the inside of the bag are supposed to store a lot of extra carbohydrate because of being somewhat restricted by the bag and establish well with much less soil than BandB'd trees. The original black bags are the ticket if you are trying to constrict growth. I use them for my fig trees so I can easily move them inside in the winter. They do require less fuss than above ground pots and allow you to use soil instead of potting soil so you can grow more tree in fewer square inches of medium. Of course, only volume is reduced- not weight.

Hi everyone, I decided to email David Austin about the Mill on the floss and thought I'd share the answer here: In relation to your question the size which you can see on our website or in our handbook of roses is the average size which the rose can reach without the pruning. The shrub rose "The Mill on the Floss" as an example can reach around 4,5ft in high and around 4-4,5 on the width. Generally we do recommend to prune the roses every year as it helps them to thrive but pruning is also removal of weak, dead and diseased stems but the main purpose of pruning is to create a shapely, attractive shrub with good structure. We do recommend to cut back stems by 1/2, if the rose is a repeat flowering shrub. Because the rose "Mill on the Floss" is a quite new rose from 2018 our experts discovered with a time that the rose can be bred as a short climber as well but they need a good sunny position to achieve 6-8ft. In the first year, when the plant is still establishing, we recommend to prune lightly, leaving about two thirds of the shrub. So it looks like the stated size does not take pruning into account. It's interesting that given ideal conditions, it may grow much taller as well.