You say you 'need a quick solution' . . . What are the timeframes involved here? How long ago did you apply the Espoma stuff? You apparently were expecting a very rapid response from your ailing roses. Assuming you have diagnosed the ailment correctly, exactly how rapid a response were you anticipating?

I just got the soil tested by a lab so I figure it's diagnosed correctly.
I'm not looking so much for a very rapid response, but I'm concerned that they'll just keep going downhill until it all "kicks in" so to speak. I just don't want them to die while I'm waiting lol.
Here's a couple pics of what's going on with my clems in the same bed as the roses. I'm just afraid I guess that they'll all be weakened enough that they'll eventually just die if I do not at least find a way to keep them going. I hope I've explained better now :)

If waiting for the "slow-acters" won't kill the roses and clems, then I'll wait and let nature do it's stuff.

Leaves on Beauty of Worcester clem
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another of clem
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Pic of Westerland leaves problems
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Kentstar,

According to the below link Espoma Soil Acidifier takes several weeks to work depending on certain factors.
Scroll to you get to your Espoma Soil Acidifier product.

Here is a link that might be useful: Acidify

I already have some and have broadcasted it. :)

That's leaf burn. It has absolutely nothing to do with pH levels. It could be from frost when the leaves were growing, from spray collecting on the sides of the leaves, or from excessive fertilizing. At this point, there isn't much to do about it.

Kentstar,

Maybe Michaelg or someone who knows all about this stuff will come along soon and advise you.
I'd personally be afraid to start adding a bunch of things all at once to your soil. Best of luck!

Right, could be leaf burn. Since I broadcasted, some got on the leaves, and although I rinsed right off, it could have caused it.
I think you're right. Maybe I should just wait and see what happens. I get so impatient and will probably kill them with kindness!
How about the potash though? Is that slow or fast acting?

All potassium fertilizers are "fast" or immediately available to the plant, except for greensand which is hardly available at all. The 0-0-60 product that you have is extremely concentrated and should be applied at the rate of only 1 tsp per plant as the label says. If you were careless with this product, that is the cause of the damage. The burning has nothing to do with soil pH. It is probably salt poisoning from overfertilizing. If so, flush the soil with water.

I just applied what the soil test said. Teaches me not to listen so much to a soil test!
Thanks for letting me know that the potash is fast acting. I will know next time to be more careful with such a potent product. Live and learn I guess! We all do...

May I 'butt in' and ask some ??? I stopped using granular ferts. last summer, when I joined GW and read abt. 'organic'... I use only organics now, Milorganite, Black Cow, Black Hen, Alfalfa pellets, Cottonseed meal, Fish Emul..and lots of leaves and compost, mulch..and keep it thick and heavy..... and do think there is a big improvement in my roses, they seem to resist BS and are more vigorous..... I have also been told that organics correct any PH problems, that by their 'breakdown' it is a natural process... I do have loads of earthworms and have been told that is a good sign.... I have not had to spray whatsoever since last Fall, and we are well into BS season and bug season here in Fla., and attribute this to the rich soil that using organics has produced..... I don't know if my assumptions are correct and would love to get some feedback from the experts..... Thanks,..... sally

A pH of 7.7 isn't that bad for roses. Sulfur will take a few months to lower the pH but I wouldn't worry about it. You'll need to get another soil test next spring to see where the pH is at and I wouldn't add any more acidifier until then.

saldut,

Yes Sally improving your soil like your doing will help. ;-)
The BS part i'm not sure. Keep us updated on how your making out in the future.

Here, and on the previous thread you posted regarding you're current problems, some folks weighed in who obviously love to hate greensand. 'Tis a pity, 'cause during my many years of gardening I've found it to be a real boon in situations like yours.

At application, a small percentage portion of the potassium in greensand does, IN FACT, become immediately available. More becomes available over time at a gradual pace. Consequently, it would be exceedingly difficult to damage your plants with greensand. Your photos give stong indication that, in an effort to ameliorate a problem, you have actually increased the stress on your plants.

If one is already midway into a growing season and attempting to amend an existing bed with actively growing (albeit stressed) plants, I submit that the last thing one should do is to shock those plants with a sudden, fast-acting infusion of whatever nutrient their environment lacks -- and that may be particularly true if the sudden overload is potassium. The good news is that your plants will recover. Keep them well hydrated. Also, I'd probably withhold all fertilizer for quite a while . . .

I agree jaxondel. I'm going to withold any more fertilizers for the season. I think what I put on is probably an overload! We are supposed to get some rain the next couple days and I'm hoping that it'll help dilute the stuff even more.
Good news, (I think so) that my William Baffin is starting up again (a couple more stems growing now). I have to remember that they were just planted last season and are babies! I tend to over love my plants and kill them that way. lol
I do like greensand myself! When I first prepared the rose bed I amended with greensand. So what if it takes a while to work right! It's good stuff. I wish I could have used it now, but the bed is in full swing and I can't work it into the soil now.
I will keep everything well hydrated. Plants don't WANT to die! They want to live.
One lesson I learned too is that after officially and finally getting the soil test, I realize now that my do-it-yourself soil pH tests were wrong! And that I have a slightly alkaline soil. And, like a dummy, I was top dressing with mushroom compost in fall the last couple years, and making the problem worse!
Never again will I use that mushroom compost! Now, I am waiting on my compost pile, but in the meantime I will just top dress in fall with maybe cow manure. That should be ok right? It'll sit all winter and be good for them in spring.