First, the DIY test kits are a waste of time and money. They are notorious for being inaccurate and mis-leading. So either get a pro test done from your local county AG office or don't do anything to your garden based on the DIY kit. Second, most all garden soils will test normal to high in P as most all soils have plenty of it naturally - one reason why most new fertilizers are being sold P-free. Third, most compost can't be your only source of nutrients, especially N, unless your soil also has a very active soil-food web, a good working micro-herd of bacteria to convert the compost to nutrients for the plants. How much N your compost may have in it all depends on what the rabbits are fed and how long it is composted. N leaches and evaporates out of compost and soil very quickly - which is why it always tests low - so it may require regular additions of other N sources or at least of more quality compost several times during the season. Too many who grow exclusively with compost make the mistake of assuming a 1x a year addition is sufficient for N. Unfortunately, given the fragile nature of N, it isn't. But the place to start is with a REAL soil test. Dave

The only way to know whether the Phosphorus and Potash is too high, too low, or about right is to have a good reliable soil test done of the soil in that proposed garden plot. An in depth look at the soil will also help answer other questions that are just as important such as the soils pH, drainage, soil life, type of soil, and about as important as the rest how much organic matter is in that soil. Contact your state universities Cooperative Extension Service office about having a good reliable soil test done and also dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drainsâ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. to see what else you can about that soil.

The main "nutrient" you obtain with adding horse manure is nitrogen (pee). As long as you don't bury the bud unions or crowns of own root plants and are sure to use sufficient water to prevent ill effects of that much nitrogen, you should have wonderful success. My only suggestion would be to go lighter on the nitrogen in anything added. I've used it for many, many years. with and without additional fertilizer, depending upon my budget at the time. A favorite combination has been the manure, organic all purpose and Grow Power Plus. Rather low guaranteed analysis but the manure and organics worked magic while the Grow Power Plus gave a light feeding. That combination has regularly massaged decent soil from adobe hardpan. Watch your dogs...they LOVE eating the manure and organic meals. Probably won't hurt them, just gross to think about. Kim

Aphids reproduce more quickly on plants with high levels of nitrogen in their leaves, and manure is an excellent source of nitrogen. I would try adding some fertilizer which is high in phosphorus in order to encourage blooms and fruit and cut down on new (and tender) green growth. Also, you should try to control the aphids before you get an infestation. I think the insecticidal soap is a good idea, but you have to keep at it. Or else, something as easy as wiping them off a leaf with a gloved hand, or spraying them off with a jet of water, or even cutting off part or all of a leaf will curtail the explosion of aphids until that time when natural predators move into the area.