New tree on site of old tree

10 years ago

A Silver Maple Tree was planted on my mother's front lawn around 1955/56. I put it off as long as possible (second to last one remaining on the street) but, old and decrepit, we recently had to remove it.

Of course, I feel a replacement is needed but it's a tiny suburban lot with, really, only two possible spots, one, the exact location the Maple was. My questions are, as you may've guessed, about planting a tree at the same place there (recently) was a tree.

Will the existing roots interfere with root development of the new tree?

Should I wait before planting?..how long?

Should I attempt to accelerate decomposition of the old material?

My larger question regards nutrients available to the new tree. It's the type of community where the people think the best place for leaves is in black plastic bags. There's not much nature happening there, no soil building etc.. I suspect soil depletion may even have played a part in the old tree's decline. I'm not certain but believe Silver Maples can reach 100 years or older so I don't think "old age" was the only issue.

"Tree Fertilizer Spikes" seem a little gimmicky plus it seems I'd need hundreds. Bringing in a backhoe and a truckload of fresh topsoil would be great but also isn't really feasible.

I vaguely recall seeing something on a gardening show years ago using an auger to make holes all over the lawn and then injecting fertilizers? This seems a possibility. (Details, anyone?)

Is soil depletion a valid concern or am I over-thinking this? Ideas, suggestion are welcomed.

Thanks

Sort by:Oldest

Comments (4)

Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis
10 years ago
I have planted near a rotting stump with good success. Big slowly rotting white ash stump.

Now out front another was over the house. EAB approaching and a seam in the trunk gave me two reasons to remove it. That one was professionally cut and I had em grind the stump.

Not scientific, but the soil there still does not feel right two years later. I planted a japanese maple five or ten feet away and it is growing. Gras seed over the former trunk is not.

If I were real interested I would get my shovel out and dig a huge hole where that trunk was ground out. Then I would refill with hopefully some clay first then the CHEAPEST top soil the store sold me. My goal woukd be to simulate the soil in the rest of the yard so I do not make a fish bowl of poor or great drainage.

Plus, this way I get to avoid the fertilizer guessing game.
Good luck.
lisanti07028
10 years ago
When the town finally cut down the dead maple in front of my house, they planted an ash in the same spot about six months later, and the ash is thriving (knock on wood).

They did grind the stump down well below the soil line, and I mixed soil and compost with the chips and sawdust and kept the area fairly moist in the hopes of helping the decomposition along, but I'd have to think that most of the root mass was still there when the ash was planted.
Related Discussions
New tree in old tree's wake - how to fill the crater?
Q
Comments (15)
If you can find for sale in your area, a good sandy loam topsoil, which is not on the too sandy scale, That should mix well with the topsoil dug out of your previous project. I did the same thing with a friend when their Maple broke off in a storm, and after they wenched out the stump. The native soil there is clay, and we planted a a 20 gallon potted, 3 trunked 'Tuscarora' crape myrtle in the middle, four White New Dawn roses around the tree which are pruned and wrapped to encircle the trunks. Then we planted a hedge of Dwarf yaupon 'nana' around the roses with hostas at their base. That was three years ago, and it has surprised me to discover that friend has not encountered any drainage problems. Everything planted in the new bed has abundantly thrived. Maybe the lack of drainage problems is due to the voids left in the soil when the Maple tree's remaining roots decayed. Anyway, We used a full cubic yard of the best quality sandy loam topsoil we could find. First though we mixed gysumn into the clay around the hole. and then we layered the Sandy loam and more native soil into the hole. Near the top, we ran out of native soil so finished of the mounded bed with the sandy loam. The bed is watered with a soaking hose which circles around the tree and beneath the roses. Neighbors often praise the way the landscaping in that bed appears, compared to when the Maple tree grew there with hostas beneath it.
...See More
planting new tree in same spot as old tree was
Q
Comments (1)
When a city tree crew removes a tree, mot only do they cut the whole tree down to the ground, they also grind the stump and usually grind it quite a ways down. It's a rare tree that can come back from that. Although magnolias are notorious for suckering, especially from a stump, they almost never send up shoots from "leftover" roots. The left-behind roots will eventually rot away. The only thing you need to worry about is a good crop of mushrooms over the next many years. Joe
...See More
New to this site and just got some citus trees
Q
Comments (3)
Niffer, if you can post photos, we can help you out a lot better. Just upload the photos to Photobucket.com. Copy the .html code and paste that code directly into your message. That way, the photos will appear right in the body of your message. You'll know if it works when you preview your message. As to your citrus, outside as much as possible. I would only bring citrus inside if you're fearing a frost. Citrus are normally NOT indoor plants. 85 degrees is not too hot for citrus, it's actually pretty perfect as long as your trees are getting enough water. Remember, these trees were grown outdoors! Citrus will not tolerate wet roots. You can use cactus mix, but if you can find Farfad potting mixes, their Professional Nursery mix. It is an excellent bagged mix. I can't get it in my area, unfortunately, so I frequently use EB Stone's Cactus Mix. That will mean watering just about every day in the hot summer months. I would definitely re-pot, as sometimes the soil used by nurseries can be pretty dense. Great for their use to get a tree started, but can cause water retention issues and injured roots. Any for fertilizing your container citrus, Dyna-Pro's Foliage Pro is an excellent product. Post photos so we can see what's going on. Patty S.
...See More
Pictures of my NEW & Old Fruit trees
Q
Comments (38)
Wow Jacob, I dub you the Harry of SoCal! I can't believe how many tropical/subtropical fruit trees you have. I especially love your Mangosteen tree. Can you give me some pointers on what you feed it, how often and what kind of water you water with. Do you do any foliar feedings? I just recently got into citrus also and was looking for a blood orange myself and after doing lots of research, I settled on a Smith Red Valencia. I just purchased a citrus juicer and juiced bags of Moro and Taroccos blood oranges and depending on where I purchased the fruit from, it was very sweet and delicious or very tart. I really wish I had a backyard as large as yours. I can imagine how wonderful it would be once most your trees are in full production. You guys with large yards make me so envious. Thanks for sharing all your pictures and information. Simon
...See More
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
10 years ago
you are way over thinking this ...

if it was ground out.. and the grindings removed .. and you can actually dig deep enough to plant the tree.. you can not plant in the grindings ...

well ??? ..... then plan on planting the tree ..

especially a maple ...

have a soil test done.. and if it shows any problems .. fix those problems.. NO GUESSING.. and winging it ..

you are spot on on tree spikes.. just send me the money.. for what they are worth ...

if you mulch your grass.. or fert your grass.. the tree will get all it needs.. no need to double up by doing the lawn.. and then doing the tree ...

see link for planting guide ...

if you are looking for a high quality fall color tree.. i suggest you locate some good local tree farms.. and select the tree in fall color ...

i would also suggest that you go no bigger that 6 to 8 feet ...

and plant it in the appropriate season ... leafless... 6 to 8 weeks prior to bud out ... or in late fall.. depending where you are ...

if you select a tree in the wrong season.. pay a deposit.. and have them TAG the tree .. for future sale ... its done all the time ... it would help to know.. where you are ...

hopefully the planting guide will give a base knowledge ... and we can work with you from there ...

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link
calliope
10 years ago
The poster's home page indicates he/she is near Cleveland, Ohio. Lake effect zone.

FWIW, I have planted many trees in the same spot as one that was removed and never had issues. The caveat is tons of wood chips if they've been ground left in situ. That is the typical case where nitrogen deficiency occurs and adding it is recommended until they decompose.

New tree on site of old tree

Comments (4)

Toronado3800 Zone 6 St Louis

lisanti07028

Related Discussions

ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5

calliope

COMPANY

BUSINESS SERVICES

GET HELP

CONNECT WITH US