The real question is how long will if be below freezing. It took multiple freezes/frosts and input from others to realize that is the critical point. It can hit 27 for a couple hours and be fine. There is still a mystery as to what the low for me was on Tues night. My therms. said 21 and 23. The official recorded low was 28. Bottom line is that my trees in leaf where subjected to below freezing temps for about 9 hours. 5' Emperor One...black leaves the next day 4' Red dragon...extremely wilted and limp leaves 2' Fireglow...black leaves the next day 7' Katsura...black leaves the next day 6' Sangu Kaku...extremely wilted and limp leaves My shirs haven't leafed out yet...no wonder so many say to stick with this species in zone 5. I've been told "most" decidious trees bounce back. However, Acer palmatum is one that can have more casualties than others.

This is a 3+ year old post.....not sure OP is still around to appreciate kind comments :-) cubbyboy, it is never a good idea to tack a new question on to the end of another post, especially one that is so old.......you may never get an answer to your question! Try posting a new message altogether. To answer your question, if well-sited and given proper growing conditions, Seiryu will get much larger than the size you have specified......about double, in fact. I'm not sure what zone you are in but colder zones will limit the size these trees achieve. That, said, trees just keep growing, as long as they are alive. Personally, I do not recommend pruning a Japanese maple to keep it to a size significantly smaller than it naturally wants to be - it destroys the growth habit and appearance. Do some more research to find a tree appropriate to your zone and size requirements.

get out the scissors ... and snip them off.. wrap them in plastic.. burn the lot.. and bag the ashes.. and drive them 60 miles from the house ... and be done with them .. the tree is gorgeous.. and way under-potted.. either get it in mother earth.. or put it in a bigger pot until the next proper planting time.. since it is most likely severely root bound.. i would probably recommend some severe root pruning.. but again.. i would do that when it is dormant.. which is the next proper planting time ... ask in the tree forum if you want some further info in that regard ... ken

Have never encountered Osmocote in a tablet form - that's a new one on me! Generally it comes in a jar with just the loose granules and I apply a small amount (1-2 Tbsp depending on container size) each spring as new growth begins. It lasts pretty much all season although I do supplement with a liquid (Dyna Gro) from time to time during the summer months as it provides a lot of the trace elements/micronutrients that Osmocote omits. I would think one tablet is sufficient for most containers. And I am not sure I really consider the development of dead wood on JM's as 'die back'. Certainly die back can occur from winter cold damage as well as disease issues but the typical dying off of small twigs and stems is a completely natural phenomenon with JM's and nothing really to be concerned about. For whatever reason, many of these smaller stems or twigs just fail to survive and you seem to see it more with the weeping dissectum types so I am guessing it has much to do with congestion and shading. There are other trees that develop a similar trait - Styrax japonica and various birches comes to mind - so this is not unique to JM's.