rachel77 - yes I've never had much luck with getting another season out of bulbs planted in containers. Usually the flowers are much smaller and fewer in number next year even if I've treated them with the best care. I agree with Patwood to get new ones. For future reference if you plant daffodils in the ground these will spread and continue to flower year after year. You do have to keep the foliage on the plants until it completely browns so the daffodils can build up energy for next years blossums. Then add a little bulb fertilizer. As an added bonus the deer don't usually eat them and squirrels/chipmunks don't dig them up. They are great for naturalizing areas where you can keep the foliage on until it browns.

Lol. I dont often get here into the forum but am a member of the American Hosta Society group in Facebook. Had to copy the question and some of the responses was to funny to not pass up. Dont worry all names where removed to protect the innocent. This was one member's suggestion to help: " don't fear, she should be able to get a good $17 boxed bra, two First Frost Hosta's and change back."

Just like to thank those who gave info on the Big Jim plant size. The plant is indeed large. I planted 2 in each 18 gallon container. Seems the Home**Depot 20 gallon rope bucket is actually 18 gallons!! These are just in plain potting mix (ProMix BX 50% and StaGreen Potting Mix 50%). They are not SWC's and the plants are HUGE!! Much larger than any of my Earth*Box pepper plants - which were planted at the same time. I water them every other day with 4 gallons of plain water -and- every 2 weeks I give them a dose of Kelp/Fish Emulsion. I will try to post pictures later this week. DL

I don't think it's necessary to buy the source book at first. With over 3,000 varieties listed in the Yearbook, which comes out not always in Feb, although that's a target date, there's plenty to chose from. And as a long time Life member of SSE I don't think SSE membership is for everyone. Don't get me wrong here, being a member helps very much to further the goal of SSE which is preservation of OP varieties . But I'd prefer to see folks join who have had some experience in growing tomatoes and that's b'c a certain percentage of seeds you request may not be pure and you need to know how to rogue out plants and you also need to know how to save seeds in terms of reoffering varieties that you might request. And while reoffering is desired, not everyone does it, unfortunately. And I agree with what jackbenny said above, in that the Yearbook should never be seen as a seed catalog. After a person has grown lots of the more common varieties offered commercially, then I think it's fine to go searching for the more rare varieties that are offered there. The other fact to note is that there are listed SSE members and non listed members and as mentioned above, listed members list their varieties in the Yearbook and those seeds are available to both listed and unlisted members but the cost/pack is higher for unlisted members. Currently, for US members the cost of a pack of tomato seeds is $2 for listed members and $3 for unlisted members. A few folks like myself ask the same price for both listed and unlisted members. So by all means if a person is interested in preserving genetic diversity I would urge anyone to join SSE if not for obtaining seed, then just for helping SSE with your membership monies. SSE has been an important part of my tomato life, as it were, LOL, and I've made many good friends through the years. I joined I think in 1989, and it's been a great experience for me. There's also a PUBLIC catalog with about 40 or so varieties that anyone can order from and the online version can be found at seedsavers.org Carolyn