There are a number of factors that will determine how much horse, or any other manure or any other nutrient source you can use, but the only way to know that is with a good, reliable soil test. What is the humus level in your soil? How is the balance of Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium, Calcium, Zinc, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum, Sulfur, Boron, and Copper?

For a number of years I transplanted into soil beds which had just been covered with about 8 inches of moderately fresh manure (horse or cow). I was improving soil by introducing the manure, and did not have a ready source of much plant debris. I was putting down about 8 tons of manure a week, and found that the transplants thrived in the straight manure beds. The plants obviously enjoyed the rich environment. Even by the later part of the season the soil was much more mellow, and became very porous and workable. I was more conservative than the organic certification guidelines about wait periods between application of manure and harvest of crops. Since I was amending acres of land, I could choose crops that were suitable for the manure beds, and put crops which I didn't want to get the manure exposure on areas treated in previous years. While it may be nice to add plant debris to animal manures when making compost, it is certainly not necessary. Animal manures will compost well on their own; adding some plant debris may help to capture some N that may otherwise be lost, but the final product of manure-only composting is quite good. These days, I generally do not bring in manure for soil for two reasons: I no longer need the external input, and unfortunately, many of the manure streams near me are contaminated with persistent herbicides. I've tested a beautiful, huge set of piles of llama manure just a couple miles from me which has aged for over 7 years now. It had easily detectable, damaging herbicides still in it. A small commercial grower had used some in their fields, and they lost the crops in that area. For now, if I import organic materials, it will be readily available yard waste, municipal compost and wood chips. Renais

Many garden centers sell inexpensive pH test kits. They're fun, and simplify all that pH stuff. Your manure and organic matter (and the life forms they support) will nudge it toward neutral over time, and it can be interesting to watch. Fall is the best time for serious liming. Permanent pathways provide habitat for earthworms, ground beetles, etc, and give you some access regardless of the weather. For temporary access to some areas, you also can lay boards on the ground and stand on the boards. If you planned to use your wheat as a cover crop, you'll need to take it down 2-3 weeks before you need the space, or you can pull it up and let it dry into mulch, or compost it. In mild winter climates, actively growing wheat does not go down without a little bit of a fight. Back to the permanent pathways. You can sow them with legumes and well-behaved grasses, and mow them to make mulch for the beds or rows next to them. It's a cool system. Picture it -- next year, a ribbon of crimson clover laced with blue bachelor buttons leads you to your beautiful [fill in blank] and you feel so happy! Here is a link that might be useful: my website

Thanks lavender_lass. The only thing similar to the spinach i would be growing is lettuce. But I think for this year I might just grow it in a couple of pots.I think we are pretty much done with the winter weather now. For the next week the low is to get about 40°, so thats not too bad. Most of the manure is kinda flaky, and the odor is only mild. Enough to keep my "girly" 4 yo DGD away tho,lol. She was screaming over earth worms today. I havent worked it in yet, but will prob get to it this weekend. I worked on another bed that is so dry and hard I could hardly shovel it.But I loosened up some of the top layer and then tried to work in some of the manure around my hosta's, Montauk's, and Heuchera. I looked at my terraced bed full of wild onion, and just didnt have the energy to tackle it. Thats the problem with such a big bed, its just looks too daunting. I am hoping with the w/s I can get it too full for weeds. Tammy