I wouldn't worrry about adding UCG - it has plenty of N as is - but the top pic sure looks too dry. In fact both pics look like they could use some moisture.

If you want to get it cooking then it most likely needs carbons added, not nitrogen (greens).

Dave

You need more carbons, not more Nitrogen. The gray, ashey looking stuff could well be fungi mycella.

I am going to be a contrarian here. Horse manure has a C:N ratio of 25. So horse manure is perfectly capable of composting by itself if sufficiently moist. With bedding material added, the C:N ratio increases. If there is a lot of straw and wood chips, then you may need to add nitrogen material such as UCG. But depending on how long this material has been composting, I would call a stop to new additions and just continue turning and keeping it moist until done.

When building you next pile, you may consider adding UCG, soil and old compost. If this gives better results, then you are getting closer to the correct formula. Tinkering by adding various materials after the pile has been built doesn't seem to be the correct approach. At some point, the pile is done and you have to stop adding material.

I'm gonna have to agree with cowgirl. There is a local horse trainer that lets me go pick up loads from the piles that they've cleaned out of the stalls. It's a mountain sized windrow and pretty much, except for the freshest part, it's compost.

Your first pile looks too dry though.

What the C:N ratio of Horse manure is depends on which chart you look at. I have seen that listed as anywhere from 15:1 to 50:1. Any manure will, eventually, become finished compost, but it may not be very good compost if it is not handled properly, ie. properly composted. Properly composting manure, any manure, ie. mixing that with 3 parts vegetative waste to 1 part manure aids in preserving the nutrients that are in the manure and can help eliminate the disease pathogens that are in that manure. Properly composting manure, any manure, gives you an end product, finished compost, that is much better all around then the individual components could be.

Oh good gravy. Here we go again. Who defines "properly composted"? There are resources abounding (google "composting horse manure") on the subject that suggest that horse manure has the perfect balance and any additions could potentially upset that balance which will require you to pay attention and keep your additions balanced for optimum conditions to be maintained. That doesn't mean you can't or won't later need to re-establish the balance, though. Not turning it, turning far too often, or leaving it open to the elements can cause gassing off and leaching of nitrogen which may require an addition. Sometimes, a disproportionate amount of bedding is an issue that can cause the process to take longer. It will still compost, though. Adding vege waste doesn't preserve anything at all and the claim is bogus. It adds extra nitrogen to replace the nitrogen lost through the gassing off, leaching, and the composting process itself (though some nitrogen is bound in the process, which is good). Here are the first two sites from googling it if you don't want to rely solely on my experience (which you shouldn't because you don't know me):

http://whatcom.wsu.edu/ag/compost/horsecompost2.htm

http://californiarangeland.ucdavis.edu/Publications%20pdf/2%20Equine-Composting.pdf

I failed to see "3 parts vegetative waste to 1 part manure" as the definition of "properly composted" or anything close to it.

All this said, the process we use now at my grandfathers to compost manure is a lot different. The idea was not mine and I was actually a skeptic, but I have since changed my view. We spread it over a particular area and it has become infested with red wiggler worms. On occasion I get some fresh manure or month old manure and add it to my compost in the back yard to get that pile going, but aside from that it's all spread at a woodline. Spreading it out keeps it from heating up like crazy so that the worms will work it really well. In fact, they become so abundant I decided to pick a bunch of them out and make a worm bin that is thriving. I've read in a couple books that worms are a great way to manage livestock waste and there is lot's of research on the subject as the factory farms are starting to look for alternatives to just dumping the overwhelming supply of cow, pig, and chicken waste that is full of toxins from antibiotics that humans aren't supposed to ingest and diseases that are common in factory farm animals (EPA is getting crappy!). You might consider a worm pit for the aging stuff after it's stopped composting as fast and cooled off.

All of you folks are right, to some extent, and might be wrong to another extent (same as me), since all of us use different materials and different bin/turn methods in different environmental zones. An apples/oranges thing. There's no "best way" for everybody, everywhere. Some folks have lots of space - others are limited to tiny areas.

C:N ratio of any herbivore manure depends on what the critter ate/when/how much. And the critter's digestive process (healthy?). And C:N ratio? You can read lots of charts/graphs/lists somebody else wrote - but can YOU really determine what the actual C:N ratio is of the material MIX that YOU are going to use NEXT? Without using somebody else's "estimate"? Hmmm, thought so. Do you calculate C:N by volume, or by weight? Can be done both ways, y'know... Pathogens? Y'all probably couldn't recognize them even with a quality microscope. Drugs in manure? Same thing. Feed lots maybe - but still moot points. Healthy plants really don't care, and you shouldn't either, unless you're putting raw manure from questionable sources directly under your veggies (a no-no). High enough heat and microorganisms 'take care' of those issues, as y'all know. Don't scare newbies off with "wives tales".

It's really a matter of available VOLUME. Yes, herbivore manures CAN be all that's needed - and if you have enough, you are TRULY blessed. But at the volume that I compost, there's not nearly enough poop conveniently available to me (and free - that I've located so far). I really enjoy composting, and provide hundreds of pounds monthly to Master Gardener friends in 'burbs who garden, but who cannot compost (even with worms) due to Homeowner Ass's CC&R's.
My high-volume needs require supplementation with grass clippings, leaves, hay/straw, pine needles, shredded newspaper - WHATEVER is free - and easier than picking up plops from pastures with a shovel (done that). I currently mow/bag about 3 acres of neighbor's lawns monthly. Free - to acquire enough volume to compost (good thing I'm retired, huh?). I read lots about C:N, and y'know what? I compost what I have. In the order I get it. And y'know what else? Mother Nature works her wonders for this dummy - nonetheless.

We all enjoy composting - be nice to one another...Learn new ideas from each other - and TRY 'em before you 'knock' them. Most of y'all commenting in this post are recognized experts in your own right - and the way YOU do it is valid (for you) and very useful for others to know about. So focus on helping less knowedgable folks to learn HOW TO ASK the right questions - instead of bickering amongst yourselves. Not a good example to newbies, in particular...

My compost analysis results (including 'tea') have been really high in N,P,K+Micro, but also too high in (mineral) salts that may be hurting my mesophyllic fungi levels in 2nd & 3rd turn piles. And live on the salty Texas coast, which doesn't help.
Anybody tried sprinkling gypsum on pile layers to mediate salt buildup in fast-finished compost?
I use the finish-to-harvest method with frame technique on seven 5'x7' trenched pads, with 3 well-screened turns over 3 months (4-month harvest). Use rainwater only. Ideas?
If so, please start a new post and I'll pick up on it.

Horse manure is a green. Straw is a brown. But when my donkey eats straw, I'm not convinced that she magically poops it out as a green. She's just pulled out some of the carbon and started the composting process for me.

Macarius - your heaps look good to me, just a touch dry. I'm certain they'll compost down wonderfully even if you did nothing to them at all, so long as they get a bit of rain on them.

Sorry if i have stirred up a hornet's nest with this thread, but i do appreciate everyone's comments and advice. Still have a bunch of questions, so please bear with me. i know the left pile is too dry, and i thought that the "ash" was a result of the hot, dried bedding materials. Interesting to learn that it could be fungi. i somehow thought that fungi wouldn't do well in a fresh, hot compost pile. The pile on the left is uncovered so that it will get some moisture from the rain and snow. Hopefully that should keep things moist enough as we're expecting several days of rain this week.

The pile on the right was covered because it was very wet when i last turned it two or three weeks ago, and i wanted to keep it from getting wet from more rain. Now it is uncovered like the other one. It is very soft and moist, with clumps that are almost like a paste or sludge. i thought that because i could see wood shavings, straw and leaves in the pile that there was plenty of C and perhaps not enough N in the pile. It seems that when working with manure, it's very difficult to know exactly what the C:N ratio really is. After you turn a pile, how long should it take to heat up again, and how long will that heat last? Is that impossible to know without some idea of the C:N ratio in the pile?

So i know that these piles are composting because they get hot at first, generating steam i can see when i turn them, and because the overall volume decreases over time. Assuming my pile is unbalanced (either too much N or too much C), if i keep turning the piles periodically and wait long enough (6 months to a year), will the end result be properly composted - ie safe to use with vegetable crops? Thanks again for the advice.

You aren't stirring a hornets nest. I hope you are willing to take a look at some of the resources available on the net, which I gave you a little bit of a start. Many of these resources are based on study, not just someone's opinion of "proper". Those from extensions are from universities. Anything that has .edu in it is a good start, like the resources above. In answer to your question on using manure that has composted for 6 months to a year, yes. You can use it on vegetables. That was another debate in another thread where you can easily find guidelines if you know where to look. I suggest the USDA's guidelines on organic farming as they specifically tackle the practice of using manure - raw and composted - in farming. If you can use raw 6 months prior to harvest, you can certainly use composted or partially composted.

Soilguy:

"We all enjoy composting - be nice to one another...Learn new ideas from each other - and TRY 'em before you 'knock' them. Most of y'all commenting in this post are recognized experts in your own right - and the way YOU do it is valid (for you) and very useful for others to know about. So focus on helping less knowedgable folks to learn HOW TO ASK the right questions - instead of bickering amongst yourselves. Not a good example to newbies, in particular..."

"We all enjoy composting. . ." How do you know? I don't mean how do you know we enjoy it. I mean how do you know that everyone composts at all here? You just trust that is the case despite the very real fact that there are people that jump on these forums after reading a book and never experience anything for real themselves. Or worse, they read a ton of posts by amateurs and then present themselves as experts based on that gained information (true and false info, both). The latter type of people are generally people that turn to internet sites such as these to gain acceptance they can't gain in real life because of their inability to perform basic social interaction in person. Often you can identify these types when they are consistently using tactics in posts that are purposefully demeaning. Here the example is the use of "Properly composted" to indicate that any other way is improper even though absolutely no real source is provided. It was stated that it would still work, but not as well as if "handled properly". All you have to go on is Kimm's word. If it's so accepted as "proper", show me. No, show the person that asked the question in the first place. Had the post stated "The way I compost", then that would have been entirely different. I am not saying for certain that Kimm is one of those that have social issues because I don't know Kimm personally and can only refer to Kimm's posts. I'm saying that to assume everyone here is here with the same benevolent goal in mind is not a very realistic assumption. This kind of thing happens often enough that if I notice it you will see that I don't just give opinions in counter, I also try to cite sources. I don't expect you or anyone else to consider me an expert unless you get to know me personally. Instead, I cite those that many of us do consider experts.

There is a huge difference in "being nice to one another" and just sitting idly by while misinformation is posted. If I were a "newbie", as I once was and still am in many regards, and I followed the advice of the most intelligent sounding post that appeared to be an expert because you or anyone else decided to be "nice to one another" instead of point out what a bad idea it is to follow said advice and why it's bogus advice, I would be ticked. Maybe that is just me, though. Of course, I tend to make sure I have more than one resource before putting work into something and I certainly appreciate when someone is nice enough to guide me to those resources.

So, Macarius, if you are offended by receiving resources or being advised when you are offered misinformation that is easily refuted, I apologize and I will refrain from following any more of those types of posts in the future should you start the thread. Just let me know.

For those of you with acces to fresh horse manure, you may consider using it as a source of heat in a cold frame. Years ago when fresh horse manure was free for the taking off our roads, horse manure was available to one and all and not just the select few. The soil in the cold frame as dug out. A layer of horse manure was covered by a layer of soil. The composting manure provide enough heat for plants.

Here is modern day version of this.

Here is a link that might be useful: The Hotbed

Yes, Macarius - and you're questions are very important, both to you and the rest of us. Not one of us 'oldies' has all the answers (we're all "set in our ways" to some degree), but together, we all benefit.
Fungi and bacteria (many hundreds of different kinds) are the principal generators of compost, by 'eating' the organic matter until it becomes fully decomposed (humus).
While a C:N ratio is important, it is mainly the sugars and carbohydrates in fresh organic material which initially feed thermophyllic (heat-loving) fungi which generate heat by prolific reproduction.
There are two primary reasons (but not the only ones) why a pile will cool down:
1) sugar/starch food for heat-producing fungi is depleted, which reduces their reproduction,
2) pile microorganisms assimilate oxygen and expire CO2 which can build up to deadly (to microbes) level.
It is rare that an initial pile build is depleted of fungi food before CO2 build-up begins killing them. Turning the pile to thoroughly aerate the material (a coarse screen is recommended to facilitate gas exchange) is the best way to 'revive' a pile, since in decomposing wet material, air penetration is usually limited to a few inches at external edges - which is also why the edges do not heat up well.
Experience (looking, handling, smelling) mostly determines a person's ability to estimate a C:N ratio in the material being used (no two piles are exactly alike).
Regarding water - a pile should be evenly moist - so water-in each layer. Pile heat will cause considerable loss of moisture. Get a fist-full of material. Squeeze it as tight as you can. If only a drop or three squeezes out, it's about right. No drops is too dry. More than a few drops is too much. That's a very "generic" method - grassy new material is really hard to squeeze water out of, and remember that chlorinated water is a deadly microbe poison. Don't kill the critters you're trying to raise.
And while fungus-generated heat is important for initial breakdown of cellulose/lignin, it is the mesophyllic (non heat-producing) fungi/bacteria that accomplish the greater majority of decomposition in a temperature range well below 120F, and that utilize the majority of carbon and nitrogen. The objective of later-stage decomposition is to change the bound nitrogen (and other nutrients) into a form available (again) to plants, and change carbon into the humus form that can last 1,000+ years. It is the humus which is primarily responsible for 'conditioning' soil to improve tilth (hold air, nutrients and water). If you can achieve a 10% humus content in a pile after the 3rd turn, you've done really well. Time to put in on/into the ground and let the microbes continue their work.
Personally, I recommend that a 1st turn pile be aerated especially well, and re-supplied with a drench of diluted (fresh compost 'tea' is best) and well-stirred dark molasses and dry pet food, to ensure an adequate thermophyllic food supply to regenerate prolific reproduction again - making sure that the unheated (previously external parts of the pile) get turned-into the center of the 1st turn pile. From then on, it's simply a matter of ensuring adequate air (oxygen) and moisture in the pile - and Mother Nature will do the rest. How long that takes is the true 'measure' of the C:N ratio contained in the pile mixture. After finishing 12-15 piles or so, you'll have "the hang of it". Author Malcomb Beck is a 'good read' on the C:N issue. His advice: "...don't get too concerned about the numbers...".
Learn by doing. And don't be afraid to experiment.

remember that chlorinated water is a deadly microbe poison

This is the first time I'm hearing this....can this be right? What's wrong with tap water? I can't store enough rain water for my house plants AND the compost pile.

Val

Nothing is wrong with tapwater produced by a municipal water department that injects HUGE amounts of chlorine (call your water dept. and ask how much they add). And if you are comfortable with the health hazards of putting chlorine and its byproducts into your system, it's OK. But suggest you do some online research...
Concerning chorine - including all of the many various compounds of chlorine put into municipal water systems to make it "safe" to drink (by killing any and all microbes) -it WILL kill the microbes in your own gut, compost and soil too - all of them it contacts - that's why chlorine is so popular with MUD's. It is VERY effective microbe poison. Don't take my word for it - do your homework (due diligence). Research online. Test your home water with a pool test kit. Find out for yourself. And about under-counter activated charcoal filtration that removes chlorine from your tap - before drinking or cooking with it. It's done its job up to the tap - you don't need it anymore. Your water will taste better, too. Rainwater harvest professionals NEVER recommend chlorine treatment, and DO recommend ultraviolet disinfection instead. Check it out. I'm ARCSA certified, so speak from extensive experience (www.arcsa.org).
I expanded my rainwater harvest catchment volume, so I would not kill the microbes I'm trying to propagate in my compost piles. Consider getting some barrels to put city water in - to allow chlorine to dissipate for 3-5 days before using it. Some chlorine compounds don't dissipate very well anymore (thanks to chemical researchers) - but anti-chlorine aquarium chemicals do work - albeit kinda expensive. But less expensive than constantly replacing microbes killed with chlorine.
If you HAVE to use city water on compost piles, DO collect the compost 'tea' from watering piles (some microbes may still be alive), and DO aerate (either by air stone or pump spray) the 'tea' collected (so they will multiply), to repopulate pile populations (a viscious cycle), and DO add dilute black molasses to your compost 'tea' brew (see author Dr. Elaine Ingham's research) pile waterings to feed remaining microbe populations. Dry molasses is good too, either stirred in a bucket, or spread on layers while turning).
Chlorine kills microbes it contacts. Simple as that. Chemical reality. Some people don't care. As a composter, you should.

I wish ole Bill was still around, if there was ever a pile that needed his tilling technique, those would be them.

That's what I would do, use a rototiller on them to break up the clumps and get a good mix. The reason I would do this is because:

A) I have a tiller (two in fact)
B) A good mixture (i.e. no clumps) composts better and I think that is what those piles need the most.

But heck, what do I know, I've never composted manure.

For the rest of the thread:

Gypsum, never used it.
Pet food, never used it.
Molasses, never used it.
Chlorine, it's not in my water. But I have drunk municipal water with chlorine in it, so far it hasn't killed me. I know people in town that do compost and do so quite successfully using town water with the chlorine in it.
"finish-to-harvest method", I have no clue what this is.
"frame technique", I have no clue what this is.
"3 well-screened turns", I have no clue what this is.
"a coarse screen is recommended to facilitate gas exchange", I have no clue what this.

So clearly I have a lot to experience.

Lloyd

I guess I'm with you Lloyd.

I would think for chlorinated water to do appreciable harm to the bacteria in compost would mean you put too much water on it and your pile would be too wet. We're not talkin' compost tea here, we're talking a pile of material. I have treated water, I've added it to a dry, cold pile and it heated up after. Hardly what I'd call a dissinfected pile. Come to think of it, I have used it for compost tea and the tea still brewed!

As for "a coarse screen is recommended to facilitate gas exchange", oh puuuuleeeze! Turn the dang thing with a folk and be happy.

I do agree, though, that a lot of folks with phobias frequent forums.

tj

I'm with Lloyd and tj. I don't know what any of those fancy-schmancy terms mean, either. And I know nothing about composting manure. But I agree with soil guy that we do all enjoy composting, or we wouldn't be here. We should be nice to each other. Joejr's view about social misfits hanging out on internet forums might be true, but I think this is the last place in the world they'd gravitate toward. Not a soil forum. Who in the world gives a crap about composting horse crap except compost wackos? Nobody. That's not to say that we're NOT a bunch of social misfits, only that we are compost enthusiasts who are social misfits. See the difference?

Karen

That's not to say that we're NOT a bunch of social misfits, only that we are compost enthusiasts who are social misfits.

Awwww....Karen, you're so sweet (big grin).

But....there are people who join\participate in a forum who for whatever reason like to stir the pot backwards. (Not saying that's what is happening here). For several years I helped set up and run a site that had forums for a particular piece of software and it always amazed me that several people (and particularly one especially) loved saying "yes you can do that with this software but if you had "x-y or z" instead, you could do so much more". Even when proved wrong, time after time, she never changed. Even when she talked nice about the product, she was a fountain of misinformation. It was amazing.

Behind the scenes, we admins would just shake our heads and wonder why does she keep coming here.

I've belonged to other types of forums and it's always the same. There are always people out there who will spout information like it's Holy. I admire the people who stand up to this or turn it around to be funny (you know who you are).

The truth of the matter is that even when some people have disputes on this forum, it's the mildest forum I've ever been on. And...okay...I'll say it - I actually enjoy the banter. It makes me laugh.

So to bring it back on topic...I think I'll have to stick with tap (hose) water because I simply don't have the room to store that much rain water. Even if I tried, my husband would have a cow. Wait....cow....manure....heh! Full circle.

Val

Cowgirl - that idea of using manure for hotbeds is a good one.

Here's my version of it...

[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v186/estherwilliams/PICT0084Small.jpg[/IMG]

It's just a raised bed filled with partially composted manure. We were given some young fig trees which had been growing as runners around a very old tree. The roots had been a bit damaged where the owner had literally pulled them out for us, so we potted them and then sunk the pots into the manure to try to stop the frost damaging them any further.

The composting area is in the background - I've been thinking about building some clear plastic covers for them and using them as 'proper' hot beds. What do you think?

Ooops - I'll try again...

{{gwi:320740}}

As far as chlorine goes in the compost pile, I don't know. I have well water.
Drinking chlorine, fluorine, and such isn't likely very good for you, but the amount absorbed through the skin from a hot shower is about 8 times as much as drinking the stuff...let alone the vapors inhaled.

Re: Chlorine

I don't know much about anything really, but I have a swimming pool. I do know that any time there is any organic debris, like leaves, in the pool, the chlorine is consumed quickly. It's also burned off by the sun.

So, since a compost pile is comprised of organic matter, I would think that the chlorine in tap water would be gone very rapidly.

In any case, I use tap water in the compost when it's necessary. My heaps still get hot and I still get finished compost from them, so I'm assuming that water from the hose doesn't significantly damage the microherd - not in the grand scheme of things.

It's raining pretty hard today, so I don't think I have to worry about tap water for a while anyway.

Well Burra, you're another one that gives me "compost envy". All that space....(smacks lips together).

Val

gnomey is right, there isn't enough chlorine in tap water to be harmful to a compost pile.

Drinking chlorine is much better for you than drinking cholera or dysentery.

joe.jr317,
Well Joe, I know that "We all enjoy composting. . ." because we are all actively inputting into this composting forum.
Seems the word you take issue with is "enjoying". Some people just enjoy reading about composting to ask questions, without intending to do anything about the answers they get, and some folks just enjoy learning from what they read to hopefully do something "someday", and some (those who can), enjoy attempting to put into practice what they learned - and then there are others just enjoy complaining about things that they don't think will work - without ever trying them, to find out. Their motivation to participate in this forum is really none of my business, nor is the extent to which they actually perform composting activity. If a person does compost, they are an 'expert' in the way THEY choose to do it, even it it's their first day.
So the word "proper" as you define it, does not necessarily have the same meaning to someone else. It's a matter of context, and anytime you (or anybody else) makes a "general" statement, the statement should be taken in that context. Point is, nobody appointed you responsible to 'protect' folks on this forum from people who don't agree with you, regardless of what you think about their qualifications and experience levels to give advice.
Yes, you're right - I'm an 'optomist' who believes in the inherent "good" of mankind - and quite apparently to me, you are a 'pessimist' (or at least a 'pragmatic'), who believes that mankind is inherently "bad" - based on what you wrote. I happen to like most people. We all act like 'jerks' at times (even you), so forgive, and get over it without expressing your frustrations publicly. I think assuming the best from folks - is a good way to be. I'd rather be like me, than be like you (based on what you wrote and the way you expressed it). Just my preference - and like my opinion, I'm welcome to it. Yours can be different - and that's OK too. I'm not 'faulting' you for not being like me - I'm just saying that it should be (to you) OK for me to be different than you without that 'bothering' you.
Folks like me understand that "it takes all kinds", so you can be the way you are, and we should be allowed to take people at their word. We are all capable of asking questions and making judgements about whether to trust what somebody says...and hopefully every ADULT has learned to not simply accept "anybody's" word at face value without obtaining more information (about that person, their qualifications/experience, or about the subject) before they act on it. If they don't, they'll just have to learn "the hard way" like all the rest of us did in some things.
At some point in your educational process (in any given subject), through the eyes of an 'expert' (in that subject), you didn't know 'shinola' either - although you probably thought you did. So it's OK for other folks on this forum to think that they do too. And they ARE - in the way that THEY compost. Contrary opinions can be expressed in nice ways - without 'jerking somebody's chain'. You talk about somebody being "...purposefully demeaning..."and then you (in my opinion) exhibit the same kind of behaviour that you're complaining about.
I personally think (from what I've read that kimmsr [Kimm] has posted), he/she is knowledgable about the general subject of composting, and provides valid information to people about the way he/she composts - in which he/she IS the ONLY expert. It is apparent to me that he/she is not knowledgeable about the way I compost, and that's OK. Kimm should not be expected to present ideas, questions and information that is the same as I understand/accept. Different context. So different meanings ARE going to be derived. We DON'T all use the same dictionary, and sometimes we make up words. For example, every plant has only ONE scientific name - but most of them have been given a bunch of common names that 'stuck'. Using the common name is OK too, although doing so can cause confusion at first.
Secondly, I don't "see" the same thing in Kimm's posts that you do. I see no justification for believing that Kimm has "social issues" - and question your qualifications to make such a demeaning statement, especially in a public forum. Not respectful.
Now to express my disagreement with you about the "...sitting idly by..." issue. You should KNOW by now, that I have no problem expressing my personal opinions - so I won't take that comment personally - but then - that would mean that your comment refers to "everybody", and in that context, my question to you, is who made you "judge and jury" about what is, or is not "misinformation"? In my opinion, you need to simply take a deep breath and 'get a grip', sir.
If you disagree with something somebody said, then provide the specific information you think is right - and why - just like everybody else on this forum should, and let people make up their own minds. Ask questions and give the person a chance to respond, without "ringing their bell".
I present information on this forum that lots of folks may know very little about (such as compost microbe activity/cyles), so I need to be prepared to substantiate my advice when requested. Do YOU have a microscope - and know HOW to use it - and know WHAT to look for)? When I write about compost microbes, should I assume you do, and provide technical information? Or should I assume you don't, and not write jargon that you might not understand? If I assume you do, but you don't, at least you then have the words to research the information - instead of just expressing generalities and making unsupported statements. That's my reasoning for being so darned 'wordy' (guilty - I'm a writer), so in my opinion, it's really important to provide specific information on which other forum users can base their responding opinions and advice.
I try to operate my composting operation on the "leading edge" of the industry, so I experiment a lot. I have to understand that some folks don't, 'cause they don't care. Not fun for them. And I have to make that OK and not get 'bent our of shape' when they express their opinions contrary to mine.
SOME of the information I present (for everybody to make their own judgement) is a result of MY trial-and-error composting experience for 50+ years. Not written down, except in my notes. Should I not share my findings for someone else to try - because I haven't written a book yet?
In this forum I write about composting with the Frame technique, and I'd be willing to bet that you don't know what that is, much less how to use it "properly" based on your own composting experience. So when I refer to using that technique 'properly', you can take issue - but you'd be better off to ask questions, instead of trying to instruct me in the proper use of the term as YOU define it.
I build vertical-sided stand-alone (unsupported) multiple compost piles 4-5' wide, 5-7' long and up to 48" high (yes, the Frame is adjustable), every month, with ONE 8-piece, 16" high portable wood frame (a technique I learned long ago, from an old Florida fella who could not erect a compost bin in his back yard due to CC&R restrictions - and HE called it a Frame - which is why I call it that) - which produces quality (high-nutrient, high-microbe and high-humus) compost (I call it 'quality' because that's what the experts at the Soil Testing Laboratory call it based on their written analysis reports).
And I'd also bet that you can't find the Frame technique in any book you can buy, even online (I haven't found one yet).
Now tell me that I'm providing "misinformation" because you can't find somebody else who wrote about the Frame technique. Experience Is VALID (even if not explained very well).
On the other hand, a request for proof or explanation of statements/advice is certainly valid. Regarding the Frame technique, I'll be happy to send you copies of my compost analysis reports (validated results) and post photos of the Frame in use (if somebody would tell me how to do that), as well as request letters be sent to you from the Texas AgriLife County Extension Agents who recognize me as a composting 'expert' and who sponsor the composting workshops that I teach for other Master Gardeners in three counties, about using the Frame technique (as well as several other 'bin' methods).
You are as welcome as anybody else on this forum to point out what you consider 'bad advice' or 'bogus information'.
My point (in the previous post) was that such can be done in a nice (respectful) manner, and you should provide the specific reasons why you think so. Giving a website address as a reference is OK, but it sometimes appears like a CYA move to justify your point of view, unless you state the specific reason(s) in the body of your message. Particularly if the person has to "wade through" a lot of web pages to locate your reference.

Sorry - Soilguy. I'm sure in all that typing there is probably something I could learn from you but alas....without white space I cannot read it. The words just blur.

Val

Don't worry Val, you didn't miss anything. ;-)

JPW - Thanks! While it does seem that there should have been something I could have learned in "all" that. It's good to know that I didn't actually miss anything.

Knowledge is power but - not unless your knowledge is knowledgeable. Huh?

Val

The composting area is in the background - I've been thinking about building some clear plastic covers for them and using them as 'proper' hot beds. What do you think?

burra_maluca

Yes give it a try. It would appear that starting with fresh horse manure is the best. You will have to modify the seeding schedule since Sweden is colder than where you are. Then you can post photos of the results. There is not much to lose. At worst you will end up with a pile of compost.