Argre, chlorosis can become worse over the course of the growing season. One way in which this can happen is if A) there is plentiful rainfall early in the summer, such that no supplemental watering is needed, and B) Later-season dryness forces one to get the hose out, and finally C) The water used for irrigation is of a high pH, like where I live. Many years ago, before I understood some aspects of chlorosis, I got into the Wave petunias and surfinias and other versions of the very vigorous petunias that have come into the market. Because it was a dry summer, I had to water these locations frequently, with our pH 8.7 water! It seemed, and it really was the case, that the more these plants were watered, the worse they got. Right around then, I made the discovery that these plants had a definite need for acidic conditions. The subsequent use of acid-inducing fertilizers for such plantings has completely alleviated this problem. So there's an example of chlorosis getting worse as the season drags on. Of course, I have no idea whether any of this applies to your red maple. +oM

The tree looks well established and no longer in need of having the grass kept away. The purpose of keeping the grass back is to keep it from interfering with the establishment and early development of newly planted specimens. Yours is already growing well and making it clear the grass is not a problem. Put the grass back and eliminate the appearance of an open sore in the lawn that has been created by removing the grass. You either want to end up with trees in beds entirely free of grass, or with grass coming up right to their trunks. Rootbound stock is commonly sold. Wash and/or carefully dig around the roots that are wrapped around the trunk and saw these out, where they are wrapping. Leave the ones that are growing away from the base of the tree intact. Replace soil so that the final soil line (after tamping) is just above the line where the roots start on the trunk and re-seed with lawn seed. Use enough soil for roots to be below mowing and trimming level but not enough to bury the trunk. As roots enlarge over time some may have to be allowed to poke up, with grass between them, using a mowing and trimming approach that works around them without the bark being damaged.

1.) Yes 2.) It boils down to what your expectations are. If you want a desireable long lived shade tree then NO. If all you want is some shrubby thing to look nice in a parking lot tree island for up to 10 years then you're in business. 3.) If you go treating the stump, you could end up killing the entire tree. If you want to make it a multi-stem, you can do what the growers do which is to cut it at the base then select the best looking stems that sprout. One thing to think about is that turning it into a multi-stem isn't necessarily going to prevent sunscald in the future. That is a very common problem with silver maple hybrids.

1. It would be better for the trees to be kept outdoors, especially while dormant so that you don't risk them leaving dormancy early. Generally, only houseplants should be kept indoors. 2. You can plant it, or transplant it before the ground freezes. If you decide to plant it, I wouldn't go and dig it up again. 3. Since the trees are only 8 inches, you don't need a very large pot at all for them over winter. I would put them into a 1 gallon size pot with a well-draining media. 4. Trees don't require as much moisture while dormant. I would only water them when the media completely dries. 5. Same as 4. 6. If you keep them outdoors, it would probably be best to keep them somewhat sheltered from the extreme temperatures. Snow acts as an insulator, so it wouldn't be the death of them if they were covered by it, although I would keep them under a covered porch or something similar. 7. When you do plant them, now or in the spring, make sure you don't plant them too deeply. You only want to make sure the roots are covered and leave the root flare (part of the tree where the roots meet the main trunk) exposed. Make sure to dig a hole just as deep as the roots go and twice as wide. It's better to plant the trees too shallow than too deep. Apply an area of mulch 1-2 inches deep around the trees, not letting the mulch touch the trunks. Keep the trees well watered during the first few growing seasons when they are in their permanent location.