will the sand affect my pond life? Yes, but probably not a lot. Certain kinds of life, animal and plant, will make the sand home if they make it to your pond. What plant life should I add to feed my fish and welcome in other wildlife like frogs and dragonflies? That really depends on the person. I like to add any plant I can and see how it does. It stays if I like it. That's how I learn. So for me I'd try any plant, and I'd try it different ways...in water, in soil, in sun, in shade, etc., to learn how it grows. Duckweed is a plant fish will eat directly, but after they've eaten it all it's gone. So if you want an on going duckweed food source you have to protect some or easier imo is growing it in a separate shallow pond. But a more important food source is all the life in a pond, mainly insects. They eat the plants and the fish eat the insects. So all plants really feed fish indirectly. Dead, rotting plant material feeds insects the best. But many people don't like that in their pond...so it's really best to decide what kind of pond you want...Wildlife Pond, Water Garden or Koi Pond. That determines how plants are used. You can try one and if you don't like it you can change to another pretty easy or some pond in between. the water looks a little murky. (BONUS QUESTION) Is there any way to clean that up? It's pretty simple to clear up water but only after you know what's causing it to be murky which is the complex part. There are lots of filters and methods to removing different things so the filter has to be matched to the stuff being removed. One pretty universal murky clear is a 24/7 drip water change system. A drip emitter runs 24/7 into the pond and an overflow takes away the extra water. I plan on heading over to a local park nearby and yanking out a couple of cattails and whatever else I find interesting, I highly doubt it's illegal and the poor little stream that leads to the enormous carp pond is choking with all the vegetation. (OH! I know that these plants will probably have other bacteria and algae and critters on or in it, is there any way to clean them without killing them? There are chemical baths you can use, including chlorine and similar oxidizers. They aren't super effective imo. The question is do you want to do that or are all these critters something you want? You see this goes back to deciding what kind of pond you want. A Koi Pond owner with thousands of dollars worth of koi would never allow any plant within 10' of their pond. Their focus is koi and the risk of pathogen form plant would be unacceptable. At the other end of the pond spectrum a Wildlife Pond owner would welcome all those "pathogens". It's a matter of perspective. To these pond keepers "pathogen" is just another name for "life". That's what natural ponds are, life. Stuff killing and eating other stuff. I want to make sure the plants are settled before getting fish, but I heard that a certain string? Algae is a pain to get rid of, does that grow in zone 9?) You don't get rid of algae, you control it. Just like you weed a garden. Algae grows in all zones, from the poles to the equator. There are thousands of species. ...since I live in zone 9 in one of the cities that borders the Rio Grande, Does anyone have any recommendations for the type of plants I might want to scavenge for, how to transport and transplant them from the stream into my pond, and what no-no plants I should try to avoid? Giant Reed, Arundo donax, is a spectacular plant you can probably find. It's an aggressive grower, makes bamboo look like Pussy Willow. I don't believe there is such a thing as a no-no plant. They're plants, you're a human. I have to assume you can win any battle. Ponds are just like any garden. If you tend it you win. If you go away and come back in a year the plants win. (If I find any I kind of want some duckweed... is this a no-no plant? Will keeping the growth at bay turn into an overwhelming hassle for my medium-small sized pond?) Depends on how much hassle you consider keeping a pond is. For me it's a joy. And whether your fish.eat it. I want goldfish!! I hear commits are really friendly, but what other species can I add? Can someone supply a list? Oh, and how many can I add? (I was thinking about 6-8 fish total) Common, Comets, Shubunkin, Wakin. The fancy kinds can look a little out of place. I've had some of these because friends need to get rid of "pets" sometimes. They look a little odd to me when mixed with other kinds. Like when you feed them the others swim over fast and the Fantail seems to struggle to swim 10'. But the fancy ones seemed to do fine but need exact protection from streams, skimmers, etc., as they're not strong swimmers.. The Common, Comets and Shubunkin are also often crossed. Like a Comets and Shubunkin to get a Shubunkin with a long tail. Commons get the biggest, more than 12" and over 3' sometimes although these may be koi crosses. (Even numbers so they can have a buddy system, but not like Nohas ark, they can only be friends!! No babies!!... okay maybe a few so I can add them to future smaller water features around the garden...) You can post a sign explaining breeding rules but goldfish are either not very good readers or not very good rule followers (even worst than teenagers). which leads me to the after thought question... Can different species of goldfish mate? I mean.. they are still goldfish... Yes. When different kinds of goldfish breed the result is considered a goldfish too. Goldfish can also breed with koi. I know that bottom feeders won't eat all the gunk that will eventually fill the bottom, (I can't blame them) But are there any fish that I can add that will eat the bottom pellets? (Like catfish maybe, or something cooler/cuter) Pellets, as in sinking food pellets? Goldfish, koi, catfish, pretty much any fish will eat food on the bottom. There are terms like "bottom feeder" but that's just a general type thing. Like catfish will spend most of their time on the bottom but will eat food on the surface just like a goldfish or koi. And they will come a running when they see you just like goldfish and koi. As for gunk...bacteria lives there, bugs too which eat the bacteria, bigger bugs that eat the smaller bugs and fish root around in there looking for bugs to eat. It's a whole cycle thing. Gunk on the pond bottom is basically soil, or stuff on it's way to becoming soil. Nothing removes it completely, just like nothing removes soil completely. Stuff lives in it, eats some growing in it, breaks it down into better and better soil (from a plant's perspective). Oh, and is Walmart a smart place to buy these babies at? (I'm sure most are familiar with the store...) My only other option is PetCo... Are they a good option? I don't want to buy bad fish... but I would feel terrible if I had to take a fish back because it was sick or it got the others sick... There not really anything like a "good" store to by goldfish. Here's how it wroks. The store orders fish from a grower. The grower has a bunch of ponds with different kinds of fish. The grower puts a bunch of fish into a box and sends it to the store. The store dumps the box of fish into a big tank. An employee gets a net and scoops out a few of the the prettier fish and puts these into separate tanks. Like for instance some Shubunkins would go into a tank labeled "Shubunkin $4.95". And some orange and white Comets will often be labeled "Sarasa $4.95" even though they aren't actually Sarasa. The rest in the big tank are labeled "Feeder Goldfish 20 for $1". When customers buy $4.95 fishes the clerks grab a net and scoop a few more nicer looking fish out of the feeder tank and into the $4.95 tanks. People just assume when they see 10 fish in a nice aquarium at eye level that they must be higher quality and healthier fish than the horrible feeder fish tank. It's just marketing and logistics. You can often find very nice looking Shubunkins and Comets in the feeder tank. It just depends on what they get in. Growers don't care since it's just as easy to grow Commons or Comets or Shubunkins. They'll send whatever they have. The fancy goldfish may be shipped in separate containers. This is not to say all fish are healthy. In my experience 50% of feeder fish died in the first 24 hours. And in most stores they also don't last long either. Yes, you can quarantine them, you can treat them for parasites, etc. Depends on the kind of pond you want to keep. Most ponds I've had I only used feeder goldfish. Set up a quarantine tank and buy $10 worth of meds to treat $1 worth of fish...not me. I just put them into the pond and hope for the best. But that's me. I do want to hand feed my fish. I know the risks of them getting hurt by other animals but I have 3 small dogs that scare away all cats and wild animals, but are really just yapping balls of harmless fur. Pretty much all kinds of fish can be trained to be hand fed. Takes them a few times to get the idea but once they do they're trained. The 3 small dogs...I hate to impugn the K9 reputation for diligence but all that yapping..yeah, that's mostly for your benefit. When you're not around and the Herons are having brunch the dogs are really unlikely to do more than blink at the carnage. The Herons aren't hurting anything...it's not like they're doing something horrible like squeezing a squeaky toy. They're just eating all of your fish. Big woop. Now if the dogs happen to hear you at the front door then sure, they'll be off like a rocket to tear that Heron a new beak, jumping through plate glass windows, busting down doors, whatever it takes to impress you and keep those treats flowing.

Pudge, Actually, it's kind of a funny but it's unlikely that most of the rocks you're seeing are really "from" your area. Most of the rocks we see at surface on the prairies were actually transported from large distances away by the movements of the glaciers... (Same where I grew up in central Sask... strange that one would become a geologist in the relative absence of rocks! Or of outcrops, at least!) I believe the nearest outcrops of in-situ bedrock (i.e. older than glacial age; exposed at the surface) would be up along the Hanson Lake Road area, approaching The Pas, and in the Shield area to the east and southeast, and in the Cypress Hills to the west...(I'll have to check this, against a map of Saskatchewan geology, though, to be sure that there isn't some pre-glacial strata outcropping in the river valleys in the area.) So, anyway, the rocks you see in the fields, and in the young glacial deposits that are dug up as gravel pits (after being eroded/transported and weathered down into gravel), were generally transported by glacial action, generally from the Shield area. So, the rocks you see are likely to be a mix of sedimentary, volcanic and metamorphic, since they were picked up across the vast terrain along which the glaciers moved. Yes, it's very likely that some of your rocks are granite or other volcanics, others are metamorphic (schist, gneiss), some are sedimentary (limestone, sandstone); the quartz cobbles or boulders could have had a variety of origins (may have been weathered out of very-coarsely crystalline volcanic rock, or from fracture-filling; or sedimentary from fillings of cavities, or metamorphic from recrystallization of sandstone). The sparkly ones may be schist, a metamorphic rock containing abundant flat, shiny crystals (biotite and muscovite) that are all aligned by heat and pressure and folding. Anyway, that may be a little more than you wanted to know, LOL! Sorry, I can't think of a good website offhand for rock ID but I'll think about it and ask at work...

I garden on 3 country acres that have lots of sloped spots. We have worked with what was there and have not terraced. We have put in two sets of stairs on our steep slope (like yours but wider and shorter from top to bottom). One set of steps is brick and 3 ft. cement pavers: the other is a wooden staircase with a landing and change of direction. (Wet wood can be slick). I can't say enough good things about groundcovers and I am happy with some that smaller, flatter gardens do not need. 1.First I would push yellow Archangel--Lamiastrum galeobdolon- green and silver foliage with yellow May blooms. It looks wonderful with daffodills or other spring bulbs pushing up through it. Part to full shade. I got mine free at a Community plant exchange years ago. It took on a steep slope like yours that was covered with poison ivy, tree of heaven and nettles!! 2. Lamiastrum Herman's pride-- less aggressive.-same colors 3. Lamium--I have White Nancy, and Beacon Silver--part shade. There are other colors. 4. Vinca--It sort of just comes. When it comes with gift plant or appears in my perennial border, I always have a needy place to put it. Can be sheared. Shade 5. Lysimachia nummularia--Creeping Jenny. The golden form is sold for ground cover or container planting. The green form comes around here by itself where ground is moist. Both can be useful.Sun or shade. 6. Ajuga--any and all. Bronze/purple ones are good for color contrasting with burgundy foliaged stuff. 7. Waldensia--Barren Strawberry--mostly a weed but an interesting one for smaller space carpeting. Yellow flowers, red no-edible "strawberries" 8. Ferns 9. Violets--weeds in perennial border, welcome on hills. On West-facing slope with 4-6+ hours sun.(4th year) 1. clumps of ornamental grass across top of hill. Need shearing in spring. 3 clumps of grasses on slope. Tricky to shear in spring but very helpful in look, either from distance or from windows above. 2. Swaths of black-eyed susans (near base of slope) 3.Swaths of cluster bell flower (near base) 4. Common purple cone-flower--swath slanting up hill. 5. Meadow sage (half up) 6. Yarrow gold plate(Near grasses at top of hill 7. Ox-eye daisy--near base 8. Gooseneck lysimachia (this has not done very well because soil is too dry to encourage it much. In addition, without my interference, dry land forget me nots, columbine, vernonia, perennial yellow foxglove, and ladybells have "come". Some live in other parts of property. Some of these are not technically groundcovers but they increase by root and self-seeding, can be left with seeds to attract birds, can be weed-whipped. It's been some work to establish but each year gets easier.

Hi flowerpower and "Many Welcomes" to the Garden Web Forums. I lived North of TSV for about 6 years, 6 years ago and started off a new garden on a one and a quarter acre block, which was near Toolakea Beach and very sandy soil there. Blue couch would be the best lawn as buffalo needs too much water and thats something you dont get up there is rain. If its natives you want to grow I cannot help you very much as all the grevilleas I grew there did not survive. The only way you are going to get good soil is to keep adding compost and animals manures I would work the soil first and get it a bit better before planting anything as its heart breaking when they just die, so prepare your soil first, grow a cover crop I used to grow cow peas in it ( you can get them at the produce store in Flinders Street ) if its still there, then just dig them in, start a compost pile it wont take long to mature in that heat. I use to buy most of my trees at the Sunday Market there was a guy who used to grow heaps of natives and exotics and cheap they were too, also try the Showgrounds market plenty of bargins there and the people that sell them you give you lots of advice. There are plenty of trees that would be ideal for you but how big do you want them what size is your block apart from the Delonix regia ( Poinciana ) Illawarra flame tree, Tabebuia, Cassia, for the flowers there are lots that are shady have a look around your area and ask the neighbours what there names are, if they can grow them so can you, admire their plants and they will give you cuttings. Hibiscus grow well there Syzygium or Lily Pilly, Poinsettia, Snowflake all Euphorbia do well, pentas, Leptospermum Tea Tree and bougainvillea they are some of the ones I grew there and dont forget the Cycads Sago Palm I hope this has been a bit of help to you....Cheers..MM.