Another soldering iron user here! I vary on the number of holes I put in, but I usually put at least one, sometimes two, holes in each quadrant on the bottom, and four in that little trench (two in the bottom and one higher up at each end of the trench). I also put one hole on each side near the bottom. These side holes can help if the bottom gets clogged/frozen/blocked, etc. So usually at least 12 holes total, sometimes 16. Honestly, I can't give a good explanation of why sometimes I do 12, sometimes more. It's just how the mood strikes me the day I'm poking the holes, lol. By the way, I also use my soldering iron to poke a hole up on one side of the jug, at the bottom of the handle. This hole I use to poke my scissors in to start cutting around the jug. Not a ridiculous question at all! Experiment and you'll find what works best for you. Remember, it's easier later on to add more holes than try to tape up the extras! (too many holes can lead to too-dry containers). Good luck and have fun! Dee

I can't imagine why anyone would drill the faucet hole so far from the sink unless it was specifically asked for because the customer wanted to use a humongous faucet. They made a mistake and should cover what it takes to repair properly even if it requires replacing the counter, but it would be nice if you could work out something that costs them less than that. Is the faucet 6" from the side of the sink. Did you plan to have an air switch for a disposer? If you don't have a hole for an air switch already, perhaps that hole can be used for the air switch and a new one can be drilled for the faucet. I think that the only way to fill a faucet hole and make it look right is if you have something else you want to put in the hole such as an air switch.

Here's another issue we found. There seems to be some damage repaired on a seam. Here is a picture of the cabinets (two boxes here) which join to make the seam: Here's one repair bit on the upper part of the seam: And here's another: Note that these seams do not form a 90 degree angle. The seam is more pointed. The damage bits are actually flattened in making it look like a nick or jagged indentation when viewed from the side of the point/join. They claim they can fix this, but I don't see how. It's very visible as well (as one could imagine from the view of the cabinets above.)

Havent read all the replies, but enough to know that I agree with Joseph, and was going to suggest pulling the top forward if locked between two walls, or even pulling the cabinet and the top forward. A few of the dimensions on the OPs drawing has me puzzled though. 22 3/16 inch overall depth is an odd depth. More like a cultured marble or a laminate top. 21: is standard vanity depth, +1 1/2 is the standard for stone or quartz on a overlay style door. +1 inch on inset. 4 inches front space is excessive. Assuming a 21 inch vanity depth, 1 3/16 overhang, 3/4 faceframe thickness, 1 1/4 inch flange for the sink , 1/4 inch negative reveal and the front setback could've been 3.5 inches instead of 4. Notching the flange of the sink into the faceframe could gain you another 5/8 or so.. When things start to get tight with specified components, you need to get creative integrating them, as Joseph said. N Trimming the flange could accomplish the same thing. Trimming the rear flange of the sink would've allowed you to pull the faucets forward even more. Its not uncommon to have to thin down the backsplash, and even then use popup drains instead, as Worthy indicated. The problem is, when you dont have a pop up specd, it costs someone $$. If I were to give you a thought on where stuff like this goes wrong, its starts with the shop drawings. Too many times if had to deal with experienced cad operators that dont know the ins and outs of a proper install. If you look at the supplied shop drawing, it appears whoever did the shop drawing placed the sink in the center of the top, front to back. The numbers do not match up either. 22 3/16 - 4 inches should leave 18 3/16. Im of the opinion that the computer guy should start out in this work in the installation field, so he learns that not everything can be done on the computer. Some things need to be tweaked in the field in order for them to work out.. This problem starts with selections and specifications, and moves down the chain from there to where its at now. There would've been many different opportunities to make this work, but once the sink is cut you're basically stuck with compromising. $.02 For what its worth, this happens nearly every day somewhere in the country. Who ever decided vanities needed to be 21 deep? Whenever I have room, I specify a kitchen depth and height cabinet.