Anyone Use Rice Hulls as Soil Amendment?
struwwelpeter
14 years ago
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Comments (15)
bpgreen
14 years agoKimmsr
14 years agoRelated Discussions
Rice Hulls and Manure
Comments (8)First of all I would not plan to till. Instead I would plan to cover the soil with a mulch made from your composted rice hulls and manure. Covering the clay soil will protect the microbes in the soil from sudden changes in temperature and moisture thus allowing them to proliferate and soften your soil. Growing anything in that soil will help. Clover is a very good crop for fixing soil. You cannot put very much manure into a 5-gallon bucket before it is too heavy to carry. I use plastic bags and 1 bucket. I put the bag into the bucket, fill that bag about 1/3 to 2/3 full, tie that bag off, set it aside, and put another bag in the bucket. The only two times you might want to cover the pile are when it has been raining for a week or when it has been so dry that the pile is drying up. It needs moisture all the time to continue the composting process. I don't do ratios or turn my pile, but plenty of people here do. I would simply pile the manure up and cover it with rice hulls or previously finished compost....See MoreLooking for Rice Hulls
Comments (3)You'll have a problem in that it's a long way to where rice is grown. Arkansas are the closest growing fields to TN, (and they are probably totally under water this week.) Finding someone that will bag and ship them is going to really add the cost. Could you substitute a more local product? (I would suggest corn gluten meal, something readily available locally, but it's a germination supressant in that it accelerates growth excessively according to an old website from Iowa.) Wheat straw.... is available. And there are lots of food additives from the Farmers' Co-op. (Soy bean meal, cottonseed meal....)...See Moreuse expired wheat flour for clay soil amendment, without composting?
Comments (10)Wheat flour has some protein but it's not as high as meat (obviously) so I'm going to guess it is a 'weak green' on the green/brown composting scale. As such it should be fine to sprinkle it around as you describe. If you put a large amount in one spot you may draw some critters but a little here and a little there will not be noticed by soil, plants or critters, at least not in a bad way....See MoreDo soil amendment products really help our adobe clay soils?
Comments (34)Someone here is having good results with amending clay with 50 percent sand and then topping the area with sandy loam. The nurseryman who runs Laguna Hills Nsy and gave the soils class takes the stock he buys and removes most of the mix around the roots. Then he replaces it in peat moss, perlite, pumice,sand and some charcoal. He would add more sand in the mix he sells bagged but the bags would rip or be too expensive to ship. The charcoal is there because the world's best soils have some charcoal content. A building supply in Costa Mesa sells something called Rick's mix that is sandy loam and decomposed granite for improving clay. I have used the best potting mixes I could buy and watch the plants die off in a year. With the mix from Laguna Hills, it doesn't happen. Now I use a mix of my own soil, sand and the Laguna Hills formula. I have been making charcoal all winter and sifting it to throw out the ash which is alkaline. In the old days the nurseries planted in Sandy loam and sold bareroot. No one amended the holes or they planted high in large mounds or raised beds if drainage was poor. Now the wholesalers who planted in real soil are being edged out by those who plant in composted wood. The plants grow fast and are lighter to ship but eventually the breakdown of the planting material kills the plant. You can slow the process by letting the mix dry out almost completely before watering again, but it stresses the plants, especially in our warm climate. In the old days, a nursery could water every day with no root problems at all. A nursery could keep their stock for years and water every day and feed once a month until it sold. Now it's a race to sell the plant before the mix degrades and the roots die. The nurseries have to move their stock quick before then. Even if you plant it in good soil, the plant might not make it to five years because the mix around the trunk has become poisonous to the plant. Some plants grow fast enough to get roots out beyond into good soil. Arborists use augers to drill out holes around the trunk and backfill with sand to get the oxygen into the toxic area. You can also dig into one side and replace with 100 percent soil and six months later do the other side. The formula is stay away from three times the diameter of the trunk when removing roots. That was the formula for moving plants sold in soil wrapped with burlap. Any plant you fix needs to be shaded for two weeks. You can also help them by spraying the leaves with 1 gallon water 1 oz Karo syrup 1 oz seaweed 1 oz fish fertilizer a little wetting agent I hope this helps anyone trying to save a plant. I think it's rotten that plants are being sold that they know will have problems later on. People think it's their fault. The landscape reflects the trend towards only plants that can overcome the crappy potting mix and we all get taught wrongly to add this stuff to the soil at planting time....See Morestruwwelpeter
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14 years agoKimmsr
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