Climbing roses- help w/ planning

16 years ago

Hi, everyone;

Well after weeks of reading posts and looking up roses at HMF and looking at catalogs, it's finally decision time. And I could use some help! Here's the plan:

The back of the bed stretches 30 to 40 ft (some allowance there), and I would like to plant 3 or 4 climbing roses there. Fields of the Woods, Reve d'Or and Cramoisi Superieur are my finalists. So, a red on each end and a yellowish one in between. What do you think? And what about the foliage? The China foliage is a lot different from the roses I am used to, how will it look w/ an HT and a Noisette (what do Noisette leaves look like?)?

I was interested in Louis Phillipe but no one seems to have the climbing version (even HMF did not list a vendor).

These roses are supposed to be very healthy and disease resistant for the south- how about it? Thanks! Brandy

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (10)

grnthumber
16 years ago
There are several Louis listed on eBay right now...whether they are really Louis or are the climbing version I don't know.

I re-did my main rose bed this year--it's the same length as yours--and I also used red and cream(ish) roses for the climbers (a hybrid perpetual, a LF climber, 2 hybrid musks and a cemetery rose-probably a tea-noisette), with some chinas and a bourbon up front. Disease resistance and rebloom were big deciding factors for me.
jerijen
16 years ago
But you can get Cl. Cramoisi Superieur. And they are so much alike . . .

And you could not fail to love Reve d'Or.
Here it is in the Sacramento City Cemetery:

{{gwi:229134}}

Jeri
Related Discussions
Climbing old roses with fenced veg garden - need help designing
Q
Comments (20)
Hi Carol, I can understand how the idea of building permits ever got started--protection of the public!--and the real needs for that in housing and other buildings. But if it gets applied to pergolas, it seems unrelated to public safety. How much do they charge someone for building a pergola? Perhaps the charge is so low that it's a mere nuisance? The main argument for a pergola is that it's very inviting and attractive the year around. I have seen pictures of posts with chain swags in a famous Paris public garden and the roses look fantastic there. As best I can recall, the posts were large pillars and fairly tall, though I cannot find a picture now. The rub would be what it would look like in the winter and early spring if you're not building large (wide) pillars, but are using wooden posts. If you are headed toward a circle of posts, a circle of tepees might look better when uncovered in the winter and early spring. Our first fence was professionally installed and the fence-builder's suggestion was that posts set into a gravel footing hole would work fine. Anything set up as our do-it-yourself building books suggested, with the posts in concrete, would have been noticeably more money so we went for what we could afford at the time, and that was already plenty expensive. That method did work reasonably well, although not quite totally solidly if you pushed against a post. After about 20-25 years the posts had rotted in the ground, though, and my husband had to do the fence posts over again. At one time, our fencing on two sides held thin "farm" wire mesh fencing (6 feet high) and I loved the looks of it, because beyond the fence were beautiful woodsy areas I liked to be able to see and the fencing didn't detract or distract from that view. I think the sections were about 8' each, as you are considering for yours. I'm no expert at all on rabbits, but I wonder whether a fence that is only 3' high would be tall enough. I think, though I'm not positive as to the exact route the rabbit took, that a rabbit here has jumped up to some landscape timbers that were 3' or higher off the ground (to trim way back our Julia Child roses for us). Rabbits love roses. The best way to make sure you have no deer problems is to prevent deer from finding your roses and vegetables in the first place. I'd suggest that you not wait to see what happens, because once hungry deer have a memory of getting food at a certain place, it's much, much more difficult to ever keep them out. There's a book that discusses keeping out deer that's well worth reading now (right now, to help you plan). Your local library ought to have it, but if not, it's relatively inexpensive to buy from Amazon: "Deerproofing Your Yard & Garden" by Rhonda Massingham Hart. Deer aren't kept out by rose hedges, not if jumping them is to a spot they are already familiar with, such as would be the case for them while the roses were growing up. They don't jump into areas they can't see or are unfamiliar with, though. Deer will eat roses, all roses, even very thorny ones, if they are hungry enough. That tends to occur in winter and early spring during some years, but not all. (After a famine, generally caused by more breeding than the land's vegetation can support, the deer don't reproduce well, so the deer population pressure on the land lowers for a few years then; that cycle can mislead you into thinking that you've solved the deer access problem when you haven't.) Your gorgeous front gate with an arch will be wonderful, and so inviting. I've seen many pictures of that being done, and don't think I've ever seen one that looked less than wonderful! Best of luck! Mary Here is a link that might be useful: Phillip Oliver's pictures offer lots of landscaping ideas
...See More
Help picking out a climbing rose
Q
Comments (3)
Ann, I LOVE climbers... here are some to consider: Crepuscule Jaune Desprez Reve d'Or Clair Matin White Cap (if you want a white rose, this is THE one) Awakening Viking Queen is wonderful If you don't want a HUGE climber, consider the hybrid musks. I think it would be advantageous to you to post this question on the Antique Rose forum. Also, specify the dimensions you are looking to fill. Also, indicate some of your preferences. Robert
...See More
Need help with Zephirine Drouhin Climbing Rose
Q
Comments (22)
By "substantial" I mean thickness -- and those laterals are substantial enough to be considered future canes. And something to keep in mind is that if you train substantial laterals as though they were canes, and they sprout their own laterals, you'll find that the rose will not be producing as many new canes. This is because, as I hypothesize, the root system can support only so many actively-growing buds. When you prune all the laterals down to a few bud eyes, you're removing actively-growing buds -- and this sends a signal to the roots to activate buds lower down which will become new canes or basal breaks. If you instead allow the laterals to grow, then train them as if they're main canes, they'll sprout laterals of their own. This means more actively-growing buds, which tells the root system "we're good up here -- no new canes needed." Which way works for you depends on the rose -- some can flower for years on the same canes, while others' canes will be exhausted after a year or two. You'll know as you go. If the cane looks somewhat "deflated", and new growth is thin and spindly, the cane is probably exhausted and should be cut back hard. If your rose is own-root, you can remove it entirely, and a new cane can come from the roots. If your rose is on rootstock, you'll want to cut it almost all the way off, leaving a few inches of it remaining. If you look closely, you'll see the "sleeping" bud eyes -- there's usually a sort of red freckle in the middle of a thin line going around the cane. If you cut back to one of these, it'll wake up, and a new strong cane should spring forth. If you can't see them, just leave four or five inches of cane and wait to see where a new bud starts growing, then cut back to just before that. I'm not personally familiar with the rose you pictured, but based on what I see, I'd leave those laterals and let them grow. When they start to harden -- but before they're totally stiff -- I'd start guiding them to go in the opposite direction from the main cane against the wall. In your pictures, that means to the left. If and when the rest of that main cane going to the right becomes exhausted, you can cut it back to the first strong lateral, and let that lateral function as the main cane. It's all something you'll learn as you go and become familiar with your roses. You'll get a sense of when a cane is exhausted, and you'll just cut back to the first "not exhausted" growth emanating from it. Remember that more laterals will form the closer to horizontal a cane is trained, and let that guide you. If a strong lateral is growing too long for where you want it to go, just prune it back to a set of leaflets with a bud eye facing the direction where you want new growth to go. :-) ~Christopher
...See More
Help transplanting (maybe?) climbing rose?
Q
Comments (7)
Rox, I would look at the situation a little clearer. This rose, according to helpmefind.com gets to be 10-12 feet tall by 13-16 feet wide. It also says on helpmefind, that it is extremely cane hardy with the cane dying down to the snow line in zone 3 b. http://www.helpmefind.com/gardening/l.php?l=2.70752.1 It is going to eat that space. I would wait until early next spring to move it if you are going to. Or I would leave it there and make your bed wider and deeper, if you have the room to accomodate such a huge rose. I would NOT move it closer to the lattice. If you do decide to move it now, cut off all of the blooms and buds. Move as much dirt as possible with the rose. Water it very well and often. Put a shade tent in front of it with an old sheet or garden quilt so it doesn’t get stressed from the sun. Rebecca
...See More
rjlinva
16 years ago
Brandy,
How are these climbers going to be supported? Are they going to be growing on a fence? I'm just curious.
Robert
brandyray
Original Author
16 years ago
Grnthumber- I have never purchased anything through Ebay, and doing so seems like a gamble to me. What assurance do you have that you will get the item you ordered and that it will be in good shape?
Jeri- thank you so much for the pic! Looking at Reve d'Or on HMF it was impossible to tell if the rose was yellowish, pink, or apricot- and I do NOT want pink.
Robert- ah, yes, the trellis question that I agonized over, well, I settled on a plan from a book- 4 x 4's w/ copper pipe in a ladder-type style. That ought to support just about anything! And I will set the 4 x 4s in concrete (I just have to avoid the drain line that runs through there somewhere). There are still some uncertainties- given the roses' height, the trellis should be 8 ft tall (if 4 x 4s come in 10 ft lengths), I guess I tie the canes to the trellis in a graceful horizontal? I have never had a climbing rose and I do not know anyone who does (except my 2 neighbors that I gave my 2 free Altissimo's to- and they are still babies).
I guess Altissimo will be the other rose on the trellis. I hope it will be long enough for 4 roses.
The plan is prepare the bed first, buy the roses (next wk.), then build the trellis (a winter job for sure). Brandy
grnthumber
16 years ago
I only purchase from sellers with 100% (or very close) feedback. Also, several of these sellers are actually nurseries...case in point, Seminole Springs in Eustis, Fla, is actually selling some of their roses on eBay under the name weedsnthorns. I know several people here have recommended them. I purchased 4 own roots this June from another nursery (Eldritch Wood in TX--eBay ID countryrose368) and they were indeed the roses advertised. Penelope is already growing like a weed and has 2 sprays!
brandyray
Original Author
16 years ago
Thank you, grnthumber. It's nice to know there is a way of checking out the vendor first. It looks like I will be able to get what I want from a local nursery (well, an hour and half away) and from Countryside (which I have heard so much positive feedback about).
How many roses are too many to start w/? Brandy
rjlinva
16 years ago
Brandy.

If you are planning to train Altissimo horizontally along a trellis, this may be somewhat problematic. In my little bit of experience with this rose, I have found that it grows stiffly vertical. But, mine does not get supplemental water, so, that might make a difference. I would think there would be much better alternatives to train horizontally on this new, very valuable, piece of real estate, i.e., the trellis.

Robert
harryshoe zone6 eastern Pennsylvania
16 years ago
Great enabling Jeri.
jbcarr
16 years ago
Reve D'or will do very well in your climate. There is also a huge one at the Riverbanks Zoo in Columbia. Does well in a no spray garden there. Don't think I ever saw it looking like the one in Jerri's pic from CA though.
brandyray
Original Author
16 years ago
Thank you, JB, that's nice to know.
Robert- I was going to peg Altissimo, but I didn't know that it had such a stiff habit when I ordered it. I could just leave it at 3- Fields of the Wood, Reve d'Or and Cramoisi Superieur.
Maybe you can respond to how many roses are too many to start w/? I will be using a soaker hose to water, so I don't expect the new bed to take a lot of time once I actually get it planted. Brandy

Climbing roses- help w/ planning

Comments (10)

grnthumber

jerijen

Related Discussions

rjlinva

brandyray
Original Author

grnthumber

brandyray
Original Author

rjlinva

harryshoe zone6 eastern Pennsylvania

jbcarr

brandyray
Original Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

Climbing roses- help w/ planning

Comments (10)

grnthumber

jerijen

Related Discussions

rjlinva

brandyrayOriginal Author

grnthumber

brandyrayOriginal Author

rjlinva

harryshoe zone6 eastern Pennsylvania

jbcarr

brandyrayOriginal Author

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US

brandyray
Original Author

brandyray
Original Author

brandyray
Original Author