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Craftsman Tractor Starting Problem

11 years ago

My Craftsman Model 917-289342 tractor has given me stating problems over the past couple of years. General problem is starter solenoid engages the ring gear but does not turn engine over. I've replaced both solenoid and starter motor, and while I get temporary relief, the general problem always returns. Today, I tried a different approach. I removed the spark plug, and lo and behold the engine cranks fine. I reinstall the spark plug and I'm back to the general problem.

Any ideas about what's going on here?

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Comments (5)

bill_kapaun
11 years ago
IF you had a Briggs engine, the general answer would be to adjust the valves, since valve lash adjustment is crucial to the compression release working.

Problem is, you have a Kohler Courage, which is different.
From the service manual-
Operation
ACR mechanism consists of an actuating spring and a pivoting fl yweight/control pin assembly, located in exhaust side cam gear. A thrust washer and mounting closure plate hold ACR in position. At cranking speeds (700 RPM or lower), spring holds flyweight in and rounded surface of control pin protrudes above exhaust cam lobe. This pushes exhaust valve off its seat during first part of compression stroke. Compression is reduced to an effective ratio of about 2:1 during cranking.
After starting, when engine speed exceeds 700 RPM, centrifugal force overcomes force of the flyweight spring. Flyweight moves outward, rotating control pin to expose the flat surface, which is lower than cam lobe. Control pin no longer has any effect on exhaust valve, and engine operates at full power.
When engine is stopped, spring returns flyweight/control pin assembly to compression release position, ready for next start.
tomplum
11 years ago
Bill is probably on the right track. You will need to pull the valve cover and have a look. The stud that retains the rocker can back out on these like the Briggs will. If all is secure and the lash is set properly, my guess is it is inside. You can slip a .015 feeler gauge in the Exhaust valve rocker and then see if it wants to crank normal as a double check. The plastic cam gear develops a problem where the ACR doesn't work and is serviced separately. You would need to split the engine, though the engine doesn't need to be removed from the tractor to do so. If this is the case, loctite the sump bolts on the reinstall.
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I take it that the engine does not even TRY to start, but just spins when the starter is engaged. You need to make the test that mownie suggested. There are probably more safety interlocks than just the seat switch, and one of them could be "shorting" out the system. There is likely one on the clutch/brake pedal, and another on the PTO lever (the one that engages the blades), and one on the shift mechanism (to prevent starting if the transmission is in gear.) Testing these will require a multimeter. There is also a ground wire from the engine to the frame; typically on Husqvarna/AYP/Electrolux/Roper machines, it is a rather small black wire that is attached to the underside of the tractor frame just below the engine and inside the right front wheel. You've likely got a bad magneto or (more likely) either an electrical short caused by chafed insulation, corrosion, or loose connection, or a malfunctioning safety interlock switch. This all based on your being certain that there is no spark at the plug.
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Have you actually had the battery load tested? IF not, how do you know it's good. Assuming a good battery, you might want to try removing the spark plugs and see if it cranks. GROUND the plug wires! There's a possibility (if a gravity flow carb) that the carb has leaked through, filling the cylinders with gasoline and hydro locking the engine. IF that's the case, you don't want stray sparks as gasoline is spurting out.
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Just wanted to post a follow up on the status of my tractor.. I got a replacement coil as was suggested and I did get a spark and finally got the tractor started again! Just wanted to say thanks to those who posted, especially mownie for providing the B&S site as the part listed on the Sears site was in fact different than what was on the B&S site. It did take a few more cranks than usual and had to take it out of choke to actually get it started, but I'm in business again just in time to get the final mowing of the leaves in! I'll keep an eye on the current situation of it not being able to start while in choke mode, but hopefully that's just because it hasn't been started in so long. If you have any immediate suggestions as to what the cause may be, feel free to post. Thanks again!
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walt2002
11 years ago
Well I think the answer is the same. Valve clearance affects the operation of the compression release. You can go to the Kohler site and download a Service manual for your engine free.

Walt Conner
wwallace62
Original Author
11 years ago
Gentlemen:

Thank you all for your prompt responses. I had hoped it wouldn't be getting into this depth, but now that grass cutting season is ending what else would I do with all that time on my hands?
bill_kapaun
11 years ago
You didn't mention anything about the battery.
You may want to get it load tested before condemning the engine.
Tractor batteries are suspect after a couple years.

Also, if you have a voltmeter, you might want to run some voltage drop tests over the crank circuit connections.
You could have a bad ground for example, from where the engine bolts to the chassis. Kind of out of sight-out of mind but still part of the circuit.

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