Maybe next year, if continuing to overwinter. Suppose it might be known to lose flower buds but not vegetative buds in winters outside of its tolerance - somebody from your region may have noticed. Otherwise, if tips not dying back presumably it is overwintering OK, so far.

To determine the proper depth at planting, I'd gently dig down/flake the soil off of the top of the rootball until I got to the first root. Trees should be planted so that the highest root is approximately at ground level (in some cases with poorly draining soil, just slightly above that). Often trees and shrubs come planted at the wrong depths from the nursery. Unfortunately you can't assume that the top of the rootball is the correct planting depth. With some growers, as long as there is dirt and a plant in the pot, it's ready to sell. I will provide a link to my planting instructions below. If read carefully, I think/hope they will answer most of your planting questions. Weed barriers (the plastic and fiber stuff) will usually kill preexisting weeds and grass by cutting off their light, but they do nothing, or next to nothing, to stop seeds from germinating and growing roots down through the material. They also do nothing to control spreaders (like Bermuda grass), which also sends roots down through the material. When weeds and grass anchor themselves through the weed barrier, they can become impossible to remove without removing the entire weed barrier. I've actually done jobs where we had to remove the entire weed barrier by either cutting it into small sections and digging the whole mass of weeds, roots, and weed barrier out or use a skidsteer to scoop the mess out. Talking about a disaster! The second reason that root barriers are bad is because the repel water and nutrients and decrease soil gas exchange. All of them do this to some degree; some are worse than others. The ones that do the best job of blocking weed growth are probably the worst for blocking water, nutrient, and gasses. Another reason they are bad is because they block decomposing mulch from being mixed into the soil. Mulch can really benefit the tilth and fertilization of your soil if allowed to break down and mix into the soil. Here is a link that might be useful: Planting a Tree or Shrub

All plants go through a period of dormancy, some - like the cherries - more completely than others. Since evergreens hold their foliage all year, it is difficult to visually "see" this process, but they do experience a period of very slow or no growth as well. It is a rest period, somewhat akin to our sleeping or the hibernation period that some animals experience. With deciduous trees like the cherries, the onset of dormancy typically coincides with the change of the seasons from summer to fall - shortened day length and colder temperatures, together with the plant's specific genetics, trigger the process. Leaves change color, sometimes whither and dry and then fall off. When this happens naturally, the lack of any foliage left on the tree generally indicates the plant has entered the dormant period but full dormancy, including the cessation of root growth, often takes longer. Early November is a bit soon in most parts of the country for any deciduous tree to be in full dormancy and your trees, still being in leaf, are not quite there yet. The digging, bare rooting and shipping process is likely playing a role in their appearance as well. And while the top growth looks dead or dying, it is very likely the roots are still in growth mode. If you planted the trees correctly and promptly and have provided sufficient water (and continue to do so during any very dry periods this winter), they should be fine come spring. I am a bit curious as to why you felt the need to do mail order from across the country to obtain these trees. Unless located in very remote areas, west coast gardeners are blessed with an enormous selection of retail nurseries and garden centers, virtually all of which operate a full 12 months of the year in our very mild climates. California is a major supplier of nursery stock to much of the country and you should be able to find pretty much anything you want year round. While late fall is not a prime time for the best tree selection (most receive their fresh stock in late winter and early spring and sell down throughout the growing season), these not uncommon trees should be readily available locally and without the costs and shock associated with shipping cross country.

pic would really help .... dry shouldnt be an issue on 7 year in the ground plants ... i would wonder about frost or freeze.. since they leafed out ... where in z6? .. great variances ... how bad was your winter ... i had a z4 in my z5 ... my cherry did not take it well ... but it hasnt leafed out yet ... good.. since frost is possible tonight .. one might think.. it has to be cold event.. if all 3 are showing the problem .. for a disease to attack all 3 ...... in early spring.. seems off to me ken