Well, here are the 2 spots I've narrowed it down to. The side front yard where it would be on the WSW side of my house. The fence you see in my yard, to the left of it there's 3' more of my property. They couldn't set the fence any closer because of a power line underground. The reason I'm telling you guys this is because I'm curious to know if that would pose a problem with the tree down the line. If I were to plant it on this side of my house it would be about 3'-5' on my side of the property line, in line with the fence or chokeberry bush. Also, it would cross with the day lillies that run across the front of my house. Here's a few pictures. By the way, the small tree you see planted is a Kwazan Cherry I just planted about a month ago. Now, here's the other site I could plant it. It's on my side yard on the NE side of my house. I wouldn't get anything on the cooling end on my house but I'd get a screen from the street in the background. So there you have it for my choices. I also didn't mention that behind my neighbors house there is a small stream. It's about 200' from where the tree will be planted. I'm pretty sure that will only help this tree when it get's bigger. So there you have it. Which spot do you guys think is better? I'm also thinking about doing the planting on Saturday evening. Were supposed to get a few days break with the warm temps.

hey i am not aware of a dwarf ... probably because i have not been looking .... but i can give you some observations on the non-dwarf ... though not a poplar.. they are a very aggressive growing tree ... so i doubt you will do well in pots ... for very long... because you will outgrow it fast ... in mineral sand.. with no fert ever... and only watering for 2 years .... i would think i was/am getting 3 to4 feet per year .... no tree ever really stops growing at some magical height ... so you will never find a MAX height ... google your common name.. find the latin name... and then add ANNUAL GROWTH RATE ... and you ought to be able to learn about its potential .... but also.. if you see one listed at less than the otherwise norm.. then that will be a dwarf.. and if you can associate a name with it ... then bob's your uncle ..... in other words.. a reduced annual growth rate... is the definition of a dwarf .... from two foot tall mail order sticks 11 years ago ... most of mine are going over 30 feet tall .... why are you limiting yourself to pots .... i really dont see this huge tree.. as a friend you will be taking on your travels... lol ... IMHO .. your only option... should you insist on pots... is BONSAI .... ken ps: i wonder on bonsai ... if you would have this tiny mature tree... with a whompin big flower ... lol .... i might have to google that .... i did.. but no luck ... and then the coffee hit.. and i gave up.. WWW not moving fast enough.. lol ....

sounds kind of short.. for the size of the trunk ... the size of the root mass is irrelevant ... will your soil hold in a ball???? if not.. skip it ... start digging a 4 foot root ball ... wrap the sides in burlap ... undercut it.. and finish the burlapping... and then figure out how to lift a 2 to 3 HUNDRED root ball.. out of the hole ... in the mean time.. dig a new hole... then figure out how to drag it across the yard .... i got mine as mail order whips ... for under 10 bucks.. years ago ... frankly i dont know why you want to invest a day or two.. in supreme extensive hard labor ... in my world.. its simply not worth it ... once you get it in the new hole ... hopefully at the proper level.. because i doubt you will be able to lift it out ... backfill about half way.. flood it ... backfill the rest.. flood again ... [and i am presuming your soil will properly drain ...] .. see link for various other variables .... then mulch properly.. and be in charge of water for two years ... this would be best done.. in full dormancy.. 6 to 8 weeks before the heat of summer.. and 4 weeks prior to leaf out.... since you dont say where you are.. who knows when that is .... minutes after ground thaw... in my MI .... again ... i wouldnt waste my time ... ken Here is a link that might be useful: link

I've observed Liriodendron for decades, it's probably my favorite tree. I'd ask the same questions that Tom has, and add this: the tree looks to be under great stress, it has been pruned to remove dead wood or maybe to 'balance' the loss of roots with the top, there are more dead branches in the top of the crown, and the foliage looks undersized. I've seen forest trees exhibit these same symptoms when the area they are growing in is heavily logged or severe weather removes many cohorts. A WAG (and I hope I'm wrong), the tree will continue to decline and become stag headed. There will be many epicormic shoots from the main limbs and trunk. It will never again regain it's former glory. It will probably live on for years, maybe decades, unless removed. Unless MASSIVE amounts of the root system were removed and the tree is structurally unstable, it won't fall. Large upper crown limbs that die may, however. Old poplars (and many other old trees) do not like to be messed with.