Roses that I have grown in zone 3-report
edmonton83
13 years ago
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prairiemoon2 z6b MA
13 years agomichaelg
13 years agoRelated Discussions
What have you successfully grown in Zone 7 during Dec, Jan & Feb?
Comments (8)I'm in a colder zone, but it's the arid Southwest, so we have sun almost all winter, and any small protected space will warm up nicely every day. So here's what I do. I have beds 3 and 4 feet wide. I bend 1/2 inch PVC pipe, 10 foot lengths, over the beds and stick the pipe about 6 inches into the soil on either side. In past years I covered these pipes with painter's drop cloths (clear plastic, that is, not canvas) and clipped them on with bull-nose clips from BizMart. But they can overheat in the sun, so this year I am using heavy weight garden fleece (I found some 14'x14'and trim it a bit to fit). This set-up looks like a gardening Canestoga Wagon. Call it a low tunnel. Right now my main low tunnel is still providing carrots from my August planting. However, as I pull carrots, I drop a lettuce seed or spinach seed in the disturbed soil, about one every 6 inches. Spring radishes would be another seed to plant now, and mache and claytonia, which do well in REALLY cold weather. Even if the seeds don't sprout and grow right now, they will sprout and grow VERY EARLY in the new year with just a little cover like the low tunnel. In my low tunnel, I then also put a layer of the thinner garden fleece row cover right on the plants themselves, as added protection when the weather gets colder. I also have a window planter and two hanging pots under there right now, planted with lettuce in September. When the cold weather looks likely to really hit (like this weekend, when temps are supposed to drop to 20 and lower), those pots are coming into the kitchen. If you can't find lettuce transplants now, a neighbor turned me onto this idea: buy a couple of heads of the expensive hydroponic lettuce that still has the roots on, sold in a clamshell with the roots curled up in the bottom. Use the lettuce without cutting the growing bud in the center. Then pot it up and put it in a south-facing window. Granted, I never got enough for a big salad this way, but we always had a few leaves to add crunch to sandwiches in the dead of winter. Finally, even if you don't want to do all this now, not having planted your fall garden in August or September, don't give up! Prepare a bed that you will be able to get to in January and February (I have a bed right in front of my south-facing house for this, yes, right by the front walk). Put up the PVC pipe ribs now, before the soil is frozen. Then in January, when you are DYING to get into the garden, put the plastic cover on, sprinkle a little wood ash on the snow inside (if you have snow) to encourage solar melting, and get ready to plant when the soil peeks out. Unclip one side of your low tunnel and pull the cover back, you'll be surprised how warm it is inside! If the soil is really wet, just put seeds on the surface and cover with a little pile of potting soil. Don't plant the whole thing at once, of course. One day you can plant a few radishes, another day plant a few spinach, and so on. They will take longer to sprout that later plantings, but you'll have extra-early spring greens! In the future, when you plan and plant your winter garden in July, August or September, you can probably have cole-family crops outside all winter (cabbage, kale, collards, broccoli, etc), leeks, and then under a single cover (not two layers like mine) spinach, lettuce, winter radishes, etc. Read Eliot Coleman's Four Season Harvest for more info. Catherine...See MoreMad Diary of Zone Busting in Zone 3 ...The End is a Long Way Away
Comments (7)Oh my. What is a passionate rose lover like you doing in that glacial hell hole? Reading about your endeavors has exhausted me and I haven't even lifted a shovel. I admire your grit and determination, but would love to see you rewarded with thousands of blooms on your rose bushes for all your hard work. I bet they could use engineers in zones 7 to 10!...See MoreP. Vivax, have you grown it in zone 5 or 6?
Comments (7)I guess that's pretty good for henon, but I have boos like parvifolia, atrovaginata, dulcis, & propinqua beijing which have gotten close to powerline height, breaking the 10ft mark after 2 years, atrovaginata which has broken 13ft, so I think those species are more appropiate for a cool climate. After 8 years and still being well under 20ft, that may be the extent of it's potential in zone 6 if it top kills each winter, but I really don't know. I've seen a yellow groove culm at 27ft where I got my division from which is not even a completely mature grove yet since it is still gaining height from year to year. Even YG which is a medium sized bamboo can break the 30ft mark here. I have seen a well maintained green phyllostachys which looked like Vivax with a high branching pattern while driving which had to be in the 35-40ft range, spread of around 20ft, with culms close to the 3 inch mark, but I'm pretty positive it's one of the species I already have so I never bothered to go back there, find out who they were to try and ask for a dig. I don't have a large enough vehicle to move anything that size anyways. Anyways I think either parvifolia or atrovaginata must be the ones with potential to hit the 40ft mark in zone 6 after many years of growth. Has anyone in zone 6 ever seen bamboos beyond the 30-40ft range or is that pretty much the maximum? If I saw a 70+ footer in zone 6, I would have no choice but go for a dig even if I had to rent a trailer....See MoreRoses that I have grown in zone 3-report
Comments (27)I personally have at about 5000ft elev in SW Montana: 1)William Baffin - reachingabout 10' now after 10 years, up and over an archway, with Clematis "Bluebird" threatening to take it over each summer! Low care, rarely dead to cut out, no spray, annual feeding of composted manure and annual Bayer Tree and Shrub application. 2) Adelaide Hoodless: Never much die back but i cut it back pretty hard becasue it is a flopper otherwise - 3-4 ft H & W, a nice recurrent red. 3) Champlain: Took them all out last year - one of the prettiest hardy everblooming reds but two years of dieback followed by recurrent bouts of powdery mildew means they can't stay in my postage stamp size of a garden... 4) Flower Girl: a floribunda with minimal dieback and pretty clusters of baby pink single flowers. to 2 ft. No disease issues. 5) David Austin's Gertrude Jeckyll: Dies back some years but rebounds well to 3-3.5ft and the fragrance from these large mauve blossoms is out of this world!!!! 6) Rosa glauca - red leaf rose to 8 ft H That foliage, those hips!!!! 7) Austrian Copper - a bugger with black spot but needed the orange in that spot - it will go when I expand the grape arbor! 8) John Franklin - a lovely red with the sweetest form in bud and flower, nice clean foliage and overall shape. I don't grow any of the rugosa hybrids that have the matte foliage such as hansa and Belle Poitevin - the flowers are gorgeous but they are particularly resentful of our alkaline soils, even with heavy ammending. That is my current inventory but I have grown others in this area: a quick list...Bonica - lt pink,Graham Thomas - a DA yellow, Henry Kelsey - red climber, Knock out - red, any of the Morden series, Winnipeg Parks - rosy pink with good foliage, Therese Bugnet - nice pink but sometime chlorotic... Looking to try Starry Night as I don't currently have a white and maybe add another DA or 2! happy rose growing to all!...See Moresage_co
13 years agoedmonton83
13 years agomontana_rose
13 years agoedmonton83
13 years agoedmonton83
13 years agomnkitty
13 years agoedmonton83
13 years ago
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