Very good plan, subk3 It is nice to know that the manure is Home-made by your own horses. The reason I say this, is that today I got a free truck load(about one cubic yard, I loaded and hauled myself). So I was just wondering what the PH level of HM is? So I did a net search and got to the point of confusion: Some said HM is acidic, some said it is basic and some mentioned that it is close to nutral(7.2)Finally sifting through the information I found out the following: 1) adding hey, straw,..can make HM acidic. 2) Adding lime WILL increase PH way too high. 3) pure composted HM is perfectly safe as additive to any garden soil, be it acidic or alkaline, provided it is done in say 50/50 or even at a lower ratio. but the number(2) HM can be problomatic if you have a sweet soil already or it is at the borderline. But since my soil is still low in PH (about 6.2) I should have no worries. But I will test the manure and also will ask the kind donor if there is any lime in their HM.

Kimmsr is right if you want to get a better indication of what is happening. What kind of soil test, though? Please see http://www.aglabs.com/soil_testing.html The Morgan extract indicates ... "Nutrients that are biologically active. This test closely relates to the visual symptoms plants display. Plants may be grown directly above limestone bed but show a calcium deficiency. The Morgan test picks this up and shows a low reading of biologically (available) calcium even though there is plenty of calcium in the soil." The bunny images are great Pablo. So, Daniel were you able to find a source of 'browns'? Terran Here is a link that might be useful: Types of soil tests

If you have plenty of nitrogen already in your soil and you add nitrogen fertilizer, you can get overly lush foliage growth at the expense of flowering and fruiting. Perhaps a soil test would be in order if you don't discover the cause quickly. How much coffee grounds did you use? They are a good nitrogen source, I've used em to fertilize container plants that were suffering nitrogen deficiency.

Whoa. This is what happens when we let well educated people post on worm poop boards. I feel like Lois Lane when she found out who Clark Kent really was. Now you have me all excited. Sorta took off the glasses there sbryce. If we are talking about the "structure of the atoms" that make up vermicastings can I beg a penny for your thoughts on the "Mucus type substance coated on each particle that increases aeration in the soil provides excellent water retention properties and improves the drainage in heavy soils." *1 I think I remember chuckiebtoo once or many times posting something different but in essence similar to "Earthworms excreta (vermicast) is a nutritive ‘organic fertilizer’ rich in humus, NKP, micronutrients, beneficial soil microbes - ‘nitrogen-fixing and phosphate solubilizing bacteria’ and ‘actinomycets’ and growth hormones ‘auxins’, ‘gibberlins’ and ‘cytokinins’. Both earthworms and its vermicast and body liquid (vermiwash) are scientifically proving as both ‘growth promoters and protectors’ for crop plants." *2 and "As earthworms are working their way through the top soil they mix humus and mineral particles. They are turning our soils into a sponge-like structure with enormous numbers of small, medium, and slightly larger burrows and pores. This worm created ‘sponge’ stores water, nutrients and air for the plants and other microorganisms to grow. Scientist call this the rhizosphere, where water, nutrient, and air are exchanged between plant roots, microorganism, fungi, clay minerals, groundwater, and the atmosphere." also *2. Plus "Earthworms have a crop and gizzard just like birds where the mix of food is ground down to very small fractions. Bacteria and antibiotics in the worms intestinal tract destroy pathogens, introduce enzymes (which makes the nutrients plant available), produce plant growth promotors, and much more. By now earthworms have created a valuable mix of nutrients, humus, enzymes, plant hormones, bacteria, and fungi while passing through an intestinal passage of only 5 cm. Before the mix is excreted, the ‘casting’ is finally coated with a mucus so it becomes a strong humus-soil aggregate." three for the cost of one *2. Should we be trying to retain this aspect and not make worm muck? Should we all be working towards individual "puffs" of vermicastings? Is there something in the atoms that speaks to this? I think this coating texture I am looking for in vermicastings is on a molecular or a bit bigger level an advantage to plants. But I do not know why. Maybe I do not need to in order to make nice vermicompost? For chuckiebtoo's excellent photo of intact vermicastings which look like coffee grounds or cigarette tobacco: http://forums.gardenweb.com/forums/load/verm/msg041310533109.html?1 *1 is: http://betuco.be/compost/Vermicast%20Specifications.pdf *2 is: http://www.ecocast.co.nz/vermicast If the gods are with me and my fingers do not accidentally hit delete and the solar flare does not eat my post I will be a happy vermicomposter.