Not enough information to be able to offer you any help. I, for one, would like to know your general location on the planet (climate is an important clue), some of the plants that are affected, and pictures, if possible. Is the home new or just new to you? If so, is the landscaping new, as well? Any clues you can think of...irrigation cycles, type of soil, drainage, rainfall, etc. would be helpful.

As others have mentioned, spider mites are an ongoing challenge with English ivy. I have managed to keep about 7 ivy plants alive indoors. Though I have found spider mites on a few leaves, and there are probably a few plants that have some mites right now, I think the most important thing is early intervention. I don't think you should obsess over eradicating mites from these plants entirely, as they tend to come back quickly, but the goal should be to keep them under control in the first place. That being said: 1. Remove any infested leaves with a mottled appearance immediately. I see you have some relatively healthy leaves left, and you could keep those in tact and perhaps save part of your plant, but cut off the others. 2. Every time you water the plant (because I have a chunky soil, it's about once a week), gently spray the leaves with a shower or sink spray attachment. Turn them over as you spray them, feel the texture of the leaves over your fingers, examine them, and remove anything that looks discolored. 3. Some here recommend an insecticide, and I think that's fine, but in my experience, you just have to be diligent in observing the plant more than anything, before things get out of control. 4. Avoid transferring indoor plants outside in the summer. This is just a personal preference, as I don't want to have to deal with a bug issue once I bring them back inside or infest my other plants. 5. Ivy likes medium-high light, but also likes cool evenings, but also likes humidity so their leaves don't dry out. Can you say, "Goldilocks plant?" It's a challenge with most home environments as we tend to regulate temperature more moderately. Ivy is beautiful, and it can be fussy, and I am by no means an ivy expert, and I have lost a few. However, having learned over time, I think the extra work is certainly worth it! Don't give up!

I know this is long, Heidi, but I've got personal experience with your situation. To be brief, I'm confident that this tree is not even close to death's door, and would be much better served by fixing the causes of its decline now so it can green up and be much healthier to deal with the stress of repotting next summer. In particular, your ficus was thriving until three months ago, and we know that the decline was caused by low light and poor watering, which means that fixing the root congestion and soil aren't an emergency. To be clear, gardengal is probably right that you could repot now without killing the tree, but because it would be easy to get it green again by correcting the biggest problems now, you would be best off waiting until summer to do major root work and put it in a great growing medium. Then you will be rewarded with a burst of new growth, and you'll soon be pinching growing tips and pruning to control its enthusiastic growth and tell it to fill in all those gaps left by dropped leaves. My experience: I have two smaller roughly five year old ficuses that were completely rootbound and were stuck in a dim corner. I often forgot about watering until leaves started yellowing and dropping, and the I'd fill their tall plastic 'saucers' and left the water there until they stopped soaking it up. In other words, I drowned the roots every time I watered, and maximized the amount of deadly mineral deposits in the soil. Aside from feeble attempts to maintain a few leaves, they had almost stopped growing entirely because their depleted energy reserves made them more vulnerable to attack and only allowed them to put our a few leaves at a time, and most of the buds and leaves that appeared were killed by spider mites. But these are tough plants, so they clung to life for about three years before I finally cared enough to search for answers and found these forums. I immediately started treating the mite infestation, thoroughly flushed the pots (I swear I could hear them sigh with relief), fertilized with a weak solution of Foliage Pro, which has a great ratio of basic nutrients plus all the micronutrients plants need, moved it in front of my best window, which only provides mediocre light, and added bright white (not soft white) 5000k 100W led and cfl bulbs in clamp-on fixtures. Two months later, each branch has about half a dozen new leaves, including some emerging near the stem (a sign that the tree is getting better). It's wonderful to see them getting so green, and I'm already reading up on how to prune them when they get growing again. So Heidi, if I were in your place, I'd start by checking the leaves for spider mites with a bright light and a magnifying glass (they're tiny red dots on the leaves, and you may see little bits of webs on the leaves our branches). Ask about treatment if you find any. Then I'd flush the pot (details below), fertilize with a 3:1:2 ratio fertilizer (miracle gro general purpose granules are easy to find and the right ratio), move it to the best window I had, and put two 100 or brighter led or cfl bulbs in it for 12 hours a day, using a timer. From then on, check soil moisture by pushing a sharpened 3/8" dowel all the way through to the bottom of the pot, and DO NOT WATER until the dowel comes out completely clean and dry (at that point there's still a lot of water inside the soil particles). When that happens, water until about 15% of the water exits the drain holes, let it drain, and then either tilt the pot at 45 degrees for 15-30 minutes after watering to remove excess water, or insert a wick into a drain hole and raise the pot up so the wick won't come in contact with the drained water. You can wait until the surface of the soil is dry to start checking the soil moisture, but after that you should check daily until you have a feel for how long it takes for the poor to dry up. About flushing: flush with lukewarm water, using about ten times the pot's capacity, then give it a weak solution of fertilizer. Use R/O (reverse osmosis) water if possible; water from supermarket water machines are usually $.39 per gallon, and that little pot will maybe need two or three gallons to do the job. My water is hard, so I used R/O water to flush, and because my tap water is hard I use water from my cheap faucet-mounted filter for regular watering. And the reason midsummer is the best time to do something stressful is that 1) ample summer sunlight generates much more energy from the leaves than even a lot of winter sunlight can provide, and 2) the plant is programmed to put energy into new growth in summer, whereas in winter it wants to store it for use in the spring. From several people's experience, including Al (talks), who knows whereof he speaks, if you take two healthy plants and repot one now and one next June, the second will be in better shape next fall than the one you repotted a year earlier. Sorry for my rambling post, and I hope it helps at least a little.

did you dampen the cactus mix before planting in it??? ... so that all the roots are touching moist but not wet media???? your best bet is probably to start a new one .... and leave this one alone.. and see what happens to it ... it either lives or dies ... but continuing to stress it.. with more an more remedies .. might not be best ... its extremely stressed ... and its not hungry.. so fert isnt going to do anything with it ... anyway.. time for some guacy .... and a new pit ... its your tree ... not a baby ... be happy you got a few years out it.. and move on.. emotionally ... it really is a full sun outdoor plant ... and no matter what you do.. it isnt going to be a long term indoor plant ... some peeps might get away with it ... but many dont ... ken