Thank you all: The most extreme (by far) chlorosis I'm seeing is on the 9th leaf Freedom tree, the rest are 3rd - 4th leaf now. I'm such a dope for not getting pic.s of the chlorosis symptoms but here is what I (REMEMBER) seeing - the cluster leaves never show any, it begins following fruit set on the new shoots (only I think) and continues on the new growth up until about mid Summer then ceases on the new growth as it peters out, it starts up again around harvest time and remains until leaf fall. I realize this may have some scratching their heads, my observations and recollections have been sub par and may therefore not make much sense. The leaves on a shoot appear destined to remain chlorotic once they have formed and never recover. I'll do a very good job this year of observation and documentation if it kills me, this is embarrassing. Fruitnut: aint our soils just dandy! My math, for what it's worth. 2.8% = 0.028, an a.f.s. of soil = 2,000,000 lbs. therefore 0.028 x 2M = 56k lb. of lime in the a.f.s.. I was aiming for a foot deep so we'll go 56k x 2 = 112k lb., 112k / 2 = appx. 56 tons/A, one ft. deep. I haven't nailed down my S amt. yet to neutralize the lime but am re-thinking the 1 ft. depth to just 6 - 7" for the first year of additions. I've seen the same comments about hoplessness but some are colored by the economic costs associated with adding large amounts of S. I take your point about pH variability in different locations. I did look at a number of pics. and descriptions of apple Fe and Zn deficiency in leaves last year and couldn't separate the 2 looking at my tree(s) it was frustrating and I figured it wouldn't be all that hard to figure out, I was wrong! Well aware of chelated iron and may go that route, my first inclination has been to correct the soil pH and lime issues in that they can cause other problems as well. CSU (and others) recommend a green tip Zn SO4 spray for Zn deficiency, I may give that a whirl this Spring on one side of the tree and leave the rest alone, or do the whole darned tree. H-man: after further reflection over the past few days I agree that I'd best not go for altering the entire soil profile down to a foot this year, probably calculate and amend for the top 6" this Spring then sample 0 - 6" and 6 - 12" next late Fall to see what happened and go from there. If I recall, the wood chips and leaves release a fair amount of Ca when they break down too. I've gone back and forth over the foliar feeding but haven't tried it so far except a very small trial on the pear tree with Fe EDTA, it burned the leaf margins and the rate and drying conditions were correct. After that experience it soured me some. The N source for me is just a matter of getting the most pH lowering for my buck while adding the N, in retrospect, ammonium sulfate has the highest CaCO3 neutralizing effect of all the N ferts., DUH. I don't expect the miniscule amount of amm. sulfate added to my soil to get the N I need this year to pack much of a punch to the pH but it's a step in the right direction, S will have to do the real heavy lifting on neutralizing all that lime. My target pH is 6.5, no plans to go below that, no real reason to that I can think of, point taken. Man I'm starving, thanks again all. there was probably more to write but the stomach has my full attention now.

My 18 year old JD170 finally 'died'. Or so I told myself and my wife. :-) Actually, one of the spindles broke and everyone knows that a broken spindle can't be fixed. Right? So what's a guy to do (sob). What any guy would do -- I went and bought a brand new X300 which will be delivered in 2 days. I only cut a mostly flat 1/2 acre so the X300 is overkill but who cares! I do want to buy the snow blower attachment and figured the X300 will be excellent for that purpose. I really can't wait. By the way Jaws, the spec sheet says the X300 has the K46 transmission, not the T46. I didn't read this post until last night, so I didn't get down to look at the sticker. All the posts though just confirmed that I bought one great machine. I might bypass the RIO switch though as I didn't buy the 4WS and do back up quite a bit. My 170 still has a perfectly running Kawasaki 14HP engine and tranny. What a workhorse! I gave pause to look at the HuskVys and Cub Cadets, but my 170 made me a JD loyalist. It really gave me outstanding service and I wasn't one to take care of it much. Lacking a shed and garage space, I often left it out all year, including severe upstate NY winters. It always started right up in the spring. But rust (wonder how that happened), deteriorating bags (hmmmm), and faded paint (go figure) convinced me that it was time. Actually, the fact that my 10yo son will want to be cutting the lawn in a couple years had something to do with it. Figured I want a some time where it's just MY machine. Don't worry guys -- I promise to take care of my new machine. I'm 53, and want this machine to last me 20 years or more -- or until I get the itch for a new model, whichever comes first. JD did give me $250 for a trade-in on the 170. I might had got more for it if I wanted to fix the spindle, clean it up and put up for sale -- but that would take time away from my X300. I'll let you guys know how I like it. Who am I kidding... I'm going to Love it!

Thank-you for your replies. Very helpful!!! DavidandKasie it is very interesting what you said in reference to exchanging to a larger HP engine. You have just thrown a spanner in the works now with my thought processes:)!! lol. Back to the drawing board. I intend to purchase a trailer for said lawntractor but i have no intention of hauling heavy stuff in said trailer - just sticks mainly when i do a cleaning sweep. i.e i don't invision the trailer weight to every get over 100kg (200pounds) every - thus i do not require much 'pulling power'. I have also been warned that trying to tow too much weight may result in a blown transmission. P.S both machines are 2 bladed.

Well, first cut has taken place. The mulch kit was dealer fitted but looks different from the photos above, as there is no block on the side discharge (should I check this out with the dealer?). Having only used a 16inch push gas mower, it's quite a big change to use a fancy smancy tractor. It took several passes before I figured out the blades weren't on! It's also shown up the big dips I have on my lawn and the two holes! I must fill those up and toss in some grass seed. The plug in hose thingy worked great. I'm just thinking about smoothing out some of those tight bends in the plastic border that separates the gravel from the grass. I will have to reset some portions. Can anyone tell me what I should be aiming at when setting the plastic border height? Are all plastic borders the same? Thanks.