I'm sorry about your Otto. I loved your tales of his exploits...reminded me of one of the episodes of All Creatures Great and Small with the cat who showed up at any and all functions where people gathered - a true social butterfly who just wouldn't stay at home. In our rural area, the biggest danger to cats are the coyotes. After losing 4 cats in a row, my late DH went out and adopted an entire litter - 4 female kittens. His theory was we might end up with one or two lasting a while. Well, here I am 14 years later with all 4, and a bunch of more scaredy cats you'd never find. They're terrified of everything and always have been. My 5th cat is a free spirit much like your Otto. I adopted him from a co-worker who told tales of this cat sleeping out on the warm pavement of the road despite cars driving over the top of him (tires straddling him, luckily!) We thought a quieter setting might help him survive and so it has - he's just turned 9. He is aggravating as all get out sometimes, but his antics are never boring. I guess what I'm saying is give me the Bon Vivant any day over one afraid of its own shadow. Otto used up all his lives in a fast and furious fashion, but he sounded like he surely had a passion for life. I know how you must miss him. I second the suggestion of telling "the kiddies" to get out and get their own patch of earth to design and plant. I don't believe gardening by committee can be successful; I'd have no trouble telling them where to get off, LOL. I hope the new garden turns out to be something you love.

Pamela, thank you and I promise to write it down this time. :-) Blackcatgirl, your Elle is very pretty. I agree, Gean has a wonderful way with words. Patricia, I can assure you that you do not want to see a photo of my garden right now. The spots have spots. The big picture isn't lovely but there are areas that are beautiful in the midst of the general untidiness from falling leaves and fungal ridden roses. My RdO didn't rebloom very well until the past two years. She took a long time to get around to blooming much but she has been constantly blooming this summer. Always a few blooms, often lots of blooms. Do you think she would do better with a little more time? It's good to see you posting. I miss you! Lordy Hamp, that is a gorgeous big ole girl. She really does like the south. Post as many "huge" pictures as you would like. I've got to remember the "Monster Tillier" :-)My LH has also covered herself with buds just in the past two days. Her last hurrah I guess. I love it that you managed to talk Randy into a rose just as a side note.... Thank you Randall, I'll try to find that lavender. Where you gonna put your Ducher? :-) Lux, I love jasmine. I have Carolina and Confederate jasmine. I wish I could grow lemons here. When I was in California, Carol made us the most wonderful lemon dessert from Meyer lemons from her very own tree. I was most impressed. Your garden sounds lovely. I love reading about all of your gardens! Off to bed. Another long day of work tomorrow. Carol

Larry I will post some information from the Ronniger's site where I buy my seed potatoes. I will also add the link to their site. They have very good information on how to grow them. I think this will answer all of your questions better than I can. But if you have any more just ask them. I will say I doubt if hilling no would be beneficial in my opinion. Jay Page 5 Cutting Seed Potatoes l Cutting Seed Potatoes All tubers the size of a hen's egg (1-3 oz.) may be planted whole. For larger tubers, cut the potato using a clean, sharp knife so that each piece will contain 1 or more eyes. Pieces should be cut with plenty of flesh around the eyes, since the plant will utilize this stored food during the first 2 or 3 weeks of growth. If the variety has many eyes, try for two or more eyes on each piece. This provides opportunity for more vines to grow and thus yield more potatoes. Seeds may be planted immediately after cutting if you have good control of soil moisture. If theres a chance the soil may be too wet for a long period of time, youÂll want to allow the cut pieces to dry out prior to planting. Spread them out on a table in the shade or one layer deep in shallow boxes for drying. Avoid shriveling which may weaken the seed piece. Also rec- ommended for wet soil conditions is the application of sulfur or Fir bark dust to the freshly cut pieces. Place 1 or more table spoons in a large paper bag, and toss the pieces around to cover them with dust. This may guard against threat of infection by bacteria and fungus in wetter soil. If you are able to plant cut seed successfully, then there's no reason to go through the extra steps of drying and dusting. Planting The rule of thumb to follow, for the earliest planting time, is to plant 2 weeks before your last spring frost. Then of course,you can plant anytime after that, giving yourself at least 3 months growing season before a major fall frost. Some growers plant later than this for better growing temperatures. Check with the locals. A good beginning soil temperature to plant in is 50 degrees Fahrenheit. The width between rows is determined by the size of your garden and method of cultivation. Farmers need 30" -36" be- tween rows, while gardeners can get by with 20" -26". You might adjust your spacing to suit adverse conditions. Wider spacing can help alleviate stress due to drought or poor soil. Tighter spacing may give you a uniform canopy of foliage to cool the soil in summer. Dig a shallow trench about 6" - 8" deep. Plant your seed potatoes about 12" apart. Using a rake, cover the seed pieces immediately after planting. Do not cover too deep, 4" maxi- mum, and leave the remaining soil for later. Hilling In approximately two weeks, depending on soil temperature, green leaves will emerge. When the plants have grown to about 8" high, gently hill with soil brought up from both sides of the plant using a dull hoe. Bring the soil up about 3" inches leaving 4" - 6" of the plant exposed. Hilling cools the soil and creates space for tuber development. All tubers will form at the same depth of the seed piece and higher. Another hilling of 1 to 2" is beneficial 2 - 3 weeks later. Keep the blade of your hoe well away from the plants so you do not damage the roots. If you see potatoes poking out of the hills, add more soil to cover them. Potato Growers Guide Hilling is crucial to establishing your crop. By gradually building an ever-larger hill of soil around the plant, you are building the site for your potatoes to develop. Give them plenty of room between rows and build your hills wide and ample to produce your bumper crop. Raised Bed Method Make your raised bed at least 12" deep and fill with soil. Plant seed potatoes 6" deep and cover to the top. If you are crowded, space them 8" - 10" apart in rows 20" apart. If you have room, plant 12" apart in rows 24" - 30" apart. Cover to the top. If you live in a wet climate, only cover to 4" deep so that the potatoes can get a quicker start. Then cover to the top later when the plants are tall enough. Mulch Alternative Method The Mulch Method is a good alternative if your soil is shal- low, rocky or compact; if youÂre planting in the heat of sum- mer, or have problems with scab in your soil. The best mulch to use is loose, seed-free hay or straw. Leaves and dried grass clip- pings can be used. It is important to have plenty on hand. Prepare your seed bed. Plant the seed pieces. They can be placed on the surface or lightly trenched, spaced as usual. Loosely shake mulch over the bed, 6" - 10" deep. As the plants grow, continue to add more loose straw, as if hilling. Be sure you keep the tubers well covered so that sunlight doesnÂt get to them and turn them green. The mulching method provides ex- cellent weed and moisture control and reduces stress due to heat. At harvest, pull back mulch. Your nest of potatoes will be clean, uniform and easy to harvest. Cage Method Alternative Grow potatoes in vertical boxes, cribs, barrels or wire cages. Set your cage on prepared soil. Plant strong seed pieces 6" - 8" apart and cover lightly with 4" of soil. When the plant emerges and grows, begin adding mellow compost, mulch or soil always leaving at lest 6 inches of plant exposed. Continue this process until the plants stop their upward progress and/or blossom. Then let them finish out their growing season providing them with plenty of water. As the plant stems lengthen, so do the length and number of underground stolons, which are what produce the potato tubers. More potatoes form in less space and the yield is increased 2 or 3 times. This is a great way to grow a lot of potatoes with limited garden spac Potatoes need about 1" - 2" of water per week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not too wet, from the time of emergence until then end of the season. Try not to let the soil completely dry out as this will cause sudden re-growth when watered, giving your tubers ears and noses, splits, or hollow heart. Each time you water, let it soak down 8" to 12". A few thorough waterings,along with your efforts at hilling or mulching will be an adequate program to conserve soil moisture. Come up with a schedule, every three days or so, to check the soil moisture down at the roots.

Hope you make it through the winter :-) NY is not that bad. I've lived in Fla and CA and loved them, but there's no place like home. After you live in WV for awhile, you will find all kinds of things you don't like about it. Then NY will look a little better. And this snow is NOT normal, they say this is the snowiest 2 days in all of October since they have been keeping records. Not even the snowiest just for Oct 12 or Oct 13, but all of October for over 100 years. That sounds abnormal to me. Sure hope this is not an omen for this winter . . .