yep, aphids. If they really bother you and you have a lot of time on your hands, you can spray them off with a hard stream of water from the hose. But the leaves are small and there are a lot of them....

There is a difference between curling leaves and leaf roll b'c that latter usually appears early in the season and is the result of the root and foliage masses being out of balance, and corrects itelf as the plants mature. Lesuko, Jaune Flammee IS an heirloom tomato variety. My seeds from Norbert in France in 1992. Also, for many years I lived and gardened in Denver so know Boulder well, and the area, at least then and probably still now does not have the more serious viral diseases. What are known as the gemini tomato viruses are found much more often in the South , and now on both coasts, but primarily along the Gulf Coast. I went through the pictures again and I don't see any evidence of 2-4 D herbicide damage, but see below, and if it were I would expect other plants to be affected as well unless they were sheltered from the drift. Stupid Carolyn once Roundupped ( glyphosphate) her tomato field when preparing for a Master Gardeners group that were coming for a visit. Even got up early when no wind was blowing, but never underestimate the drift that can occur. All was well and I damaged just the bottom foliage of a few of the hundreds of plants out there, thank heavens. Lesuko, the only plant I'm not sure about is the third one down, the PL one and it could be 2-4 D damage as was mentioned above, but why just the one plant if it was a drift problem. have you used any herbicides recently or anyone nearby? Or was it a weak spindly seedling when you put it out and it looks young so maybe leaf roll, maybe leaf curl, I don't really know. But again,herbicide damages don't target just one plant, whatever the herbicide is. Carolyn

That's a really nice looking one for sure. You can tell from the yellowing leaves in the pics from last August that it had decent transplant shock. I planted my Katsura late October 2012 when it was dormant. Spring of '13 it leafed out really good but 1/3 of the leaves quickly yellowed and fell off. Mine also had a few bad sun scald marks on it with exposed heartwood. I cut a few branches off to lessen the load on the roots and it made it through that summer. Last year it did great and grew about 6-8", same thing so far this year. I haven't gotten any decent fall foliage from it yet but it's definitely a much healthier tree now. I do water it when it's dry. It's also healing over the damaged areas. Hopefully this year it will be all healed over. Anyway, Katsuras aren't for the weak at heart. Beautiful trees indeed, but as someone else said, they are not the easiest to start out. I would even expect it to take longer than the standard 3 years for these trees to start growing at their full strength.

Tropicbreezent- I've attempted at making a humidity tent out of cling wrap and some bendable wire, however I don't think it's doing much as the hydrometer next to it reads 34-40% (during the day, at night its 50-68%). I think this is because during the day we have the air con switch on whereas at night we switch it off. I've watered my PL once again today (I'm planning to do it every day till it settles). When I water, most of it gets drained out, so I'm thinking this watering schedule should be okay...hopefully no root rot. I've also covered the top of the pot with cling wrap (yeah I think I might ave gone a little overboard with it haha). My reasoning for doing this is because I noticed/read that the soil drys from top to bottom and with a coarse mix (5:1:1) this usually means the bark at the top drys out much faster than the mix around the roots. This means the dry bark would make it difficult to transfer oxygen to the roots (my understanding ??)....so by placing the plastic on top of the mix I'm hoping to retain the moisture this way till the next watering.