Jay, I am glad the germination is better than you thought it was going to be. I had good luck with the golden marconi germinating, but the red one was poor. I received a nice giant one at the swap and it is doing well.

I need to start an asparagus bed. I should have done it long ago, but I just couldn't decide where to put it. I believe that I am going to do a raised bed for it. Is yours in the ground or raised?

We all know that it is the soil that makes the difference in any plant, and I believe that is also true for the seed starting mix. They can sprout anywhere, even a paper towel, but I believe soon after sprouting you had better have them in something good. I have used MG in pots and transplanted a sizable plant to it and it works OK for that, but I don't like it for seeds or small seedlings.

I have been very satisfied with ProMix and have been amazed at how little I had to water, and some of my plants are still in fairly small cups. Of course, that hasn't been a problem yesterday and today as we have been getting rain. Only .38 yesterday, but I think there will be more than that today. It has stopped now, but there is another on the way.

Although I bought garlic to plant last fall, I never got it in the ground. I have been working hard to get my garden in to a more 'permanent' state, and when I'm done I will add things like asparagus and horseradish and Jeruseleum Artichokes, etc. I admire those gardens that look like old substantial farmhouse gardens that fed the family. Mine started as a lawn a few years ago, and has required a lot of work to get to this point. It had once been a garden so the soil was nice, but with our rainfall, you can imagine how the grass and weeds grow.

Dawn gave me a rhubarb plant at the swap so I tried to put that in permanent location where it will get some afternoon shade. You can probably grow that easily, can't you? When I lived in Denver, it grew like crazy. I kept trying to move mine and instead it just came up in the new place AND the old place.

My peas are not growing fast either. Of course, they were planted much later than normal. I have spring and summer crops both growing at the same time and I believe the summer ones are doing best.LOL We had a couple of days in the 80's then these nice showers.

Right now I am trying to find a method for hilling the potato plants. They are growing like mad and I can't keep up with them. I only have two little blocks of plants so it isn't like I am trying to feed a large family. LOL I am just trying to grow a little of everthing to make sure I know how to do it. Who knows, I may need to know that. I have grown a lot of different things in the past, but that was all over the world, and conditions here are not the same.

I have a question for you, or for anyone else that would like to answer. I am thinking of building a bed just for carrots. Not a big bed, but just something where I can control the soil mix a little better. I understand that they grow best in sandy soil. Since you have sandy soil, I thought I would ask you if they grow well at your house. I know you have a tendency toward over-manuring (heehee), which I understand is a no-no for carrots. How do you handle yours?

While the rain has stopped, I need to go search through the seedlings for Sungold. I only have one planted in the garden, and my husband is in a panic. LOL That is his favorite snack in summer. I hope I still have a couple more to plant for him. I still have a lot of plants and need to get some more in containers today also....and peppers.

Carol,
First I'll give my answer to your carrot question. Yes they grow well here. I've read all the warnings about too much fertilizer and forked, distorted roots ect. I'm assuming this is what you are referring too. I have only seen it on a few plants a couple of times. I don't even give it a thought anymore. Just plant them where I have room and they do fine. I've been told by old gardeners that manure if added early and allowed to break down so to speak isn't as bad about causing that problem as commercial fertilizers. And my soil tests prove my soil has very high levels. Then you read where manure is the worst. All I can say is I have never experienced (knock on wood) and major problems with growing them or root problems.

My potatoes are just an inch or two tall. I ordered about ten days earlier than they suggested at Ronniger's. Wanting to give them plenty of time to start sprouts inside. Took them a little longer than I planned. But now they seem to be doing great. I planted mine shallow. Will mulch with straw, leaves and shredded alfalfa as they grow.

My asparagus bed is in the ground. You might call it a raised bed now. I add alfalfa pellets, bone meal and molasses every fall. I then cover with tree leaves, grass clippings and straw. Probably 3-5 inches a year. So over time the bed has built up some. That is all I do besides spray it with a soil enhancer or an activator once a year. Some years I just use molasses a few times. Other than that my bed is care free.

Rhubarb grows well here. This place had a bed of it when I bought it. I have never ate it. And it took me some time to kill it out. Guess I should try it. Just never have.

I almost messed up yesterday. And not sure but think I know what I did now. Although most of my plants have good color and look great. I had a few of the last plants I potted up that was in the Fertilome seed starting mix I thought I would give a boost too. I had some of the Peters blue water type powder handy. So mixed up a batch in my the sprinkling can I bought at the auction last Sat. After I got started and had some left over thought I might as well use it and give them all a little dose of it. This morning several of the plants were curled some. My first thought was I didn't clean out the can enough and it must of had weed killer ect in it. Then I noticed that many looked great. So far every plant that looks bad was either started in MG seed starting mix or is in a MG potting mix. So guessing that something in the two isn't compatible. Or something is way high. I will watch them over the next two days. I watered some of them with straight water that looked the worst thinking I might flush it out some. But many of the plants look fine. Always something new with gardening. I mixed at their suggested rate. So not sure what happened. Jay

I am running out of things to hill my potato's up with. I think my neighbor said he still had some bagged leaves, so I am going to check that out. The left side has been hilled twice.

These are the earliest tomato plants that I put in the ground and they are coming along. Not bad for as far north as I live.

soonergrandmom, jay, or somebody

I need advice. I planted potatoes this year even tho I have never grown pototes. I read where they should be "hilled". Mine have never been hilled and are almost knee high. The plants are so close that it looks like a solid bed. They were planted on 3-9 and are bloming now.

After reading this thread I started to go get some 2x4,s and plastic tarp to pull them apart and mulch them, as I have nothing else to put around the potatoes. My wife tells me that she thinks it is too late.

Does any one have any ideas as to what should be done now?

The rows are on 32" centers and the potatoes were planted 10" to 12" apart.

I put my hand into the soil by one plant and I found a potato about the size of a golf ball. The soil is also very soft.

The only way I can mulch is to attach two 2x4" to two 5'x7' tarps i have and pull the vines apart, they look like a jungle.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Larry

Slowpoke, I am perhaps not seeing your issue correctly? The soil is loose, the plants are happy, and you already have small potatoes formed....

I have had potatoes in rows be just as happy as potatoes in hills, if that is your only concern I would say that you are worried with no reason. If it pleases you, plant them in hills next year lol. Meanwhile, best of luck!

Larry I will post some information from the Ronniger's site where I buy my seed potatoes. I will also add the link to their site. They have very good information on how to grow them. I think this will answer all of your questions better than I can. But if you have any more just ask them. I will say I doubt if hilling no would be beneficial in my opinion. Jay

Page 5
Cutting Seed Potatoes
l Cutting Seed Potatoes
All tubers the size of a hen's egg (1-3 oz.) may be planted whole. For larger tubers, cut the potato using a clean, sharp knife so that each piece will contain 1 or more eyes. Pieces should be cut with plenty of flesh around the eyes, since the plant will utilize this stored food during the first 2 or 3 weeks of growth. If the variety has many eyes, try for two or more eyes on each piece. This provides opportunity for more vines to grow and thus yield more potatoes. Seeds may be planted immediately after cutting if you have good control of soil moisture. If theres a chance the soil may be too wet for a long period of time, youÂll want to allow the cut pieces to dry out prior to planting. Spread them out on a table in the shade or one layer deep in shallow boxes for drying. Avoid shriveling which may weaken the seed piece. Also rec-
ommended for wet soil conditions is the application of sulfur or Fir bark dust to the freshly cut pieces. Place 1 or more table spoons in a large paper bag, and toss the pieces around to cover them with dust. This may guard against threat of infection by bacteria and fungus in wetter soil. If you are able to plant cut seed successfully, then there's no reason to go through the extra steps of drying and dusting. Planting
The rule of thumb to follow, for the earliest planting time, is to plant 2 weeks before your last spring frost. Then of course,you can plant anytime after that, giving yourself at least 3 months growing season before a major fall frost. Some growers plant later than this for better growing temperatures. Check with the locals. A good beginning soil temperature to plant in is 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
The width between rows is determined by the size of your
garden and method of cultivation. Farmers need 30" -36" be-
tween rows, while gardeners can get by with 20" -26". You
might adjust your spacing to suit adverse conditions. Wider
spacing can help alleviate stress due to drought or poor soil.
Tighter spacing may give you a uniform canopy of foliage to
cool the soil in summer.
Dig a shallow trench about 6" - 8" deep. Plant your seed
potatoes about 12" apart. Using a rake, cover the seed pieces immediately after planting. Do not cover too deep, 4" maxi-
mum, and leave the remaining soil for later.
Hilling
In approximately two weeks, depending on soil temperature,
green leaves will emerge. When the plants have grown to about 8" high, gently hill with soil brought up from both sides of the plant using a dull hoe. Bring the soil up about 3" inches leaving 4" - 6" of the plant exposed. Hilling cools the soil and creates space for tuber development. All tubers will form at the same depth of the seed piece and higher. Another hilling of 1 to 2" is
beneficial 2 - 3 weeks later. Keep the blade of your hoe well away from the plants so you do not damage the roots. If you see potatoes poking out of the hills, add more soil to cover them.

Potato Growers Guide
Hilling is crucial to establishing your crop. By gradually
building an ever-larger hill of soil around the plant, you are
building the site for your potatoes to develop. Give them plenty
of room between rows and build your hills wide and ample to
produce your bumper crop.
Raised Bed Method
Make your raised bed at least 12" deep and fill with soil.
Plant seed potatoes 6" deep and cover to the top. If you are
crowded, space them 8" - 10" apart in rows 20" apart. If you
have room, plant 12" apart in rows 24" - 30" apart. Cover to the
top. If you live in a wet climate, only cover to 4" deep so that
the potatoes can get a quicker start. Then cover to the top later
when the plants are tall enough.
Mulch Alternative Method
The Mulch Method is a good alternative if your soil is shal-
low, rocky or compact; if youÂre planting in the heat of sum-
mer, or have problems with scab in your soil. The best mulch to
use is loose, seed-free hay or straw. Leaves and dried grass clip-
pings can be used. It is important to have plenty on hand.
Prepare your seed bed. Plant the seed pieces. They can be
placed on the surface or lightly trenched, spaced as usual.
Loosely shake mulch over the bed, 6" - 10" deep. As the plants
grow, continue to add more loose straw, as if hilling. Be sure
you keep the tubers well covered so that sunlight doesnÂt get to
them and turn them green. The mulching method provides ex-
cellent weed and moisture control and reduces stress due to
heat. At harvest, pull back mulch. Your nest of potatoes will be
clean, uniform and easy to harvest.
Cage Method Alternative
Grow potatoes in vertical boxes, cribs, barrels or wire cages. Set your cage on prepared soil. Plant strong seed pieces 6" - 8" apart and cover lightly with 4" of soil. When the plant emerges and grows, begin adding mellow compost, mulch or soil always leaving at lest 6 inches of plant exposed. Continue this process until the plants stop their upward progress and/or blossom. Then let them finish out their growing season providing them
with plenty of water. As the plant stems lengthen, so do the length and number of underground stolons, which are what produce the potato tubers. More potatoes form in less space and the yield is increased 2 or 3 times. This is a great way to grow a lot of potatoes with limited garden spac Potatoes need about 1" - 2" of water per week. Keep the soil evenly moist, but not too wet, from the time of emergence until then end of the season. Try not to let the soil completely dry out as this will cause sudden re-growth when watered, giving your tubers ears and noses, splits, or hollow heart. Each time you water, let it soak down 8" to 12". A few thorough waterings,along with your efforts at hilling or mulching will be an adequate program to conserve soil moisture. Come up with a schedule, every three days or so, to check the soil moisture down at the roots.

Carol,
Looking good. I'm still not sure what happened yesterday. I'm going out not to survey all the plants. I starting to feel again somehow something was in the can. Would of had to of been residue on the sides. If so I may lose 1/3 to 1/2 of my plants. I won't know what I have left for a few days. So just stayed away all afternoon. Now time to survey the damage. Those on the north wall that looked bad don't look any better. Then others look fine. That is the puzzling part. Jay

Jay, I still have extra plants and I can start potting them up into something larger and keep them growing for you if you are in need of some. I have plenty of containers. I could probably put them in gallon size and they would be good for several more weeks before needing a larger pot or the ground. Let me know your status and I will tell you what I have left and you can see which ones you are interested in.

Thank you all for the potato information.

This "Potato" thing started as a joke on my wife. She found a super-duper potato growing recipe on the internet, two cups of cottonseed mill, two table spoons of 13-13-13, 6" hole with post hole diggers, etc.

After I dug all the holes for her and she had planted her seed potatoes. I (in a smart way) told her to watch and I would show her how I had seen my daddy plant potatoes.

I tied a rope to the back of the riding lawn mower,( but daddy used a horse) and tied the other end to an old plow we had in the shed. I ask her to drive across the garden three times.

I had bought a 20LB. bag of potatoes at the gro. store that had sprouted pretty badly for $1.00. I chopped up about 1/4 of those potatoes and dropped them in the furrow, then raked soil over them.

Long story made short. I have about two times as many plants out of my $.25 worth of potatoes as she does out of her $20.00 or $25.00 worth of supplies. But we do have nearly a full bag of 13-13-13, and almost a full bag of cotton seed mill.

Maybe she can make cookies out of the cotton seed mill, and if she sees this post she will make cookies out of the mill and make me eat every one of them.

Larry

Carol,
I'll be sending you an email. I spent some time around them tonight. I haven't tried to get a count yet. Good deal I had so many. I would say somewhere around 150-180 out of 400 plus plants show some signs of curling. I will give the a few days to see what they do. A few I thought actually looked better tonight. I talked to a farmer friend who does a lot of chemical spraying. The curling is a sign. But the hit and miss where I sprinkled the whole flats. And then in the utility room I took a cup and watered every cup. I'm leaning towards something in the sprinkling can but may never know. Any way I have several left. I'm sure I won't have a few I wanted to grow and try. But found good plants of many of my favorites. The trouble is it good most of my big plants. Many of the smaller ones will be fine just a little later. I will have more room in the frames and under the lights now. I won't have as many hard decisions to make. I told my friend. I know I swished the water around but don't think I ever poured anything out the spout till I started watering. So possibly something was in it. I'm always so cautious when doing anything with my plants. And not sure why I didn't. I washed it good with soap today. Will sprinkle a gallon or two on some spots I won't mind hurting as bad to see what happens before I water anything in the garden again with it. Jay

Jay, that is terrible. I still have plants left over but I'm sure I can't match what you had going, but you are welcome to a bunch of these. I'll wait for your email.

I can give you a list on Tuesday and you can let me know if you want them. I put the ones you want into gallons and keep them until you come this way. Don't you plant until June anyway?

Larry - I hope those cookies don't taste too bad! LOL!

Either way, ya gotta "hill" the regular potatoes you're growing....that's the only way any new tubers (aka potatoes) grow! I just use plain ol' dirt, but I know of others that have used other organic matter and had pleasing results so maybe the wife isn't too far out of line.

I'd still vote for real dirt and "hilling" them. I've grown potatoes as far back as 30 years ago and every year for the last 3 (since I moved away from a patio garden). Good luck...and I'm interested in the outcome...ha!

Paula

Jay,

What a terrible thing to have happen to your tomatoes. If it is just a reaction to the fertilizer, I should think they'd recover. Do you think there was any soapy residue left in the watering can before you mixed up the Peters fert in it?

I'd offer you my plants, but they're all in the ground and I've given away all the back-ups. I hope youre curling leaves correct themselves and the plants bounce back.

Carol, My peas were very slow for the longest time, and then I guess the weather finally got into the right temperature range for them, and they grew an additional 2' or 3' in about 10 days. They are now about 5' tall and producing like mad. It seems like they stayed in the 18-30" height range forever and forever. We had peas from the first picking with our BLT sandwiches (yes, with fresh, home-grown tomatoes) last night. It is good to finally be eating fresh from the 2010 garden.

I am worried that the high temps in the 90s on 2 or 3 days this week will be hard on the cool-season crops.

Larry, Hilling gives you more potatoes per plant, and often a lot more. I've seen people raise potatoes with no hilling and no mulching and they get substantially smaller harvests

Dawn

Dawn,
It is still too early to tell how things will turn out. A few looked better last night and this morning. Some looked the same and others possibly a little worse. I should have enough plants left. Some maybe a week or so later. It affected many of my bigger plants the worst. But could of been worse. It didn't seem to affect the peppers any. I will keep a close eye on them. And some varieties seemed to survive it better. But until I inventory them again after a few days and writed down what I have and what it affected I won't know for sure.

As you know I've fought off the urge to plant. Many including one of my coworkers plant during the warm days last week. He has a garden bigger than mine. And lost every tomato and pepper plant Friday night. He has a greenhouse. Not sure why he decided to put them all out. I feel for all that lost plants. Have heard of some around Guymon ect that lost plants. They are saying around Thursday it could be in the upper 30's again. My plan is too plant this weekend. Another coworker told his wife last week that Jay said it was still too early too plant. So they didn't. He said she has decided I know what I'm talking about. I just told him that it is more I've been there and been burnt so a little more cautious.

Yes my sweet peas are just really growing well now. I'm afraid if we see 90 degree days in 8-10 days it may hurt them. Jay

I keep visiting my garden starring at my seedlings as if my presence will make them grow faster somehow. lol

I am going to have to put in a raised bed for carrots this fall. I havent had much luck last summer or this spring with them. They were one of the things I really wanted to learn how to grow.

My peas arnt growing very fast, but this weekend they seem to have started to bolt again. They are just in pots this year so I might move them to the east side of the house tonight for the up coming warmer weather. Last year the chickens found them just as they were blooming LOL of course! My pepper seedlings were a lost cause this year, but sadly I am sure it was my own fault. I was so worried about my tom seedlings hardening off just right that I neglected my peppers. DH says I would have slept with those toms if I could have. I would have too..... if he would have scooted over just a bit more!