More tree ID fun...(Acer)
hairmetal4ever
10 years ago
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hairmetal4ever
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoj0nd03
10 years agolast modified: 9 years agoRelated Discussions
More tree ID help, if you please...
Comments (6)Thanks for the info, those look like the ones. Another question for anyone who cares to offer your thoughts; those trees in the last pictures - what should I do about those. It seems that 2 of those cherry trees have sprouted up between 3 older dogwoods. The dogwoods are in decent shape, although they all have some 'dead' section up higher. I can't imagine all 5 of those trees being able to co-exist in that space. It appears that the prior owners cut the cherry down to the ground (those 2 trees have sprouted up out of an old trunk in the ground). Any ideas?...See MoreHelp with tree ID Tree #3
Comments (3)It will be more obvious once things have leafed out more. Kinda looks like a maple - maybe a Japanese maple?...See MoreMore Fun with Shin-Gyo-So
Comments (22)I quotes from the book of John Naka "Bonsai Techniques II": There are 3 types of bonsai display. SHIN is very formal, GYO is informal and SO is flexible and casual. Examples of the tokonoma displays: SHIN: a conifer bonsai with a scroll or a suiseki. The tree must be a single straight trunk, slanted trunk or a Moyogi style trunk. GYO: Mostly a deciduous tree such as elm, maple, etc. and kusamono, a weed or grass as complementary plant or suiseki or some other accessory, such as a figure of a bird or other animal. SO: Very flexible and casual. Bamboo, reed, palm or other plants, such as rush, grass or wildflowers are displayed with suiseki What can we learn from this ? At the first sight, it seems that a conifer is considered more formal than a decididuous tree. The formal forms are those with little or straight movement in the trunk....See MoreTree ID / questions.
Comments (7)It could be 'Crimson Queen' but there are several other very similar looking cultivars of redleafed dissectums - 'Garnet', 'Red Dragon', 'Red Select', 'Inaba Shidare', 'Tamukyama' just to name a few. While you can sometimes get some nice bargain plants at places like Home Depot, I really dislike their tendency not to label correctly or completely. To answer your questions: 1) Yes, you can plant now, just the same as if you were planting the tree in the ground. Because they are containerized, there is always the possibility these may be rootbound and you will want to correct by properly loosening the roots if that is the case. 2) Red leafed dissectums tend to be very sun tolerant. Depending on specific cultivar (unknown at this point), it could experience some greening out of the foliage in much sun -- some cultivars just retain their red color better than others. 3) Vertical growth will also depend on specific cultivar, how it has been trained and the graft location. Unless staked/trained to encourage more vertical growth, most of these varieties will tend to be mushroom or umbrella shaped - the lower the graft, the lower the umbrella will be. Some will actually produce branching that sweeps or lays directly on the ground. You will get some additional growth from the crown of the canopy but with these distinctly weeping forms, it is usually not very significant as far as increasing overall height is concerned. 4) How well they will do outdoors all winter in a container is variable. The roots are far more vulnerable to cold than is the top growth and in a container, these are exposed to greater cold than if the tree were planted inground. The larger the container, the less vulnerability. FWIW, I grow ALL my Japanese maples in containers and these are ALL left outdoors and relatively exposed in winter without damage, however I am in a slightly warmer zone (a full 8b, maybe even 9). If the winter temperatures drop in to the low 20's or teens for any length of time, you may want to protect the container. Bubble wrap works great!! 5) Lining the container will help to protect the wood but you can expect around 10 years of life from a half whiskey barrel unprotected before it starts to breakdown. You need to make sure you have plenty of drainage - for that size container, at least 3 holes of about an inch diameter each. Use screening rather than pot shards to keep soil in and NO layer of pebbles or rocks at the base! IMO, plastic lining just impedes proper drainage of a wood container and I'd avoid it. There is also no need to mulch a containerized planting. 6) Most commercial packaged soil mixes are not going to hold up satisfactorily for this purpose. They are too fine in texture and tend to compact and breakdown during the growing season and with the need for frequent watering. You need a heavily textured, bark-based mix. Aeration and very free drainage is the key for a long term potting soil. The recommended mix for something like this is equal parts of composted bark fines, Turface (or other high-fired clay product) and granite grit. The Container Gardening forum will be a big help to you in researching an appropriate mix or making up one of your own. Or check out the recent thread here on Crimson Queen planting (or similar title). Growing a maple long term in a container does require more effort and attention than growing one in the ground. Watering, fertilizing, repotting and root pruning must all be addressed carefully. There is a thread on the Container Gardening forum generally titled "growing trees in containers" that would be very much worth studying in detail....See Morehairmetal4ever
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