The 'Lanzam' (selling name Lancelot) mentioned is one such dwarf. It's from Lake County (wholesale) nursery in Perry, OH. They have made multiple other dwarf flowering crabapple selections, although so far 'Lanzam' is the only one I remember seeing at outlets here. And one batch looked like the cultivar was going to turn out to be too scabby for us, spotting already present at earliest stages in leaf development. Sargent crabapple is genetically dwarf and disease-resistant. A pink form on the market here is pretty nice in bloom. I've planted a couple of them myself. Not remembering the naming at the moment, but it might be this one - certainly looks similar. Here is a link that might be useful: Malus 'Parrsi'

Dwight, without seeing the tree, I can only suggest that it is suffering from "transplant shock". While you say "I've soaked the rootball several times this week,", how much water have you actually put on it, for how long? You really need to soak the whole root ball well, and it may be that you aren't doing that. If it's been really hot or windy, that's an aditional stressor for the tree, as much as being moved. I would truly soak it for several hours on a slow drip, and then wait and seee what it looks like - you don't want to drown it any more than you want to dry it out. If you didn't mulch it, I would do so, as widely as you can manage, no more than 4" deep, and no mulch in the 2-3" next to the trunk. Any organic mulch will be fine. 'Butterflies' is a deciduous magnolia, so it would loose its leaves this fall anyway. As long as the cambium layer - just under the bark - is still green, on the branches - scratch lightly at a branch to see - then I wouldn't worry too much. Just don't run out weekly to check, you may scratch off all the bark. Trim off any winter-killed branches come spring. Keep the roots watered - stick a finger down in the soil to be sure it needs it - the top 2-4" of soil will be dry - don't water on a set schedule. Keep it watered until the ground freezes, and if you get any really warm spells in the winter. Treat it as a newly planted tree, and keep it well watered for the next 2-3 years. Don't feed it now, nor for another year or so, and use a fertilizer rated for trees and shrubs, that lists magnolias.

Your plant actually looks really healthy. Citrus likes a lot of sunlight and hate wet feet. Make sure you let the roots dry out a little before watering. You should check the drainage holes on the bottom of your container before watering. Feel the potting soil through the drainage holes and if it is still wet or very moist, you may have been overwatering and possibly causing leaf drop. The leaf drop may have also been caused by the stresses of shipping. Members of this citrus forum highly recommend the Gritty mix or 5-1-1 mix for citrus, I forgot which one. The potting soil should have very good drainage. Commercial potting soils often contain too much organic matter which holds excessive amounts of moisture which eventually causes root rot and death of the plant. Simon

Hey pinkflower.. congrats on getting an Egg magnolia (yay!)... For now, I would place it in a warm location, high humidity if possible, and carefully monitor its soil so that it is moist but not soggy. What's the weather like at your area? Does your plant get any sun? I'm thinking maybe it got too cold and the soil stayed too wet. Your plant went into a big shock but Egg magnolia is a tough plant so the chance of it recovering is good. You will probably see some die back on the top. Did you repot your plant when you get it? What soil medium did you use? A good soil medium will help tremendously if you live outside of its ideal climate. When you have the time, start reading the threads in Container garden. It's an incredible place. :) Maybe start out with these two topics: http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0116163312392.html http://forums2.gardenweb.com/forums/load/contain/msg0914024623640.html Good luck!