If you are just spraying the Berryman's carb cleaner into the throat of the carb, you are mainly washing the intake manifold and intake valve. To affect a good cleaning on the carb might require removing and disassemly of the carb to get the cleaner everywhere it needs to go. Seafoam is not intended to perform an instantaneous cleaning, it is a long term cleaner and will take some time to remove what the B-12 will do in seconds (if it can get to the spot where the varnish has formed, and that means INSIDE the carb). Pour some Seafoam in the gas you already have in the tank. Run the engine a few minutes. Turn the engine off and let it cool down a while. Come back later and start it up to run a few minutes, followed by another shut down. Repeat this for a couple of days. Because the Seafoam dissolves the varnish at a slow rate, you need to give it time to work on the varnish, so no point in just running all that Seafoam right out the exhaust. If this does not seem to be producing the hope you need (after a couple days), you may be forced to pull the carb off for a major cleaning.

If you turn the PTO pulley (Engine off, spark plug wire disconnected) does that cause the deck to turn? Check that the belt has not come off the pulley on the deck. I would mark that belt and pull it all the way around. Odds are you will find a chunk of it missing. When you get a replacement belt either get the genuine Toro part or make sure it is a dry sleeve aramide reinforced type belt intended for power equipment. I fractional horse power belt from the hardware store won't last if it even works at all. Good luck

This is not unheard of, the natural design of a good belt drive system does tend to favor the drive pulley and a single direction of rotation. However, I have a bunch of Wheel Horses and mow some pretty good hills without experiencing this problem. Different years and models, some with wheel weights, etc. - none have this problem. Does your tractor have the "anti-wheely" hydraulic type dampener on the clutch (located under the belt guard) - if so remove it and see if the problem disappears. Up to you whether to replace it or leave it off. The fact that you said manually pulling up on the pedal does not improve the situation tells me something is likely limiting the travel of the clutch arm and idler pulley, not allowing sufficient tension on the belt. Did you use a Wheel Horse belt? If it is an aftermarket belt, a little too much length will still allow the engine to drive the tractor but could allow the problem you have. Check the roll pin on the left side where the short clutch actuating arm attaches to the cross shaft. I have seen this pin shear but the clutch seem to work reasonably well for a period of time due to corrosion, the joint relying simply on the friction between the parts. I'm sure you could tell the difference between a "limited" degree of free motion and full-on slippage, but you might check the keys and keyways in the drive pulley and your wheel hubs to be sure all is well there. I don't think it is likely there is any problem inside the transaxle that could cause these symptoms. Might also check for a leaking seal on the transaxle input shaft, causing gear lube to make it's way to the belt groove in the rear pulley. However, I know I have this problem on my 520-8 yet it still pulls fine and does not run away down hills. My best guess is that something is blocking full travel of the clutch arm, and if so equipped, I'd be real suspicious of that clutch dampener unit. Best of luck and let us know what you find! Ed

Deerslayer Thanks. Yes, as I would have guessed, the parts shown look identical. So that confirms there is a spring, and it works as I thought. Only $12 too. There is a small hole in the frame that I am 80% sure is where the other end of the spring connects to. Have you dealt with the above site? I may just get a generic spring, or I may go ahead and buy one from them. Need to figure out the right belt size. Shouldn't be hard once I have the spring. I'll probably drive the tractor over to the hardware store so I can verify what belt fits. Once I have one the right size I can purchase a real OPE belt the same size to have on hand when the generic belt fails. Been lucky it has been so dry as I have not had to mow more than a few times. If it had not been so dry I would have mowed again 2 weeks ago, but decided to leave it long rather than stress it. The Charger still awaits its replacement engine so the push mower has been the onlyoption. Looks like I should get the 854 mowing next week so that will be cool. I have now added a (home made) lift cable, a draw bar, and Dozer hitch to the 854. I am going to pick up a box grader blade since the scarifier will make a difference loosening the soil I need to move around. Last fall I did some grading with the dozer blade (and Charger 12) and the results were mixed. Hard to dig in and get much soil. Once I get the mower working, I'll get back to the front trip bucket. I bought one from a guy in MI he made for a cub. Originally, I planned on putting it on Secretariat (the Charger 12), but the size is more appropriate for the 854 so I am going to put it on Mr Ed instead. Actually, much of the work is done to have it work with a standard front tach-a-matic and using a piece of black pipe and the flag from my snow blower for lift. The problem is the angle is wrong so that it is always tipped down. This causes it to catch in the soil, and the tractor drives over it - as it pivots, the horse "rears up". Happens in a blink of an eye! The fix will be two fold. First I need to grand the stop that determines where the buckets rotation stop. Secondly I need some chains to stop the thing from pivoting beyond a safe point. I was working on this project when I found a mower deck for the 854 and getting that set up became a priority. Thanks again.