if i was you i would start at 12 am,so it gives water plenty of time too soak in too soiland for each root of grass too get its fill,before sun comes up,i water mine like that,and mine is a carpet for 4 years straight,kentucky blue grass,all so in the afternoon,around 3 pm,just too cool off blades of grass,on the hot days,take a butter knife ,stick it in the ground about 4 inches and rip a straight line in soil,about 4 inches long,then pull back that section,and look at the soil at that depth ,if its moist then your watering good,if its dry then you need longer times,the top 1/2 inch might be dry from sun,but from that point below it should have moister.grass burns because the roots are low on water supply,a well watered root can keep a blade of grass green in a 100 degree temp,and keep the soil sweet,you can use ashes from a fire place,or lime, you can do that once a month,not a heavy coat,i have two fireplace in my home,i have plenty of ash,i sift it like flour, and broadcast it with a spreader,hope this info helps,im not a pro but,it works for me

When you removed the bush from the pot did all or some of the soil fall away? If so, tiny feeder roots fell away with the soil. These feeder roots are the only way the bush can take up moisture. Until they grow back, your bush will suffer stress. Flowers take a lot of water. I'd remove the wilted buds to lessen the stress on the bush. There is a way to plant a potted rose bush that won't cause stress. E-mail me for instructions. Meanwhile do as hoovb said. Water deeply so it gets to the roots. A five minute sprinkling is not watering. Set your hose on trickle and let it run at the base of the bush for half an hour at least.

Yes, they might have gotten dried out or they might have been burned by the fertilizer - if too much fertilizer was used, or something else about the application was not right. In addition to being burned directly by mineral salts in the fertilizer recently planted stock that has been given too much fertilizer can also burn during hot weather due to the high amount of fertilizer causing it to produce excessively lush and soft foliage that the plant's roots cannot keep adequately hydrated during high temperatures. In arid or semiarid areas non-adapted kinds of plants can also be damaged by mineral salts in irrigation water. >wrong, wrong, wrongAnd much nursery stock purchased from retailers after it has been in their possession for awhile is nutrient deficient at time of purchase by the consumer.

Water the soil and not the leaves as watering the leaves can promote fungal leaf diseases. Your aim is to keep the soil evenly moist, which is -obviouslly- hard to do. To tell when to water the soil for sure, use the finger method: insert a finger to a depth of 4" into the soil (the mulch does not count) and water if it feels almost dry or dry. Also mark on your wall calendar the days when you watered. To help maintain the soil moist, cover the root area with mulch, about 3-4" of any type of acidic mulch, up to drip line or a little beyond. Plants in sandy soil need about 1/3 to 1/2 more water than plants in clayish soil. Continue watering with the finger method for about 2 weeks. Then review the information on your wall calendar. Determine how often you water and set the sprinkler to do the same on the same frequency (every three/four/etc days). If temperatures change by 15 degrees or more and stay there, consider rechecking using the finger method. Beware of moisture and temperatures problems this winter. I live in Zone 8a and our winter temperatores fluctuate a lot. Temperatures can zoom to almost 80 and the crash to the 20-30s. We can also go over two weeks without moisture or we can get a little rain each week. This winter try to maintain the soil moist as best you can with the help of the winter method. During future winters, you can water much less than the finger method suggests because the plants are dormant and well established. But just because they are dormant, do not think you do not need to water. One dry winter season ago, I turned the sprinkler off and forgot. I suddendly noticed that most of my camellias started browning the leaves! Oops! The part that I cannot help you with is exactly how much to water to apply to the soil for plants of this size. I try to make sure that each watering will keep the soil moist to a depth of 14-18" but perhaps someone else can advise for such large rootballs. There is Coast South Carolina Camellia Society in Mount Pleasant that you can try to contact. Wesley Fisher is their president. You can reach them at (843) 388-0329, at wesfish@bellsouth.net or at the link below. Does that help you? Luis Luis Here is a link that might be useful: Coastal Carolina Camellia Society Website