I wouldn't recommend putting the tree outdoors at this time as if it is in a weakened state it will die. If this is a common Chinese Elm (Ulmus Parvifolia) it can be kept as a "indoor Bonsai" during the winter and takes on a more evergreen state. I agree with organic_mrbest that Neem is the best, it not only works for killing many insects and some fungus but is a great deterrent. Best of all it 100% organic which means you don't have to worry about it harming the plant you or any pets. That what I've been using for some time now as a stand alone insect repellent. In the future though I would recommend not misting the plant with water while infected, spider mite actually like the moisture. Also if using a soap water mixture it is imperative to be sure that the soapy water does not get into the soil is this will make the problem worse. As far as what to do now I would keep the Bonsai out of direct light, placing it in a lightly shaded area until new growth starts to appear. I would also recommend putting the tree in a humidity tray (If not already) to help since its in an indoor setting. Depending on its size you could use a simple plate or go to a craft store etc.. and buy a serving tray to use. Buy some middle sized gravel (around the size of your pinky nail) to place in the tray, fill it with water and place the tree on it. Make sure the water does NOT touch the bottom of the pot though. DO NOT USE fertilizer when a tree is stressed. I usually also give the tree Trace Elements (which is different than fertilizer) when they are down, but not always necessary. You can find in some online bonsai store or possibly eBay or if you would like I have a friend who has his own buisness that sells it. Also make sure the soil dries sufficiently when you water and if possible try to keep the tree on a slightly dryer side. Hope your tree comes through and good luck. -Mike

In my experience, Aglaonemas tend to be fairly resistant to mites, so this isn't as bad as it looks. What I would do is, I'd get a paper towel, squeeze a little dishwashing liquid on it, wet it down with WARM (not hot or cold) water, and then wipe all the leaves top and bottom with the towel. Do the same thing again in a few days. If your weather forecast for the next week or so is for temperatures above 60F (including at night), I'd put it outside in a sheltered, shady spot too, but if you're expecting cold, or don't have a place to put it, or etc., then you can leave it inside. Spider mites are fairly predictable: they have certain plants they prefer to eat, and certain conditions they like. Change any part of the equation and you can discourage them. Their preferred plants are, more or less: Codiaeum variegatum (croton) Hedera helix, H. canariensis (English ivy, Algerian ivy) Schefflera actinophylla and S. arboricola (umbrella tree) Dizygotheca elegantissima (false aralia, now technically Schefflera elegantissima) Cissus rhombifolia (grape ivy) Ficus spp. (ficus tree, rubber plant, fiddle-leaf fig, long-leaf fig, Alii fig) Musa spp. (banana) Maranta spp., Calathea spp. (prayer plant) Cordyline terminalis (ti plant) If you have any of these other plants, you should check it, because the odds are good that it's got them too. They also like hot, dry conditions, with stagnant air. Raising the humidity will deter them, as will running a fan in the room or moving plants away from walls and corners. (This is why I recommend outside: outside is almost always more humid, and almost always has better airflow.) I wouldn't advise trying to cool the room so much, at least not necessarily, because Aglaonemas are touchy about cold, and can be damaged at or below about 60F. Some of the new varieties are more cold-resistant, but I don't know about 'Silver Bay' specifically. Leaves that have discolored won't come back; you may be able to save yourself some work by pulling off a few of the leaves with the biggest mite populations. But really, this isn't anything to panic about; it's one of the easier pest combinations I can think of. If it should persist after a couple wipedowns with soapy water, then you could look into neem oil, which I'm fairly certain is nontoxic to people and birds. Though it smells kinda funny.

Fluffy, spider mites are not a type of spider. They get their name from the fact that they usually create some very fine/thin web strands on the plants they are feeding upon. Spider webbing tends to be more robust and may be sticky (for obvious reasons as they use webbing to catch bugs). All spiders are "carnivores" (assuming you consider bugs as "meat" -- a more proper term would be arthropodivores). Spiders are good guys. Some mites feed on plants, some are parasites on animals and still others are predators. (If you happen to see any bright "screaming red" mites, leave them be ... they are beneficial predatory mites.) Webbing on plants -- especially outdoor webbing could be either spiders or spider mites. Unless your plants are displaying pest damage (and if you "Google" you can find images of spidermite damage) then it most likely is webbing from regular spiders. Also if you clean off the webbing and its back again the next day, most likely regular spiders. Leave them be to do their job.

Mites damage orchids quickly and quietlyoften their presence is not noticed until significant damage has occurred. Mites are visible, but their presence is easily determined by rubbing a white cloth over the area that is damaged. If mites or their eggs are present, a brownish residue will be left on the leaf. This will come off and be visible on the towel. Some spin light webs which are visible on the plant or at the base of the plant. A very good natural remedy is an oil/soap treatment. Dr. Martin Motes recommends using a light oil--such as vegetable oil. Olive oil is very heavy and could potentially damage plants. Using 2 TBS oil/gallon is sufficient, you can add a teaspoon of baking soda for a bit of antifungal. Remember to keep shaking the solution in the container to keep the oil mixed with the water. Spray thoroughly on all sides of the leaves. FOLLOW UP with a soap solution about 7 days later. Using 2 tsp/gallon of Joy or Dawn (dog shampoo is great too) not only does a number on the pests, it helps clean off the oil treatment. I actually follow up with a third treatment in another week with the same soap solution. The soap/oil mixture remedy has been shared in the past, but the University of Florida recently discounted it as the two agents act in direct opposition of each other and essentially decrease the effectiveness of the effort. Just like the TV ads say, the dishsoap is designed to cut grease (oil) in its tracks! :) AOS recommends Malathion, or Volk Oil/Sunspray for scale. Also Knox Out 2 FM or Orthene Turf, Tree and Ornamental Spray. Mites are nasty buggers to get control over. If the infestation is confined to one plant, isolate it to prevent spreading--watch for that carefully. Be careful to follow the label on preparations TO THE LETTER to avoid damage to plants. One tip for success is to make sure you do TWO treatments of your selected poison about 7-10 days apart in order to catch newly hatched pests. Submitted by Rhonda Heide