> Im just growing for fresh veggies for my little family of 3 and of > course the love of watching things grow :) Dont want too little and > certainly not an over abundance either i was thinking where i already > have 10 tomato plants to continue that pattern and just do 10 of each > veggie if that works. How big of a space would i need? Danger, danger! One pumpkin can take up as much space as ten tomatoes. :) My opinion: - Ten tomatoes: Assuming that they all live and thrive, that's a whole lot of tomatoes, far more than you're likely to need for fresh eating, but, hey, there's always sauce. I'd recommend giving each tomato a minimum of an eighteen inch by eighteen inch square. - Peppers: I'd give them at least a foot by a foot. They're much less productive than tomatoes; ten plants would be fine. - Ten healthy successful cucumber plants will feed Nebraska. OK, maybe that's an overstatement, but I wouldn't grow that many. My plan for my garden this year is to prepare three spots for vining cucumbers, plant three seeds in each spot, and then thin to one plant per spot when they're all up and healthy, for a total of three plants. - Ten healthy successfun pumpkin plants will cover Nebraska with leaves. OK, I'm really exaggerating, but pumpkins sprawl over a _lot_ of space. On the other hand, if you're not overprotective of your lawn you can plant the pumpkins near the edge of the vegetable garden and let them crawl over the lawn. But i still wouldn't plant more than five, and I say five only because it's always upsetting when you plant only two or so, and one of them dies. - Ten corn plants, on the other hand, isn't quite enough. The customary minimum recommendation for corn is a four-plant by four-plant block, sixteen plants total. The block planting increases the chances of good pollination. I plant my corn at eighteen inches; many people plant it much closer. This post was edited by chickenfreak on Thu, Apr 11, 13 at 0:57

My advice is that the soil should stay always moist - never "wet" or dry. If you add a half-inch to an inch of mulch (bark, straw, to some extent lawn clippings as long as they haven't been exposed to heavy amounts of herbicide) and make sure to leave the mulch about an inch away from the rose canes where they arise from the ground, that mulch will make it HUGELY easier for you to keep the soil moist. You should still check the soil surface under the mulch every day or two for the next few weeks (to a month or so) but as long as it feels moist on the surface the rose probably has enough water to keep going until it starts making new roots in its new home. If the soil seems dry gently add a half-gallon or so to the soil around the rose (maybe even a gallon). That's how I usually work. It's sloppy and inexact, but it works.

i would not mess around with warm water ... its a plant.. not a baby ... you should provide enough water... to moisten at least a one square foot area .. you need enough water around... to encourage the roots to extend out and away from the plant ... and once you get a large area moistened ... i would mulch to keep it that way ... a location might help .... i am baffled... up here in MI .. by the couple recent posts about peeps planting annuals in late fall.. almost winter ... so i am interested to learn how this all works ... but usually... it is said.. every plant has its season.. planting season ... and with annuals.. that is usually spring.. when the soil warms to germination temps ... so.. if you end up having problems ... DONT GIVE UP ... just resow in spring ... when the sun is in its ascendancy ... rather than in decline ... ken

Identification suspect - I have to wonder about one USDA Zone difference causing a nearly two month differential in fall color timing. Unless, perhaps, it is drought induced. In which case somebody needs to be watering them, if they look as bad as the red maples that are coloring already up here. I am convinced that the new seedling represents a new and distinct variety by virtue of the following unique characteristics which distinguish it from all other varieties of which I am aware: 1) A moderate rate of growth; 2) Shapely oval head which is formed and maintained without costly pruning or staking; 3) A habit of retaining the foliage from 3 to 4 weeks after all other red maples have defoliated, and 4) A distinctive and attractive Bright Crimson Red general color tonality of the foliage which is invariably attained in the fall season regardless of soil conditions or exposure UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE - Plant Patent 2,116 http://pdfpiw.uspto.gov/.piw?docid=PP002116&SectionNum=1&IDKey=442E89C058CB&HomeUrl=http://patft.uspto.gov/netacgi/nph-Parser?Sect1=PTO1%2526Sect2=HITOFF%2526d=PALL%2526p=1%2526u=%25252Fnetahtml%25252FPTO%25252Fsrchnum.htm%2526r=1%2526f=G%2526l=50%2526s1=PP02116.PN.%2526OS=PN/PP02116%2526RS=PN/PP02116 Horticultural techniques for successful plant establishment https://s3.wp.wsu.edu/uploads/sites/403/2015/03/Planting-fact-sheet.pdf