Anything colder than zone 7 is pushing her limits. She grows in my zone 6 garden but not well enough to keep. If you look through the posts it's almost perfectly aligned that all zone 7's and up love her and zone 6's and down not so much. I do have one tucked against a house (house blocks the winter winds) and it does wonderfully.....heat from the house combined with the blocking of winds probably gives it a zone 7 micro climate.

Can we see photos?? That will help us be able to offer better advice.

Realize this is probably obvious, but just in case.... however the herbicide is applied, you should cut through any rhizomes, stolons, or other connections between the invaders and the keepers. Doubt drops applied to the invading phlox would outright kill a connected "parent", but might weaken it. and then you yank the dead vine off the ground? ...... I wonder if it would work for elm seedlings. @vossner, Usually there is just a few inches of vine to snip off after it's dead. Included the longer section with leaves in the photos mainly to show the effect. I may be over cautious, but try to treat anything killed with herbicide like diseased vegetation - goes into the trash rather than the compost pile; another reason I prefer to apply as close to the root as possible. While the tubes should work on any plant with a small flexible stem, probably overkill for anything that can be terminated as Roselee describes. We do the same with well-rooted redbuds, hackberries, privets, oaks, etc using a small foam brush instead of a dropper.... though like the dropper idea for getting into tighter spaces without accidentally brushing herbicide onto the adjacent plants as I'm prone to do. The tubes are good for delivering higher doses to large persistent root systems (campsis radicans, honeyvine,...) or other plants that continue to sprout after other methods of application.

I don't think so, but I might look at the armoire when picking the paint -- not necessarily to match but to make sure they flow together. I am going to have blue in every room on the first floor -- and I guess I did before but we reordered things so I feel like there will be more blue. My entire downstairs is blues and browns and the upstairs has been back and browns -- I'm just trading places with the colors now with the biggest change being changing out a brown leather sectional with caramel and navy walls or lighter and dark greige/bronze walls and a deep blue leather sectional (arriving next week!). If you are a blue person, it is not to much to have it in every room. It can provide continuity and help the flor f room to room. You probably don't want it to be the dominant color in every room, but in the mix. You are working with sofIer and medium tones and using them differently in the differnt rooms. I don't think you are going to overdo it.