I don't think we can really totally get away from this problem without spending a fortune in clay, or just growing directly in the ground. For all my small containers I use clay... those are cheap. But larger clay pots are outrageously expensive! I'm sure newspaper leaches its ink, not to mention whatever is in the paper product, itself. Minerals/chemicals in water... especially treated city water... cause PVC to leach its toxicity into the water. That's how I understand it. It's the worst. We're doomed! We can either go with the flow and use the least toxic items, or we can forget about container gardening and just grow right in ground... organically of course! Think back to a time before plastics and petroleum products were part of our world... there were a lot less illnesses and diseases... we are slowly killing ourselves with all our "modern" inventions and waste from those inventions, or pollution.

I always get a white mold on the soil surface (not botrytis) when I sow chives. It looks kind of like a spun webbing instead of a typical mold. Could this be the same you had? This stuff doesn't do the chives any harm and disappears on its own once the plants go under the lights. Holes shouldn't be necessary, especially if the pots are drying out so quickly. The plastic is put on in order to keep the seeds and the soil moist enough to initiate germination. I usually can keep the plastic on until the seeds germinate whether that's a few days or a couple of weeks without needing to water. I always have my germination area dark and use heat mats so that probably helps with moisture consistency. I always take the plastic off (humidity domes in my case) after the first signs of germination and then put the seedlings under lights. I know other people like to leave them on until the plants are pushing against the top. I don't see the benefit of leaving them on after germination. I like the newly emerged plants to get as much air circulation as possible in order to avoid disease problems. My technique allows the soil surface to dry out every day or two at the most. I rarely have any problems.

In the Southland I would think direct sowing would be easier. You didn't say what you were sowing, but if it is common annuals direct sowing would be much easier all around. In any case when I sow seeds in a container for transplant later, I just use those small black 6-packs that nurseries sell their stuff in. Use seed starting mix to fill the 6 pack. Put the 6 pack so it sits in water (an upside down frisbee works good for this, or a plate or cookie sheet would work) and once the soil gets soaked, remove 6 pack from frisbee and sow your seed. Then add bright light and warmth. Success! Seeds want to grow and will if you don't get in the way. Whenever your 6 pack looks dry or is very light when you pick it up, it is time to water again. Watering from the bottom as described above is best as the top is not disturbed. And the seed starting soil mixes are easy to break apart to single out your seedlings for transplanting. I've never been a fan of peat pots, but that is not important. Hope these tips help.

Jane, that is such a nice looking orchid) Jim sent me one and I love it. James, I have discovered the same thing over the years. I have lost a few trying while at the same time most just don't perform well. But I see a difference finally after trying all these years. I am thrilled at whet they are doing now. It feels good knowing they are safely growing now especially now that I can see through the pots. I was tired of guessing. Dbarron, same here. I feel you when you describe what you are doing. I am happy you are finding out what works best too. I am going to get more tree fern before it's hard to come buy. I have actually placed mt phals on a heat mat and it is working great thus far. I also checked out that site and I like it. It's my next go to and they have lots of selections. Thanks.