Thanks Ken. The plant came B & B, and we tore open the top half of the burlap (I don't think it's necessary but my husband preferred it). It was planted so that the top of the root ball was a few inches higher than the surrounding soil, with a fair amount of new topsoil because there is a lot of clay where we are. I think we've been watering it properly (about 45 minutes a day with the sprinkler) but I'd be interested to hear your definition of "proper". I'm sorry I can't post a picture but I don't have a hosting site set up. Basically just the odd leaf here and there (maybe 5% of them) is dark purply-red and curled up around its long axis. The other V. burkwoodii I planted at the same time has the same problem. Thanks again for your help. -- Lori

It could be stress, too much sun, insufficient roots for the amount of sun, overwatering, lack of acclimatization, etc. Some viruses have that as a symptom. The variety might be used to a more temperate climate. I would remove the oldest leaves of the plant if I were you (although that is experimental advice to stimulate new leaf growth, which leaves might not be as prone to curling). Maybe give it some extra potassium/phosphorus, too, to help the roots (without adding extra nitrogen, unless it's already low nitrogen). If your tomato is determinate, you may want to be more careful about removing leaves.

Rotate the plant a quarter turn daily. It is leaning towards the light so if you keep turning it, it will be exposed to the light more uniformly and therefore remain more upright. The leaf is curled because it is brand new and still unfurling. Don't water on a schedule - water when it needs it. When you do need to water next, water thoroughly so that the water runs freely out the drainage holes. Then don't water again until the top inch or so the soil is dry. And you can skip the spraying/misting - it doesn't really do anything of benefit.

No, "moistness" is just fine. Tomato seedlings need moistness. Again, what you want to avoid is mud and puddles. Commercial potting soil of any kind is fine. I just wanted to make sure this wasn't a DIY mix with possible herbicide contamination. Now, these seedlings are large enough that they'd like some fertilizer. Have you given them any? Potting soil has pretty much ZERO fertilizer, unless it says it has some added. Yes, you can start seeds in most anything, but once they're started, they need some help. A little tricky to add granular fertilizer to seedling pots, but you can proceed cautiously with that. The Dr. Earth stuff says it can be used with containers, so follow those directions. Also, "organic" fertilizer depends on microbial breakdown to supply nutrients. Sounds like this stuff comes innoculated with such microbes, but it won't happen fast. In general, anything in pots is best treated with regular chemical fertilizer, which is right-now stuff. Half-strength Miracle Gro is a good option.